Estepona to Benidorm, Spain

Saturday, 2nd January, 1982                fine and warm

Goodbye Chimenea.

 Awoke at 9 a.m. to a beautiful warm day, prepared to tear ourselves away from Chimenea, lots of goodbyes, Eunice and Ernie Baker - our English friends, Judy and Scott Seymour, Ed and Cini our American pals, Ed and Mariana, Joe and Margaret our good German friends, Elsie and John Droy,  and so many others.

Left about 11:30 a.m. and went into Estapona for John to film.  Then on to Puerto Banus - a millionaire's playground with rich Marinas holding luxurious yachts.  Found Marmite and baked beans cheaper in their supermarket.  On then to Fuengirola - American express is closed so, we walked around this tourist town.  Huge multi-storey buildings rise along the promenade.  Must have been a nice village before "progress".  Out to "Camping de Castillo." a nice camping area without hot showers.  We walked the road back into town for a buffet tea-real nice place - had as much as we wanted, notices in all languages advertised " eat as much as you like, but don't waste it "- plain, but good food.  Plenty of salads, and as a luxury a nice nougat with Mandarin for sweets. 

Walked home to bed at 10 p.m.  The restaurant was Versalles.

Sunday, 3rd January, 1982                      fine and sunny.

Up late after rest in bed.  Arthur, our little English chap from next door came in to change books.  Into mass after ablutions to a lovely church in the centre of the village for absolution.  The church is in the square, where activity was the order of the day.  Beggars sat outside the door.  It was a lovely mass.  And when they brought the plate around our eyes popped.  We had a handful of copper and silver and the plate was filled to overflowing with notes large and small.  We put our coins on very quietly.  It was a short sermon, and during Communion a cassettes came on - playing jingle Bells.  Along the beachfront people laze at outside bars or on the sand on their hired banana chairs.

Headed for camping Calazul - a two-year-old camping area, with plenty of hot water for hot showers tonight, lazy afternoon in the Sun.

Monday, 4th January, 1982                  fine and overcast.

Left camping Calazul.  Quite early for us.  Sandra excited re shopping.  We stopped at Fuengirola, where we met Harry and Dulcie Wall from Wimbledon Avenue at Narrabeen - knew Jim and Margaret, Hock and Eileen.  Were on a trip around Europe.  Continued through Torremolinos.  Not very impressed - too built up.  On to Malaga - siesta time - so out to camping Balneario Del Carman.  It is very dear and not very impressive.  Right on the harbour front - we drove right up to the edge of the wall and slept with the Mediterranean lapping the wall beneath us.

We went into town on the number 11 bus to buy a doona for Sandra and John.  First time we have been in a Spanish town, shopping after siesta.  School holidays and festive season may have contributed to the crowd.  We walked down to el Corte Ingles - chose a doona - strolled around with the crowd's - fought for a cuppa, then out in the streets to battle the crowds along the footpath - Sandra hugging her parcel.  To the bank and picked up our mail.  Letters from Bernard and Greta with Christmas cards.  Home on bus.

Tuesday, 5th January, 1982

Awakened by voices of the Guardia Civil about 8 a.m. - still dark.  Up and off quickly, to begin our journey up the mountains of Sierra Nevada to Granada.  A beautiful sunny day - a good road - a good drive for our driver.  Reached the hyper Sur outside of Granada, where we shopped, then ate our lunch - brought a "Tallia" bodice raincoat.  On then through Granada to Alhambra - we weren't sure of the way.  When this truck driver behind us, who had been waving and laughing hopped out of his truck at a red light - ran back and told us the way.  We liked the Spaniards they are so helpful and friendly - the traffic police are always obliging.  They are so casual too - waiting at a red light, this car load of people hopped out - greeted another crowd hugging and shaking hands all round and casually entered cars and off they went.

On up to Alhambra a really beautiful place.  

