Rome

Monday 1st February, 1982                   fine and foggy

Left camping "Villa Camerata", about 9 a.m. and headed for Rome.  Had one stop for lunch at a service area and another for petrol.  Came all the way on the Autopista cost 11,000 lire.  Our navigator got us here quite safely again.

Well here we are in Rome - "camping Flaminio."  And surprise of surprise - Charlotte and Titus are here.  All the way along we have been enquiring re their whereabouts.  And here they are in Rome.  Have been here 10 days and ready to move on.

Joan and Ron have been here too, have left their van and Land Rover here and flown to Greece.  We found out about Ron and Joan at the gate and as John drove in to find a park.  We saw Titus's van and all jumped out on the run, leaving only John in the van.  They had spent Christmas at Elche, so we weren't too far away.  They came in for a drink after tea and we caught up on all of their travels, talked non-stop for three hours.  Early bed as they are in their 60s.

Tuesday 2nd February, 1982               frosty but sunny.

Awoke to an icebox - 5° at 8 a.m.  The whole van was iced up.  The washing stood stiffly on the line - the kids had great fun hitting them with their gloves.  We were going to Tivoli with Titus and Charlotte after lunch, so John, Sean and I went into Rome to pick up the mail.  Caught the bus to town.  John left us to go to the railway station to pick up bus tickets - one month for 7500 lire, and it is 200 lire for any bus ride.  Sean and I walked up to the Piazza de Espagna to American Express, then down to the poste restante to pick up mail.  Tony's family poster - beautiful - I was disappointed - no mail.  But we met John back at the Spanish steps and back to catch the bus.  I liked the monumental steps leading up to the church of St Trinita dei Monti with its two Cupolas  -1495.  In centre is an obelisk found in the Gardens of Sallust.  The fountain on the piazza is the Barcaccia by Bernini.  We had to leave to go home for lunch, then off on a funny afternoon, with Titus and Charlotte.  After many stops to ask the way, we arrived at the Villa d'Este where the Tivoli is.

It is a fantastic place owned by Lucretia Borgia’s son.  It is an old castle with paintings, antique furniture.  The grounds have 20 terraces with about 500 fountains, waterfalls, sprays, springs all magnificently set in the gardens.  Espaliers and hedges total 4000 m. one fountain was a bust of a woman with two sprouts out of her bosom - every fountain has a name and represents some Roman history.  We spent quite a bit of time there - the kids went mad running freely.  On the way home we called in at “Hadrian’s Villa" just nearby, where Hadrian retired after his travels - for peace and quiet.

These are only ruins now, but a great expanse of them.  We wandered all over and the only sign of life was a beautiful swan on the Lake.  Sean and Rae went back to the van.  As the cold set in, and the rest of us wandered too far and as darkness fell, we began to think we were lost - however we did find the van just as darkness fell.  

Hadrian's Villa, 

Then began the funniest trip back, we missed the turn off to the Flaminio.  Well with instructions, Titus did make it to the ring road, but we were going the wrong way so first opportunity Titus turned off, and came up on the right side.  But we got caught up in a traffic snarl.  Well the comments from our comic driver kept us laughing - about two hours later we arrived home.  Ask them in for tea so with a quick flick here and there we served up a very nice tea of spaghetti, salad and cabbage.  His reason for the traffic hold-up was, he even went a little out of traffic line - came back and said to “him 4 camels”.  To bed and sleep.

Thursday 3rd February, 1982                 cold and frosty.

Up early and off to explore Roma.  Into the Piazza di Espagna again - collected letters from Billy and Karen.  Eight pages.  Then off to Victor Emanuel 2^nd monument built in 1885-1911.  Under the statue of Roma is the tomb of the Unknown Soldier.  I liked the architecture of the monument.  We walked around behind “Piazza Venezia." the centre of Rome.  We sat on the stairs of the Capitol and had our lunch watching Rome go by.  Up the steps we found the she wolf said to succour and rear Romulus and Remus.  We could view the Forum from here, but decided to visit the fountain of Trevi - disappointed.  No water spray, so we walked over to the Coliseum - can't believe I am actually seeing all these wonders I have only read about or seen in films or TV.

This mighty amphitheatre where gladiators entertained their Emperors was begun in AD 72 and finished by Titus in AD?  It is in fair condition considering its age.

We then hopped on a bus out along the Appian Way on our way to The Catacombs of St Sebastian.  Along the Via Apia, it is said St Peter on his way from Rome met Jesus and said "domine quo vadis" and he answered.  "I am going to Rome to be crucified again" and to this day Christ footprints remain on the pavement.  When we arrived at the catacombs, Sandra and I reneged and stayed on top, where we met an Aussie from the Top Deck Traveel bus.

Home then to shop at Standa and early to bed.

Sad goodbye to Titus and Charlotte on their way to Pompeii.

Thursday 4th February, 1982                   cold but not as cold

Up again fairly early, we were as snug as bugs having prepared ourselves for a cold, cold night, jumpers, pants, socks and even berets were on in bed.  Slept like logs.  On the bus again to town and off to visit St Peter's. 

St Peter's Cathedral, Rome

We went first to the Vatican Museum, where we spent many hours.  We travelled along a long corridor where on each side there are magnificent tapestries of various stages of religion.  One - the slaying of Caesar is terrific - then into the Sistine Chapel, where we bought a thousand lire radio to hear a description of the paintings.  Wow what beautiful art. 