Alhambra, Spain

Entrance ticket, Alhambra, Spain

Built before the ninth century on Asabica hill.  It has been occupied by Romans, Moors and Christians.  It has had a romantic magical history, Alhambra means "red Castle".  It is divided into four parts, all of them majestic.  The Alcazar towering above always on guard.  The "Portal y Torres”-Tower gardens.  The Generalife and Casa Real - with its beautiful Azulajo tiled rooms.  Washington Irving began the reconstruction of this beautiful place.  The harem is really majestic - the carvings on walls and ceilings.  All remind us of clever artists.  Today was beautiful, so the gardens and waterways were a joy to walk in.

Reluctantly, we left and began our search for camp - so here we are in a “Z” class Park - you wouldn't believe the hassle to get a hot shower.  In the near distance is the Sierra Nevada -never seen snow so close and beautiful.

Strolled around the hyper Mercado for entertainment.  Tomorrow is the day Spaniards exchange gifts, and it's amazing to see people buying so many toys, presents etc so late, very little sign of poverty here.

Wednesday, 6th January, 1982              the Epiphany               sunny and brisk

Awoke at 8 a.m.- dark, cold moved briskly and were on the road at 9:45 a.m., through Granada - nil traffic - holiday and up through the mountains - Snow caps to the right and barren tops to the left.  A long day for John, but a nice sunny day.  We stopped outside of Guardix, where most of the homes are built into the side of the Mt-Troglodytes.  There are all mod cons.  We could see antennas and electricity wires.  Even some business premises were built into the mountain.  Through Guardix and on towards Baza - many of the troglodytes villages appear along the highway.  Stopped along the highway for lunch - through Puerto Lundbreras and a large town of Lorca, and then pulled into "Totana” camping.

Thursday, 7th January, 1982                     fine and sunny.

Well here we are in the land of never never - a different countryside to the rest of Spain.  Funny, we were told how cold it was up here and brought a doona in preparation, and we moved our warm clothes closer to the top of cupboards, and it has been so warm ever since we left Malaga.  Here at Fortuna and Mercia they haven't seen rain for 18 months.  It is dry, arid, white red and brown hills and soils.  Camping Totana was very nice last night - plenty of hot water and friendly people - the road through has been good.  Another Spanish holiday today so not much traffic - sailed through Mercia, a large city devoid of tourist effects.  The city of Mercia founded in 831 was made secure for the Pope to transfer the Episcopal seat to it from Cartagena. At the end of the highway is a large hill with a crucifix overlooking the town -off highway to Banos Fortuna - a bumpy made road of 20 odd kilometres to “camping las Palmeras."  The popular resort for geriatrics and sick people who come for the hot spa baths.

I did the washing Spanish style - over a wash area with hot spa water flowing through.  Quite a novel experience, but wouldn't like to do it too often.  There is a casino, hotel, restaurant, etc near the Bath's.  Looks like an oasis with palm trees, but a 250 pesetas entry, we aren't going to experience the Magic of the Spa.

Had a drink at the camp bar, played Yatzee in the open air - very warm - down to shorts and top.  In some places we went through the countryside looked like Moon area, stark, arid and devoid of growth.  Then past verdant paddocks, rich with fruit trees in growth.  Very interesting country.

Friday, 8th January, 1982                    fine and sunny

Awoke to another sunny warm day.  We decided not to stay here and were on our way by 10 a.m.  Met some people from Jersey, who had a good laugh when John asked them did they know any Romerils.  All the people were nice at the camp, but we had to go.  A bumpy road down for 40 km then on to the highway through Abanilla on to Elche where we found a nice camping Park.  “el Palmeral.", but it was too early to stay and too dear.  So on to Alicante for mail pick up.  Lovely parcel from Tony and Billy full of things we need.  Thanks kids.  A letter from Cecily Mitchell too with news from Calvary.

Had lunch in Alicante and were driving out when we saw Sylvia and John Martin from Bangalow, parked on the beach, poor beggars had had so much trouble with their diesel engine ford - put it in for service at Faro, just after we last saw them early December and had trouble since.  Cost them thousands of escudos and pesetas and this French boy from Mauritius fixed it up for $10.  We left them quite happy on the beach at Alicante.

Stayed the night at “Camping Sertorium" a popular resort, right on the Playa.  An Englishman came up and told us we were in the Spanish children's play area and would be kept awake.  So we moved down a block or two.  Calm night hot shower.

Saturday, 9th January, 1982                   fine and warm.

Awoke reasonably happy and headed into Benidorm - found a Park on the beach just fiddled whilst John went to American Express.  I sent mail to Tony, Cecily from the Carreras.  Sent negatives to Tony from two first films.  Spent morning and early afternoon there - lunched at Burger King - kids had fill of hamburgers.  I had a packet of chips and Sandra and John went to a nearby restaurant for meal of the day.  

Benidorm, Spain

Benidorm is a tourist conglomeration of multi-storey apartments and restaurants, continental bars and souvenir shops.  We then went to find the caravan park for a weekend.

We found one about 3 km from town at "Camping Torreda".  The kids and Sandra stayed downtown to play minigolf.  John and I settled into plot and John took off whilst I showered and strolled down the road to meet them all at Burger King.  You’ve never lived till you walk along a Spanish road.  They love to hoe up their foot paths.

Decided to walk home, eat and go back into town and stroll.  Nice chicken and almonds then the stumble back to town.  Hid torch in the base of tree near town.  Found the bar - the English bar - where “Life of Brian" was being shown at 9 p.m. so we strolled, had a drink in a nice bar, where Sean’s expertise on the pinball machines, put us all on the top five.  Returned to see the funny show - John was seeing it for the first time, and we all laughed and enjoyed it just as much.  The kids were worried about John's laugh, but I think they forgot to worry as the film proceeded.  Home and into bed exhausted.

Sunday, 10th January, 1982                      fine and cool.

I woke quite late to an overcast day.  John and Sean and Rae went down town before lunch, Sandra and I followed later.  We walked all over Benidorm.  They were all watching "Grease" at the British Pub - after we strolled to another pub and watched last part of Papillon and the beginning of "Carri", but it was too gruesome.  So the female species went to mass (4 blocks up road) and Sean and John watched a James Bond movie.

St Carman's is very modern, and we met our Benidorm "Jimmy bloke" again - he seems to pop up in every country.  Walked home about 7:35 p.m. to a hurried shower.  Hot showers closed at 8 p.m.  John missed out and hit the roof - don't blame him.  Sean's cold is better.

Monday 11th January, 1982                     overcast and fine

Arose quite late - leisurely breakfast.  Then down town to do the washing.  Our towels needed the machine.  Nil electricity, so I wandered to the markets and bought nice tablecloth, small plate and cassette "the bird dance".

Met the crew, Sean prepared lunch then Sandra wanted to buy shoes - no luck.

They are all in watching "flying high", whilst I have a rest.  We decided to free camp.  So we all had hot showers before we left the camp.

The kids and I went to the British bar to watch "midnight express" and "the French connection", while Sandra and John went back to American Express.

We settled in for the night in a side Street, near the Playa with three other vans - New Zealand, British and Dutch beside us.  Sandra, John and Sean went out for a coffee about 9 p.m.  Rachelle and I to bed.

Tuesday 12th January, 1982                    fine and brisk.

Restless night - woke to all vans in situ, no police.  John drove the van up to the Paris hotel.  So we were near nice clean toilets for our daily sit.

We found some worm tablets after many gestures and bad Spanish.  Good bye Benidorm off to Javea.  .  We loved Benidorm - lots to do there - so many English pubs with films and good ones at that, going all day.  Love the streets and playa.  We were strolling along trying not to look like tourists, when this cockney spoke "before you leave, go to the mediaeval night."  Come to the Jolly sailor pub with Terry and Mike - introduced himself, had a bit of a chat then took off.  Mike looked as if he had a blonde red wig on.  

We travelled on to tea, 11 km from Benidorm.  Down on the Playa we found John and Sylvia Martin again.  It is a typical Spanish village with a typical Spanish Tuesday market.  We loved it - about 3 km long, stretching right along the beachfront.  Stalls of every description - I got haggled into a gold chain and St Christopher pendant six dollars.  Sandra brought a tablecloth and John a pair of leather boots $22.  Spent a few hours, had lunch and off to Javea to find Trudy and Brian - through lovely citrus country.