 

Sistine Chapel, Rome

The walls have paintings by Botticelli, Rosselli and other Italian artists telling the story of Christ and Moses.  A painting of each of the Popes is just below the roof.  Then in 1508 Julius the Pope ordered young Michelangelo to paint the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel - finished in 1512 - he had very little experience in frescoes and he proved he was an artist with the final "last judgement" behind the altar.  It was quite an awesome experience to actually be viewing.  

We spent quite some time there, then walked through the rest of the Museum.  Then around to St Peter's Square where there is a Centre stone, and from this stone the colonnades can be seen differently to anywhere else, this was devised by Bernini.  The dome of St Peter's was by Michelangelo.  Inside, the tomb of St Peter, can be found beneath the high alter - 95 lamps burn day and night.  There is a beautiful alter with Michelangelo's " Pietà" a virgin holding Jesus, it was carved when Michelangelo was in his teens.  So much to describe, I bought a book for reference.

 

Pieta, Rome

Back to finding "Frederica's" for lunch.  It was as nice but hasty, cost three dollars each. We walked then to Piazza Navona - here there are 3 magnificent fountains. The middle one is an Aesop’s fable “The Fountains of Rivers”- centre is an obelisk that used to stand in the Circus Maximus. There is a lovely church of St Agnes -  pettiness existed even in great artists - Bernini turned all his faces from the church in disdain & Rainaldi put a statue of St Agnes overlooking the fountain and turned her face away in answer to the fountain. We caught a bus down to Flaminia, Piazza and Rome.

Not so cold now, thank goodness, as Sandra is suffering badly from chilblains - at last has brought a pair of fur lined shoes - after three tries.

Before Piazza Navona we visited the Pantheon - just had time to see this magnificent building before the closing of the door.  

Pantheon, Rome

Outside is the Piazza Minerva where Bernini set an obelisk on the back of an elephant.  The Pantheon was built in 27 BC as the temple of Agrippa.  The dome has an opening to the sky.  Victor Emanuel 2^nd is buried here.

Friday 5th February, 1982                          cold and fine

A rest day today, so we stayed in bed for awhile, John up and off to town early.  Rae and I decided to go into town and get the mail and ring home.

Sunny day, Sandra and Sean having a cleanup of van.  We had a nice day, caught slow bus to Centro, walked up, received mail from Billy and two from Nanna Marsden then off around to ring up.  Cost 26,740 lire about $19 but we had seven minutes and 38 seconds.  Great to hear Kevin and Karen's voices and all are well.  Christmas parcel has arrived, so am happy.  We had a cappuccino, not so good either.  Found a toilet, then strolled streets working way down to bus stop.  A long wait for bus, hopped off 1 km from camp and brought some carnations for van.  300 lire each, walked home.  Had lunch and writing, answering mail.

John spent his free day wandering town.  Came home exhausted and was met by a keen son - promised a drink at the bar - off they went for one drink and came home at 1 a.m.  Time flew talking to Roberto, an attorney and married to an Australian, Steve and Tim, the refugees from England.

Saturday 6th February, 1982                        cold and overcast

Awoke about 8 a.m. ready, willing and able to explore Rome a little more.  We covered a few kilometres today - approximately 9 on foot, fast bus and tram mileage.  Into American Express at Piazza di Espagna for mail and money and a cappuccino and then off up to the Via Veneto to view shops on the way to Immaculate Conception Church - not open - so went looking for food to put on bread and butter, a long walk up to Standa then on the tram and out to see the pyramid.  Had lunch sitting on half a bench - cheese, mustard and olives.  Had a coffee - then Sean led us up to the Priory of the Knights of Malta where you can look through a keyhole and view three nations, Malta, Italy and the Vatican - a long avenue of trees through to St Peter's dome.

We walked down to Circus Maximus, where we quickly traversed the course as it is a well-known homosexual pickup - being Saturday, the male force were out in full.  

Spanish Steps, Rome

Down past the Colosseum - up those steps to the Via Nationale - window shopped whilst on way back to the church to view the cemetery of the Capuchins and you would have to see it to believe it.  

Cemetery of Capuchins, Rome

The cemetery contains 4000 religious who died in Jerusalem from 1528-1870.  All the parts of the skeletons have been patterned in six compartments - incredible, there were skulls, femurs - you name a bone of the body and it was there by the hundreds, forming patterns.  Entrance was by donation and Sean said he felt like giving them a chuck.  Glad to be out and on our way across town to the Via Uffizi to Gialletes for a famous ice cream - and well worth the trip.  Then back down to the Via del Corso and then walked along the sidewalk to the Piazza Del Popolo for the bus ride home.  Tired exhausted we made it home ate and bed.

Sunday 7th February, 1982                  fine but cold

Slept in a little as we were so tired after a long ambulatory day.  Up and off to St Peter's - Sean would have had us there at 8 a.m. but we had plenty of time.  Arrived about 11:15 a.m. and the Square was slowly filling up - there were people everywhere.  We took up a position early where we could obtain a good view only to find about five minutes to go, we were looking the wrong way and at the wrong window.  Rachelle raced up to a Red Cross man and found out where, so we strolled towards the obelisk and had a good view - a little Italian woman spoke to me.  Found out she was 80 - there were people from all nations besides the locals all excited about seeing the Pope.