Past Calpe with the “penon de ifach" standing magnificently at the end of the Bay.  After squeezing our way almost to the cottage through narrow lanes.  We all decided it was a bit risky, would do too much damage - walked up - not at home.  So, we retreated down the narrow walks, and that was all they were - to review the situation.  John does a terrific job of driving the big Adventura.  Decided to have a cuppa then drive down to Purto de Javea and return to see if they had returned.  

The port is lovely, like all beaches along the Costa Brava.  Brian and Trudy hadn't returned so left a note and headed towards Denia - surprised to find it has a university - it is an old fishing town.

Camping “Eden of Sol” is on the waterfront.  Had decent hot shower, Rae, Sandra and I went for a walk after tea along the beachfront.  Sean and John went into town for a drink, arrived home 12:30 a.m. full of merriment from either too much Spanish company or too much of a good thing.

Estepona to Javea, Spain

Christmas in Estepona, Spain

Tuesday, 15th December, 1981                 fine

John and Sandra off to town, Sean, Rae and I had a quiet interesting day at home.  

Kids decorated the van, made a garden outside and suburbanised the area.  The camp is full of German retirees in their Mercedes and caravans, and English pensioners escaping the severe winter - some have been here months and are quite suntanned.  Down to the beach to sunbake - can't believe it doesn't get light till 8:30 a.m. and stays light till 8 p.m. Did a big wash in machine for a hundred pesetas.  So good to have all cleaned.  Booked in for Friday & Saturday early to do sleeping bags, hope the sun and wind stay around.

Met some funny people - at dusk a Volkswagen pulled up an out poured 8 people - three adults and five kids - up went 2 tents.  They are an English couple with five kids on the way to Morocco for four weeks.  To see them pack the van then wonder where the kids were going to fit was fascinating.

Estepona, Spain

Sean and I went into Estapona to finish shopping, had a great morning, picked up photos, only the second lot we have had developed.  Worked out at $0.48 per photo.  We had a coffee in a cafe, lunch and more cafe con leche, sent parcel to the kids, had lovely day at market and looking in shops.  Sean brought a pair of sand shoes. We bought chicken, mushrooms, peanut butter for Christmas tree - oh for some Vegemite.

Thursday, 17th December, 1981               overcast

Awoke to a windy day, great excitement - you can see all of African coast from here.  Apparently it doesn't happen too often.  We were invited for a drive with Ron and Joan Russell up the mountain ranges - Sierra Nevada - to Sierrania de Rhonda, 730 m above sea level.  What an experience, the road is called the "road of a thousand bends”, a whole new project has provided a lovely smooth road but it still is the road of 990 bends.  Ron has a 1981 Land Rover, so it climbed okay but left our stomachs on the floor.  Sean ended up with a migraine, John was feeling queasy and I was also from rigid muscles.  Anyway it was a nice afternoon company wise.  Up through cloud and mist to an ancient old town built on a chasm.  The donkeys must have worked overtime to transport the material.  There is a lovely new town too.

Ronda, Spain (Britannica)

Safely back at sea level, wine dined and went for a Christmas drink at the Russell's - met an English couple - Pat and Mac.

Friday,18th December, 1981                    windy and showery

Battled with the elements to wash the sleeping bags, first time in 4 ½ months. Booked in at 9 a.m. - they put down Mrs Great - because when I was given the early morning appointment for the machine I said “great” so now it's Mrs Great.  Managed to dry three of the five bags.  Decided to have early night, so cooked tea early - John brought a piece of pork from Estapona.  We had just cooked it when we are invited to a "benefits of flamenco" in San Pedro by Joan and Ron.  Well none of us knew what to expect so we dressed up, Joan even took her opera glasses.  So while Sandra, Rae and I went to the show, the boys, left to their own devices, found the bar where dominoes are played and had a great time.  Well the "beneficio" was held not in the Opera house but local cinema house and it was a village do.  The theatre was full of Spaniards except for us. Firstly, the local dance school performed a flamenco dance and very much enjoyed, they were little girls dressed in colourful frocks, and then they had a couple of men singing Fado - and one played guitar then interval.  People were moving singing out and talking the whole time - during acts luckily the music was turned up allowed to get over the noise.

At some time interval must have been over, because they started again with their guitars and wailing and when we left at midnight they were still going.  It was supposed to start at 8 p.m. but about nine they began. Home to bed about 1 p.m.  Mañana

Saturday, 19th December, 1981                fine and sunny

Slept in till 9:20 a.m. and had to rise to put the last two sleeping bags in.  When finished took a drive to Marbella for petrol.  It is a holiday place very busy where film stars and Arab oil king's winter. After lunch a laze on the beach - beautiful sunlight and day.

As part of the coast is prone to smugglers it is patrolled by police regularly.  Whilst at Tarifa the Guardia Civil would drive through during the night and there was barbed wire and cacti all along the coast.  Joan and Ron came for a farewell drink - they are off on a seven day tour to Morocco.  They will be back on Boxing Day.

Sunday, 20th December, 1981

Met a family of Kiwis who had just returned from a weeks tour to Morocco - at last Rachelle has company - Carlene is same age.  Coming over windy and cloudy after a lovely sunny morning.  Slept in till 10 a.m.  Real lazy!

We are surrounded by Germans.  The old gentleman next to us can speak English - people opposite, we conversed in sign language and JA and nein.  One German woman had a clash with me over washing machine.  Didn't understand a word she was saying but she sure was wild.  Sandra cut my hair today - second time in five months. Olive Lackner will be pleased.

Monday, 21st December, 1981                 five days to Christmas

Week began very windy - force 10 - terrible night.  Gale force winds.  John and Sandra went into town to finish shopping, blew up a storm they will get wet.  So much rain it won't soak into ground - result outside our door 6 inches of water accumulates.  Sean moved the van just out of the water line - we borrowed a shovel from the German fellow across the road, but couldn't keep up with the downpour.  We were saturated - hot shower. Sandra and John were also saturated when they returned.  We moved the van into the trees, out of the water but Gale force 10 winds sprang up and the old eucalyptus trees started to creak, so back we came to our original spot. Mr Fez next door fussed over us before we went, and when we woke up in the morning he says.  "Boomerang eh?” he spent all morning looking for spot, but decided Aussies didn't camp under gum trees, and we were in the safest place.  One large bough of the tree fell near the toilets and a fir tree uprooted and fell - both luckily missing anyone - terrible night - we were all awake all night - three van loads of late comers snuggled in beside and around us for the night.  The whole camp fell asleep about 3 a.m. There was a big cleanup of branches and leaves etc.

Tuesday, 22nd December, 1981

Young German couple, Ludwig and Heidrun, came in with their two little girls, Mayiam and Yulia, for morning tea.  Stayed three hours.  He is a policeman and was going to Australia for eight weeks to visit family, but ended up here.  Very nice couple live near Bonn in Eiskirchen

They left at 2 p.m. and we had to be up to Heidi and Paco's flats to have afternoon tea with a Belgian couple, Sandra met in town - Simone and their son Yves.  They took us to Paco's bar for a drink then in a big rush home to a party the manager, Mr Heinamen was throwing in the bar at the park.  Well, what a night thought it was a glass of wine and a sandwich, but quite a spread was before us - the next problem was to beat all the German guests to the table.  I guess they were all hungry, as I managed a plate of olives.  We were all hungry about 9 p.m.  Bought some hot chips, but too many hands and not enough chips.  It was quite a good night, all nationalities singing Christmas carols and dancing together.  We have some nice neighbours - Sean has christened them all - "Schultz next door".  Real name is Joachim Zeiss and Margot.  Camp cover-ups = equal secret police.  The enigma Department of defence etc,

Thursday, 24th December, 1981

Been busy with pre-Christmas preparation, morning tea with Ludwig and Heidrun then over to ring Karen and hopefully Tony.  Got through in one minute - great to speak to the kids - they came over so clear.  Tony hadn't arrived - coming at 12:30 a.m.  Cook chicken, made salads, Sandra and I were busy in between interruptions.  They all went up to the beach bar for free drinks at 7:30 p.m.  I stayed home wrapped my presents and read.  It was raining earlier but cleared up for swim.