We had our rosary beads and medals ready for his blessing.  At midday - about 11:55 a.m.-red carpet was dropped from the open windows then at midday he came in to view, a small figure way up 4 stories away but his message was transmitted to the thousands in the square.

We gather he was sending a message of peace.  He then blessed us all with a holy Mary, an Our Father and Glory be in Latin, so we had beads etc ready to send the kids.  What an experience, to really be here to see and hear him Papa Giovanni Paola the second.  These men were selling Vatican coins and it was funny - one minute it was “Poppa’s coins" then as we approached it was "the Pope's coins"

We left the Square and caught a bus to an unknown place but it gave us a lovely view of Rome from one of the seven Hills - Sean, our guide wasn't feeling well, so John put us on another bus and we found our destination, "La Canonica " at the via della Palgia - a fantastic Italian restaurant.  The kids had Spaghetti alla Carbonara (egg and bacon) John, Fettuccine alle Vognole Veraci (with clams) and we all had Saltimbocca Romana with salad.  Beautiful with Bianco vino and John a red.  They brought us complementary liqueur Amoretto an almond one and Sambucca licorice - beautiful - slated we left - caught bus back to the Via Flaminia to catch the bus home. Sandra and John stayed in town to walk off large lunch.  Sean went straight to bed, Rae and I showered.  I had a conversation with the little boys here - Frank who can speak five languages, others only Italian though one little fellow Mark?  Had tea-time T-shirt.

Monday 8th February, 1982                fine and overcast

Up reasonably early awakened by three mice creeping out for a coffee in the bar.  Into town to visit the Forum.  We walked along the Via Sacre where every Roman walked.  

Forum, Rome

Forum, Rome

We stood beneath the arch of Titus, that recalls the conquest of Jerusalem - passed the ruins of Basilica of Maxentius - admired the temple of Antonius and Faustina.  We lunched in the house of the Vestal Virgins.  The virgins were holy women especially chosen but if they broke their vow of chastity they were buried alive with a piece of bread and a candle.

If you listened you could almost hear Anthony's "friends Romans countryman lend me your ears.  I came to bury Caesar." where Caesar died.  Turned our backs to the Forum and headed for American Express and Poste Restante and home.  Received a letter from Libby.  Sean one from Brett.  Sandra and John stayed in town so the kids and I had food of our choice.  Ron and Joan Russell back from Greece, dying to tell us their adventures.

A funny incident on way home - an accident at cross intersection - well just about everyone got off the bus walked down to have a look and then hopped on the bus when it came to intersection and barged its way across.  A police car was involved with the bus - there were policemen everywhere trying to clear the banked up traffic and move the spectators on.

Sandra and John arrived home with a nice frock, slacks, bag and jumper about 10 p.m. so they were tired.

Tuesday 9th February, 1982                  fine and sunny

Off to shop today, not sightseeing.  Rae, Sandra and I went one way - boys the other.  They are going to investigate ways and means of going to Greece - no boats from Ancona in the winter so there is only flying or Brindisi and that's out.  We walked along Via del Corso looking and trying - I found the suit I wanted, bought it and found another one for 29,000 lire which came to 95,900 lire or $67.  They will do me for another 20 years.  Couldn't find any boots.  Sandra brought a nice skirt and Rae 2 skirts, 2 harem pants and a jumper, and roller skates.

We ate a lunch at our usual cafe in Piazza de Espagna - treated ourselves to a sit down as there are just no places to sit in Rome - not even in bars.  We had our supposedly chicken salad - turned out to be chicken mixed in mayonnaise - too much for Sandra and I to take so asked for a plate of green salad - red and green cabbage so it wasn't too bad.

It was funny trying on clothes - we think the sales girls are on commission they really hustle you.  Had huge size pair of pants on Rae trying to pull them in saying "in Italy the girls are fatter".

We did our grocery shopping on the way home, over to Joan and Ron's caravan to hear about their trip to Greece.

Wednesday 10th February, 1982              cool but sunny

Lazy morning - boys were to help Ron change his caravan tyres so we dragged ourselves out of bed and breakfast.  Rest day, so we washed and cleaned the van - visit from Ron after -boys left for town to enquire re Greece.  After lunch Rae and I went into town -Trevi Fountain was working so we threw a coin in.  

Trevi Fountain, Rome

Did a bit of shopping and home.  John received a telegram from Robert Fellowes re truck - so we may go home earlier than usual.  At the least back to England earlier.

As at this moment, we are off to Pompeii for four days then back to catch a plane on Tuesday or Wednesday to Greece.  No mail today.

Thursday 11th February, 1982                 fine and sunny

Slept in till 9:30 a.m.  Rome is very tiring, with no place to sit down not even in bars.  Decided to go for a bus ride.  Met Sean and had lunch in town.  Sandra and Rae are suffering from sore throat and colds so we all left them to their own devices.  Some funny things seen today.  