Friday, 25th December, 1981                   fine and sunny.

Christmas Day - no church nearby and unhappy about that.  But the day dawned clear and sunny.  So John put up the awning, and we opened letter from Karen, which John had hitchhiked to Malaga for - put on tapes from home, whilst having breakfast.  Lots of love songs and messages come through the tape.  We opened the presents off the tree - everyone pleased - silver pen and refill - little Paris place - a clown place, Shakespeare's quotes and Portugal jug, all filled my coffer.  Very pleased. Santa was good to the kids - Sean likes little presents and money - saving for car.  Rachelle liked her goodies but managed to break ear ring cameo and lose 200 pesetas in 24 hours.  See Pat's blog on Christmas in Estepona

The day was marvellous.  We had Joe and Margaret - Schultz to us, laden with his litre "good red wine" for Sean (makes big strong boy), Eddie and Mariana from Germany, Ludwig and Heidrun  and their two little girls, Ernie and Eunice our English friends from Sevenoaks in Kent, Scott and Judy from Kentucky, Ian and Jenny from Victoria, our naive Australia pair, who will survive only by luck, John and Jenny Heath an ABC announcer from 3LO Melbourne with their two sons Nigel and Nicholas, Dr Chris and his wife Linda Norton, Jenny from New Zealand, plus odd couples that stopped for a drink - we talked and drank till 3 p.m., and everyone disappeared for lunch, except Ludwig and his family, Ernie and Eunice.  

So we had quite a nice lunch.  The young girl Jenny next door, was instructed step by step on how to bake a chicken and veggies on top of the stove.  We had chicken, salami, and plenty of salads, nuts bon-bons and the Spanish small cake called Roscon de Reyes.

Roscon de Reyes

Slept for an hour, then showered, and we all congregated like flies again at the Kiwi bus family of eight-Carlene Angela Lisa and Paul Chapman- Parents, aunt and uncle Carol and Paul, Chris and Debbie.  Two other English couples arrived too, Elsie and John, Tom and Enid and an odd one out- Ted. Rae was homesick on an off till she found out everyone else was to.  We were like lost souls all homing in to be with someone in the same position.  To celebrate birth of Christ.

Stayed singing and dancing till about 11 p.m., the cold had eaten into our bones -the days are nice, but the nights freezing

Saturday, 26th December, 1981                        fine.

I woke quite late, had a disturbance before sleeping.  Our little Aussies next door, came home pretty drunk from the party - drank a whole bottle of Southern comfort.  He fell over at the side of the van and fell asleep, Jenny hopped into bed.  Then Chris and Paul arrived from ringing up and bundled him into the Volkswagen.  Then she fell out the door, and they both ended up in the nude going to the shower.  Heaven forbid - who let these two loose on the continent!

Had brunch and lazed most of the day - had a book exchange outside for part of the day -coffee or wine went with the books - the German manager, Heinamen, came marching over to complain.  The Aussies and Kiwi kids were teasing his kids - heaven forbid, and he's managing a big place like this - let's hope he was only tired from Christmas celebrations.  Thought we were going to have another war.

Went for a long walk along the beach - beautiful day.  Early to bed.

Sunday, 27th December, 1981                  overcast but fine.

Another sleep in, up and washed before the threatening rains come.  Went for a long walk with Eunice, our English friend - Ernie isn't a walker.  So at last, I have someone to accompany me.  Kids having a marvellous time with other children in the park - never see them.  Off to have Christmas pudding with Joan and Ron tonight.  Near us in a Volkswagen is an elderly German pair - they can't speak English.  But we know, he is swearing at her.  He sits and drinks a litre of wine all day.  Then abuses her all night.  Well takes all kinds.

Joan and Ron invited us to sweets after tea.  Ooh bonne sweets - plum pudding and brandy sauce and fruitcake - mmm beautiful.  A nice evening, they enjoyed their stay in Morocco.  Had a lovely time - seven days at five-star hotels.  Home to bed and these dirty stop outs went to bar at 10 p.m. to say bye bye to New Zealanders, who were leaving that next morning.  Rain and windy night.

Monday, 28th December, 1981                rain and wind.

Went into Malaga with Ernie and Eunice to see the folk Festival, but it was a washout.  It poured raining, so we trundled around Malaga had coffee in the square, found a very nice restaurant to eat.  Then drove out through great puddles of water to Pryka.  The super Mercado just out of Malaga - discovered Marmite was sold - much delight in van when brought out of the shopping bag.  Arrived home with plenty of goodies.  Dined and bed to listen to the wind in the gum trees, ocean on the shore and rain on the roof.  Not a very restful night.  Brought white Romeral for 81 pesetas.

Goodbye to the Chapman's, Ian and Jenny the Aussies, Chris and Linda Horton, the Kiwis.  John and Jenny Evans, our ex-producer of 3 LO Melbourne all gone their merry ways - doubt if we will see any of them again.  The last night here, everyone was down at the bus, and John decided to act the juvenile and walked on a brick wall in front of an angry German, which antagonised him so much John ended up in a fracas.

Keep your feet on terra firma John, my boy.

Tuesday, 29th December, 1981                wet.

Rain rain go away - dampness creeps into our very bones, besides our vans.  Off to Estapona this a.m. with Rae to do some browsing - I love Estapona and haven't had a chance to walk the town - keeps raining.  Simone and Jules came for a drink in the bar.  We are going to tea tomorrow at their apartment.  They came to lunch yesterday, but I was away.  Played ad lib with Eunice - Ernie wasn't well.  He likes to read and laze.  Like the game.

John and Scott are like lost sheep without the Anzacs.  So off into town for a pub crawl.  The old gut will misbehave tomorrow.

Wednesday, 30th December, 1981                       wet and windy.

I woke to another overcast day, not cold, but grey and wet.  Have a washing date for 1:30 p.m. so hope it clears a little - if good winds blow it will dry.  John has gone into Marbella with Scott and Judy, whilst we entertain Elsie and John to morning tea.  The Chapman family from New Zealand adopted them as stand in grandparents.  So they are feeling lonely.  Our German friend, Joe Zeiss continues to look after us with information on wine, cars, Germany etc.  Too wet to walk - Simone and Jules have invited us up to their apartment for tea tonight - chips for the kids, a luxury we can't cook here.

Well what an evening - couldn't find the family at first - found them in Paco's bar.  The promise of hot chips was dashed with one sentence "a blackout on the Costa del Sol."- so we had boiled potatoes, chicken, bean soup, beautiful, (gas cooked) and ate by candlelight.  We had a terrific night.  Such a nice family.  Even the reluctant driver enjoyed himself immensely.  Home at 10 p.m. fully sated.

Thursday, 31st December, 1981                                       raining

Last day of the year and crying many tears from the sky.  Battled with washing all day.  Believe it or not, the Sun came out about 4 p.m. and promised a fine New Year's Eve.  Young Jenny and Ian arrived back wet from Portugal to spend New Year's Eve with us.  Had Eunice and Ernie, Scott and Judy, Ed and?, Jim and Annie (Canadians) into the awning for a hodgepodge tea - everyone bought a plate  - chicken, salad, hummus dip, fried rice etc. filled us all up, plus the Romeral wine.  When the cold crept in we adjourn to the bar, where next door Joe and Margaret, Simone Jules and Yves were dining at a 1800 peseta meal.  They kept bringing out bottles of wine, sweets and "piece de resistance", hats, streamers, blowers all ready for 1982.  Had wow of a time, after midnight, they invited us into dance etc - we all did the chicken dance.  Simone danced to a Spanish flamenco with the Spanish senorita - no Caballero available - went on till we retired at 2 a.m.- enough!