Firstly the Post Office truck with the police car in front and one behind and an overweight fellow with a machine gun guiding it into park.  There was a traffic hold-up so everyone seemed tense, horns were blowing.  We had lunch in our favourite restaurant, this time at the self-service.  11,000 lire and very nice - Sean had beef casserole and spaghetti, I had cold pork and salad - down stairs to coffee, then off to Australia House to read the news.  It was like trying to get into the Bank of England.  Finally bullet proof doors had to be unlocked from inside, then through another bullet-proof locked door - was good to read papers even if they were a week old.  Caught the tram down to the bus stop at Via Flaminia then out to the dry cleaners - to pick up Sandra's coat.  Sandra had sent Sean in with it earlier on his own - he had fun putting it in and we had fun trying to get it out no avail -10 a.m. in the morning - we are off to Pompeii?  Then home to a nice tea and bed.  The ailing are still feeling lousy.  Off to Pompeii with Ron and Joan Russell in convoy in a.m.

Into Italy and onto Rome

Wednesday 27th January, 1982                fine and overcast.

Hello, Italy.  Here we come.  

At last we are psyched up enough to cross the frontier into Italy.  Firstly we went looking for showers, but they wouldn't let us have one down at the Marina.  So we said "Fare thee well France - you are up to your usual style".

We didn't really find the French Nationals extremely friendly and co-operative.  Sean enjoyed their cheeses, we like the baguettes and the weather was kind.

At the border, the Italian guard was very nice - no trouble - had to ask for a stamp on our visas.  Then off into Ventimiglia.  We couldn't find a Park so on to Bordighera, where we changed our money - one dollar equals 1360 lire - very interesting!

On then through San Remo -a holiday resort.  Filled with geriatrics in fur coats and male overcoats straight from Pierre Cardin.  Stopped for lunch, then on to "camping Rosa" at the Diano Marina.

From Mentone to here gardens abound with flowers.  It is the flower centre of the Italian Riviera -very beautiful with the coastline.  Have spent two hours washing out clothes as we haven't had the machine since Perpignan!  Yes!

Is raining and windy so we snuggle down to a good sleep.  John off to explore town.

Thursday 28th January, 1982                   cold and windy.

Promise of a nice day.  Up after a good night’s sleep, despite the booming of the town clock - the wind and the trains passing by.  Sean, Rae and I went up to the village of Diano Marina whilst Sandra cleaned the van.  Brought the clown doll I have wanted since seeing them in Germany - cost 11,800 lire.  About $8.75 Australian.

San Remo, Italy

We did some shopping, had fun, first Italian confrontation with us foreigners.  Had a funny experience on Bridge along the coast, men repairing road - one lane open - but 2 go lights, so traffic had to back and let us through.

Along the coast to Alessio where we found a beaut restaurant to have our first Italian pizza lunch.  "La Forcia", where we had anti-pasta of unknown quality - t’was a grand octopus -Sandra's choice.  We all had a four seasons pizza - beautiful and cappuccino coffee, bread sticks and bread - cost 52,000 lire, including a bottle of wine and mineral water.

Spent ages in there eating and talking - we were ready for siesta when we emerged.  The kids lay down on double bed and had a sleep, whilst we continued on through Varigotti, Varazzie to Pegli outside of Genoa.  On leaving, the promenade we ran into trouble with traffic and all these people started to guide us through.  We have found the people very nice to date.

Had fun buying cheese at an Alimeintatia - wanted her un quatro - couldn't get through.  100 g = C’etto - a lesson learned!

We are settled in the camp, which was difficult to reach.  It was up this narrow one-way street.  "Villa Doria camping Pegli." 

Friday 29th January, 1982           fine and cool.

Left Genoa after driving through Pegli - a huge suburb of Genoa - John drove along the port.  Genoa is the biggest port in Italy.  We saw all these ships lined up along the coastline - up on to the coast road.  All the men in the cities look straight out of the "untouchables" with their fur collared overcoats and gloves.

We were low on petrol, so we pulled up at a self service station, and you had to put a 1,000 lire note in or a 500 lire note.  We stopped at Rapallo to buy a little food and eat.  We nearly died, as when we rounded the corner on to the promenade to look for a Park, the promenade was covered with old people - they were everywhere.  Just strolling in their fur coats.  Needless to say we couldn't find a park.  So headed out a little and parked on the side of the road.

After lunch we were off again on the Autopista to Carrara.  It costs 4000 lire.  Carrara is a marvellous town.  Great pieces line the side of the road and up the mountains you can see beneath the snow topped mountains.  The white sides glistened in the sunlight.  

We drove around and then off to Massa to park but to no avail.  Massa Rossa was miles away, so we drove towards the coast to find a camp.  Only one at $16, so we decided to free park - had tea in a deserted service station then decided to drive into Pisa 8 km away.  The leaning Tower and its churches look terrific in the moonlight.  We camped and will be up early to view it in the morning.

We found a supermarket at Massa, so as we haven't found a super since France.  We were excited - I picked up a piece of pottery and down came the pile.  Oh boy, how embarrassing -we filled up the larder so cheap - cost us $28, and we bought wine, chicken, yoghurt, cheese, and so much more.

Saturday 30th January, 1982

Happy birthday Billy, Matthew and Luke.

Sean just came in from buying some wrapping paper; he received 1000 lire, 50 lire, 10 lire and the lolly in change.  Up earlier than usual because we were in a one-way street back to front so that John could drive to park  near the “Piazza del Miracoli” so we can see the Leaning Tower first thing.  We had breakfast in the car park, then whilst Nan sat on the Porta Potti and stunk us out we went and looked at some souvenir shops.  (This red part was written by Sean or Rachelle).  That isn't exactly what I was going to write, but it's the truth in a kind of sort of way.

John, Sean, Rae and I walked around to see it and it is incredible.  Can't believe I am actually seeing the Tower.  It is the second wonder of the world, I have seen.  Set in a scene with the Cathedral, Baptistery and Camposanto so beautifully set off in a lawn setting.

Leaning Tower of Pisa, Italy

The Cathedral was begun in 1064, the leaning Tower begun in 1174 and finished 99 years later.  It is 55.863 m high - eight floors and 294 steps.  Foundations 3 m deep, and it is leaning 4-5 m. it leans 1 mm every year.

On top is the Bell tower, built straight and baptistery was built in 1152 and finished 300 years later, and Camposanto begun in 1277.  We spent quite some time there - Rae, Sean and John made it to the Bell tower.  But I resigned at the seventh floor.  Wonderful views of the city of Pisa.

On the way we stopped at a small place to post some mail.  Well, did I have fun - they didn't have any stamps to fit the letter.  So had to put on very small denominations - covered the letters, then came the cards - well one hour later I was out.  They were very helpful, though.

Stopped at Ponti i Egola for lunch in the park.  Found some potable water, and we filled jugs, bottles etc.  We are an enigma on this road - everyone looks and waves.  Arrived in Florence and are settled in camping Socio, about 15 minutes by bus.  Washed clothes etc.  Sandra and John have gone into town to view situation.  They have just arrived back with great stories of buying.  Sandra brought a pair of suede shoes 19,000 lire about $14, lovely tapestry 40,000 lire.

Sunday 31st January, 1982                       fine but cold.

Up leisurely and into town by bus to view Florence.  No one wants to take your bus fare in Florence.  We walked to the "Piazza del Duomo” to see the lovely Cathedral, built in 1290.  It is really beautiful - the carvings on doors and outside walls are terrific.  

Florence, Italy

Beside the Bell tower stands majestically.  The Cathedral, baptistery and Grottoes and Bell tower are all complementary of each other.  We went to mass - singing - only half an hour.  Very nice.  I brought a book which has the Duomo and all buildings of Florence - left the Piazza del Duomo and walked to Piazza della Signorina, where we saw a copy of Michelangelo's David plus many other famous sculptures.  We visited Palazzo Vecchio where many great paintings hang, Botticelli's and Michelangelo’s among them.

Then back to have lunch at a self-service - not terribly impressive - the chicken was nice, but all else?  Costs 7000 lire for me.  Then we walked down side streets, found a nice shop and bought the famous Florence ice cream - lucky it's not everywhere we would all put on weight -found Piazza Santa Croce, and then decided to head for the camp. 

Rialto Bridge, Florence, Italy

We left John in town and caught the bus home.  We are all tired and uptight at the moment.  Sandra isn't enjoying Italy, but usually it takes a while to settle down in a new country.  Into Rome tomorrow and mail.  That will brighten us up.  We haven't seen sunshine since we left the coast.

Have had pain in chest lately - acute indigestion?

 

Ventimiglia to Rome, Italy

Cannes to Italy

Sunday 24th January, 1982                     fine and cold.

Camping in the Street in Cannes

A restless night, not the quietest of streets.  Rose about 8:30 a.m., and when John returned from his early morning walk with news of the town we decided to go to mass after breakfast.  Walked up the small narrow streets to the tune of the bells calling everyone to devotions.  Stopped at the market on the way to buy tomatoes, 1F.20 a kilo and wandered through rows and rows of spring flowers, then off up many steps to the church.  Nice church - lovely service - then out to find John and kids waiting, so off on our way to Grasse - the perfume centre - a good road took us up the mountains to "la Parfumerie Fragonard"  for a tour.

We learnt it takes 1 tonne of blossoms to make 1 kg of essence.  Sandra learnt that soap is made from Whales fat (never going to wash again) - was a quick tour, but interesting - bought five cakes of French soap for presents - we all smelled like spring when we came out.

Back into Cannes to the beach front for lunch, then around the beach drive to Cap-d’Antibes of Robbins fame.  And then to Antibes - these are holiday resorts similar to Church Point - lovely homes on the waterfront.  It is a beautifully sunny day - cool but pleasant.  The spring flowers are lining streets and gardens now.  From St Maxime onwards, we have noticed the pansies and flowers.  Eucalyptus trees again in evidence here.  At the market we saw Australian wattle for sale per bunch.? Would be pleased.

We are now at a Marina in Antibes to free Park for night about 11 p.m.

Monday 25th January, 1982                     fine and cool.

Free camping on the Antibes Marina.

I woke early ready to find hot showers open, oh boy, what a luxury.  Cost five francs but worth every minute.  John did some filming whilst Sandra drove.  The day before we saw a lady in a wheelchair, taking her dog for a walk, well San took John for a walk.  He filmed while Sandra drove. Off up the winding coast road on our way to Nice.  Through La Siesta, C‘Agnes du Mer and at Pont St Laurent we noticed gypsies in their luxurious caravans, Mercedes-Benz cars, fur coats etc on the side of the road.  Stopped at a super 3000 to fill our larder - a huge supermarket with Nouvelles Galleries and lots of specialty stores.

In to Nice along the promenade "Promenade Anglais's" till we found American Express - our usual luck too late - gone to lunch - so we set up our lunch, parked in the promenade - supplied the strollers with lunchtime entertainment.  An Australian/Frenchman stopped by the van - he was from Mount Isa and was on holidays visiting Nice, his birth town.  2 p.m. found us waiting for doors to be opened at American Express - good mail drop - 2 from Karen, one from Billy and one each from John Romeril and Beth Kennedy, with her marvellous news re Lucy Kate.

We stayed the night in Beaulieu sur Mer Marina. A good hot shower with needle like rose for 1 franc.  We had met 4 young Aussies in American express.  One young girl was from Mona Vale - the newsagent’s daughter.  They were all from Sydney.

Rae received two letters from Jenny, Sandra one from Jenny Watson, Jan and Marie and Marsdens.  All were pleased but Sean - but Marie explained how mixed up she was in geography.  A hot shower and into bed after writing a few last French letters.

Tuesday 26th January, 1982                     fine and mild.

Up about 8 a.m. after a good sleep - had another needle sharp shower - beautiful!  On then to Monaco.  On the way here we noticed houses way up on the hill with the only access a monorail straight up.  Coastline is very winding - the Med - very blue and quiet.  On through Cap d'Ail to Monaco.  

Monaco

We found a Park in the Marina with Prince Rainier's yacht nearby, and explored the 180 ha - it is very hilly - three towns built on different levels.  

Monte Carlo up many stairs on the left.  La Condamine  the port area and Monaco the Palace - an impressive pink plain stone building on right head land. 

We sent our mail so all would have a Monte Carlo stamp - then sat outside a cafe, and had our morning cafe au lait.  Then back to van for lunch, and to rinse some undies.  We haven't any clean, not having had a camp since Mus.  Was hanging undies on a little mini line when the police doing their lap of the Marina stopped and said we could lunch but couldn't stay after 7 p.m.  Well, we knew that but we had met people who had stayed, but mostly in unobtrusive Volkswagens.  Our Advanturar is far too big.  John brought Sean back a letter from Brett.  So he was happy, said I had some but they wouldn't give it to him. So up Sandra, Rae and I marched at 2 p.m.  Up stairs and hills - to receive a newsy letter from Eileen.

Did a little shopping.  Then off to Mentone where we are now to stay the night - then tomorrow into Italy.  Buongiorno Italia - au revoir Francais.  Rachelle is a lady today.

Cannes to Menton, France

Perpignan to St Tropez, France

Wednesday 20th January, 1982                fine and sunny

John rose early and put out the washing, a bit of luck it will dry enough to get on our way.  The camp site is incredible - no hot water and squat toilets.  It is a permanent camp.  So we were only tolerated - but we were allowed to put our washing out to dry, thank goodness.

After breakfast we clean the van inside and out, have lunch and on the road by 12:30 p.m., with most of the washing dry.  Drove through Narbonne and Beziers on to Agde, where we tried to find a hot shower, but no luck - out to the Port Richelieu, back into town and free camping in a car park beside the river. 

A lick and a promise tonight!!

Thursday 21st January, 1982                    sunny and crisp.

We survived the night okay, slept for some hours at a time which is unusual when free camping.  Was disturbed by the chimes of Big Ben au France.  We arose about eight - John came back with the info of a market around the corner - a place Sandra had suggested we parked for the night.  But as it was on an incline we camped by the river.  Just as well, we could have been sold before we woke up, as the Frenchies usually commence their markets early.

Took photos of a minicar and mini horses.  Walked around the markets, tried the phones -  no go and found a dry food shop and bought 2 kg of bran 43 francs about $.48 - the only trouble was where to store it.  Convert a bucket with a lid as we had no bran container, and then we were on our way.  

Passed through Sete, a large small ship Harbour and on to Le Grande Motte, a rich man's resort, with the most unusual architecture like something out of the future, huge concrete buildings, with unusual windows, roofs and wings.  John got lost and took a while to get on to the highway again.  On then to Porte Camargue; all with their beautiful yachts.  Whilst in this Camargue-Languedoc area, we made a tape for Tony and Karen, much nonsense and laughter.  This area is noted for its pink flamingos and white Camargue horses.  It is on the Rhone River.

We lunched in the grounds of the giant Casino hypermarket.  It was monstrous, the casino I mean, not the lunch.

In the PM we visited Aiges Mortes a walled city built in the year 1248 - we walked around the city. It functions just as the village today with a square, homes and shops.  Wine seems to be one of the major products of this area, also salt.  Huge mounds of salt lined up side-by-side beyond salt beds.

Aiges Mortes, France

On over good roads to Mus, where we have all had a lovely hot shower.  Slept well.

Friday 22nd January, 1982                       fine and sunny.

Awoke to a lovely fine day.  I had washed the night before, and they were nearly all dry.  We can't get over the weather - cold in the morning and lovely during the day - chilly at p.m.  A little camp manager put it over us for three francs.  We told John not to feed him good wine - he would think we were Rich Aussies.

Pont du Gard, France

Off on the good roads to Ponte du Gard - a fantastic Roman viaduct 275 m long and 48 m high.  We all walked across. It is a marvellous work. 

We left there and continued to Avignon - a walled city, where the Pope's lived from 1309 until 1376.  We didn't go inside, but it looks as if they lived in opulent splendour.  Modern city has been constructed side by side with the old.  We lunched in the car park.  Saw a real modern toilet.  It will give you music while you wee.

Back on the road to Aix-en-Provence,  through flat Vineyard country.  Coming along one nice straight road, I waved to this fellow, he blew his horn and passed us - then flagged John down and introduced himself - an American with an Australian wife? Gave John a present with fast talking, and before we could say Jack Spratt had given John all these clothes and said now I want money for a bottle of champagne - no said Sandra and hoisted all the gear back to him and he drove away as cross as could be.

We found the "camping Chanticler.", and then caught bus into town, three Franc ride, walked around saw a demonstration, police and Sirens everywhere, had tea at a Quick hamburger joint.  The boys and Rachel had a crepe, while waiting for the bus.  Sandra brought Rachel her first bra tonight at Monoprix - our little girl is growing up into a 34A. looks good too.  Home to hot showers and writing, then bed.

Whilst in town we ran into a demonstration and police were whizzing around with three police cars and bikes.  We saw 12 at once.  Aix looked a nice town, but we must press on.

Saturday 23rd January, 1982                    fine but icy.

Woke to a heavy frost - very cold, nice when the sun came out, a little later.  On to the highway which was quite a good one, and on through Maximin and to turn off to St Tropez.  Dreadful winding way over the mountains on a narrow bumpy road, who the heck traverses this road to be trendy and visit St Tropez.  At last, through Le Gard Friemet and Grimard to St Tropez, which was a big big disappointment - we lunched in our usual spot - the casino car park, then into St Tropez - what a dull, grotty town. 

Saint Tropez, France

Even John was disappointed, and we travelled miles along a narrow road, and still didn't find the beach.  Returned to highway and off to Porte Grimaud which was supposed to be built like an untouched Italian fishing village.  Another disappointment!  St Maxime along the coast was lovely - clean and nice buildings and a nice town.  On then over the mountains to Frejus where Sean photographed a glider pilot with an engine going over the supermarket.  On then over revolting highway to Mandaleux and into Cannes.  To find a decent free camp, that is the problem.  At the moment we’re parked outside a hotel.

I took Rae to a toilet in the Park.  It was closed - all except the urinal, and we think we ran into a drug drop.  It was weird - all these men standing around pretending to use the pissoir.  Even John wouldn't use it.  Here the men and women all use the same toilets.

Friday night was very cold.  So we have to put our winter clothes to the fore.

Perpignan to Saint-Tropez, France

Barcelona to France

Monday 18th January, 1982                     raining but mild.

Awoke to the resumption of takeoffs.  Hot showered and headed for the super Mercado "Carrefour" to stock up on food.  3400 pesetas for so much, plus four bottles of Romeral plus one bottle of red and one bottle of brandy.  Butter 491 pesetas - 1 kg of yoghurt 22 pesetas, fruit and veggies cheap.  Then into the city to find a Park - impossible and petrol is low.  So here we are parked in the street.  Traffic buzzing by.  Sean and John caught a taxi in to Correous for mail.

They have just arrived back from a hectic trip in. There was no mail for us -2 for John.  Cost them $10 in taxi fares - couldn't tell the driver the name of the street for return journey.  Anyway on the road after lunch, along the Autopista for a few kilometres.  And out to the coast.  Left the coast road and headed for Girona and arrived at transit camping at Figueres about 5:30 p.m. very tired - John does a good job driving.  It was a long drive today.  It's goodbye Costa Brava tomorrow.

Camping El Freoca is only a transit camp but handy to the town and reasonably clean.  We walked into town after tea - through the square and up to a bar.  Had a cafe con Leche, and as we were about to leave, it started to rain again and didn't it rain - the streets were like rivers.  When it eased we started off, leaving Sean and John behind for another brandy and coffee.  We were quite wet by the time we made it back to the camp.  Being on the hill it was like walking up a river bed.

Tuesday 19th January, 1982                     overcast

Left the van and washing at el Freoca and walked into town to see Salvador Dali Art Gallery.  It is a surrealist Gallery.  The square out front was incredible - these monstrosities called art.  A tall column with old TVs and a head on top - columns of old tyres - he sure is a way out artist.  The kids had hysterics - Sean’s wry wit was well to the fore. 

He may have been a great artist had he not been a bower bird to collect wash basins, tyres, spoons and old cars and made them into a mass of junk.  He certainly inspired a debate back home.

Packed up and on to the Autopista and on our way to Perpignan in France - arrived about 4 p.m. after an uneventful crossing of the Pyrenees and the border from Spain.  Found a laundromat and commandeered three machines to catch up on our backlog - due to the rain.  Spent three hours there, but only dried the towels and pillow cases.  Found a camp in town after having tea in the Park, off a line of peak hour traffic.  The odours from our van must have stimulated some driver’s taste buds.

Barcelona/Figueres is Catalonia country.  They have their own flags on their products, and even their own spelling - a breakaway like the other side of Spain-the Basques.  The Gardia Civil were in evidence more than any town we have visited.  We are rather sad to leave Spain - had a lovely 40 days - love the people, weather and the country.  Bye Spain hello France.

Barcelona to Perpignan, France

Javea to Barcelona, Spain

Wednesday 13th January, 1982                overcast but fine.

Whilst preparing to leave the camp, Brian and Trudy arrived, excited over our having been - so we followed them over this mountain road back to Javea - phew what scenery but steep - cuts off kilometres to Javea.  Viewed the situation again re van but couldn't proceed beyond the well.  Parked van in town and went to market for roasted chicken, salad and walked the kilometre to Trudy's, where we seemed to feast all day - till late in the evening when we went for a walk, ending up at a bar in Javea.  A lovely Spanish village.  Brian took us on a tour of the town, before we succumbed to a refresher.  Back through lanes to house where Sean and I had the luxury of sleeping in the spare room on straight beds and no movement - after Sean pulled my bed closer to his.  Brian and Trudy are renting a lovely little villa, has orange trees around -  it’s all white with a mushroom chimney, which wasn't A1 at drawing.  So we all suffered smoke inhalation, sometime during the evening.

Thursday 14th January, 1982                   overcast and cool

Beautiful nights sleep, despite wind and rain.  Sandra, Rae & John came up for breakfast about 9 a.m., woke Sean and I with their noise.  Brian had had his car serviced by an Englishman.  So John decided to have it done here if possible, after all the problems Sylvia and John had with the Spanish and Portuguese.  So he booked in for 10 a.m..  We went to the travelling market while away the a.m. Met Brian and Trudy and adjourned to a bar for lunch.  "The imperial", where we whiled away another three hours over Tapas and Tortillas, mineral water and con leches. 

Bar Imperial, Javea

We walked home to Brian and Trudy's whilst John went for the car.  Spent a pleasant afternoon reading, knitting and talking.  Trudy went off to do some more painting.  She has finished 4 and wants to start hawking them in the bars.  Had a visit from Leslie and Mike and their daughter Lisa.  Australians who are returning on Monday after 2 1/2 years absence.  Trudy has captured the image of the fincas (abandon ones) on her paper.

We had tea, and later all clattered down through dark stone hedged lanes to the van.  John pleased with service $65 - up said goodbyes and on way to Valencia.

Friday 15th January, 1982                       cold overcast.

On the road by 10 a.m.  Sandra had to buy one more ball of wool for her cardigan.  It is Ardiller Jogging - a chenille wool made in Spain - will look great when finished.  She is still pale despite the course of iron tablets.  On through Gardia, Oliva Cullera to el Saler, where we are camped at camping Valencia.  El Saler, exceptional camping area. 

Modern toilets, showers and hot water - nice people.  Had lunch in between boys running back and forth to bus stop to Valencia.  Gave up and spent afternoon in a bar.  Sean, Rae and John caught the 4 p.m. bus into town, but were home by 7 p.m.  Whilst writing to Karen and Tony, a Spaniard bought me a drink and had a talk.  To bed reasonably early.

Saturday 16th January, 1982                    fog and crisp.

Up about 8:30a.m, showered again, and on our way, sad goodbye to all that hot water. Stop on the Autopista a few kilometres out of town.  The alternative highway isn't a good surface.  Through orange groves, rice fields, we wound our way towards Castellon.  Stopped to buy oranges and mandarins from side stall - 6 kg of each for 500 pesetas.  On through Segunda lunched at Playa de Moro de Gos, on through Torre Blanca and Beni Casem, and then to Montroig, where we couldn't find an open camp.  Tried Cambrells - no luck so here we are outside a hostel to free camp.  Had a vino Blanco in the bar.

Sean is having fun with his pay.  All along the Costa del Sol, he found pinnies.  Now in Costa del Azahar and the Costa de Dorada.  He is still playing havoc with his pocket money.

Sunday 17th January, 1982                      wet and cold.

Well, what a night outside Don Juan restaurant/hostel/bingo hall/ all nighter.  After tea we began our battle of the van again playing 500.  Sean and I won two games to one, then settled down for the night - then the activity began.  Cars swooping in, music and about 11 p.m., the bingo numbers came out of the clear night - loud and monotonous.  Large trucks pulled up, kids made noises and still the bingo numbers.  About 3:30 a.m. the bingo finished, and we dozed in between the trucks and people going home. 

Monday 18th January, 1982

Awoke about 8 a.m.- washed out.  Used the bar toilets to clean up.  Then on the road.

Along the breach front through Tarragona, Villeneuve.  Along the coastal mountain road that had us all holding our breath.  Raining all the time and on then to Barcelona and a hassle to find a caravan Park.

Plenty of them, but either too dear or dirty.  We are camped at "el Toro Bravo", 11 km from Barcelona. 

Camping at Barcelona 

Plenty of hot water - a long walk to bus along the riverside and site right on beach, and it's still raining.

We tempted fate and did some washing, oh for a washing machine and dryer.  Had another round of battle of the van.  Sandra and John won the only game and to bed - to listen to the jets taking off to all parts of the world from the airport.  Thank goodness for the curfew, and we all went to sleep.

Javea to Barcelona, Spain