Friday, 1st January, 1982               happy new year to everyone               fine and sunny.

Thank you, Lord for a beautiful first day of 1982.  We washed, cleaned and scrubbed happily all day after a late start; the Sun has certainly rejuvenated us all.

Had a sunbake -  later in the day a visit from Joe Schultz.  He warned us about Italy.  He is a real caring soul told us in 1957 he and Mama were nearly kidnapped.  We can imagine two tiny Italians trying to kidnap 20 stone Joe and 15 stone Margaret, he is a real delight. Canadians and daughter from Valverde arrived today.  Very wet in Portugal, preparing to be on the road again - hardest part is saying goodbye. The boys are up to the bar for their good bye drinks, came home late and decided to sit under the Mediterranean sky and count the stars with all the inebriated friends till Mama changed their minds.  Sean has revolting cold.

Hello again Spain and Estepona

Thursday 10th of December               overcast

We then filled our money purses with lovely pesetas and felt so good.  John didn't have enough to pay Ultramar the commission so he left Sandra and the kids as a bond - only joking.  We rose early and caught the bus outside the camp for our 20 minute good ride into Seville.  After shopping we had a Buffet Libre at El Cortes Ingles, a Department store, food - we ate and ate and ate but kept within our diet components.  At least Sandra and I did - after a leisurely 2 hour lunch, thought we had better leave - shopped, home to go to Pryka - large supermarket, filled larder - we go mad in them and it's the first one for three weeks.  Home to toast, tea and yoghurt and bed

Friday, 11 December, 1981

Into town to see some of the sites of Seville - we love this city, clean and different people to up north.  Homes are neater to more like the Portuguese.  We visited the Alcazar, the Royal Palace -the gardens are beautiful. 

Down to the cathedral and Giralda Tower which can be seen from every part of the city.  Christopher Columbus's tomb stands in a pride of place with four soldiers holding it.  Isabella from Spain financed his explorations.  A monument to him stands in the Murillo Garden.  On coming out of the cathedral - we were returning at five for the "balle dos Seisas " young lads singing and dancing with the Seville Orchestra in honour of the Immaculate Conception - 

however we were abducted by this English-speaking guide who led us down this lane to a lace factory.

Showed us all these beautiful hand-woven bedspreads, tablecloths, shawls etc.  It was really a dry cleaner who sold these as a sideline or vice versa.  Anyway we were interested as it is beautiful work, but John had to go to the bank (the guide stayed with him) in the meantime back at the factory, we were hassled out into a smaller room on the pretence of a better table -a large crowd of tourist was the reason.  The final - Sandra brought her tablecloths - beautiful, me a doily and Rae a small wall doily - degrees of prosperity.

Morilla gardens were out of this world, orange trees everywhere.  Walked through Santa Cruz - the Jewish quarter - passed small streets and into the palace.  Tiles on the walls are unusual - it is called Mudejar art - built in the 14th century.  The wooden ceilings are Spanish, we walked through the Harem - everywhere are gardens and pools beautifully kept.  A stroll then through the former ghetto - Santa Cruz with its narrow lanes and hidden outdoor patios with their colourful plants and trees and orange trees

Morilla Gardens, Seville, Spain

Down to El Corte Inglés for lunch - this time a huge Bocadillo (four way sandwich) and coffee.  A stroll through older narrow streets, found a health shop that sold bran - panic buttons off.  Brought six packets -  it is Salvado in Spanish.  Then down to Ultramar to pick up last mail before leaving.  We sat in the cathedral gardens of conception among the orange trees laden with fruit, while San read all the mail from Norma and friend, and we went in and offered a service for Bob. It is hard especially for Sandra but hopefully time will heal now, and only leave happy memories.

Rae, Sean and I then went to Felatrel shops to buy coins and stamps.  Home then to chicken in wine

Saturday, 12th December 1981                fine and overcast

We are on the road again to Jerez de la Frontera where John and Sean had hoped to view the sherry Bodegas, over good road and picturesque countryside through Dos Hermanas, los Palacios and las Cabezas to Jerez where we found all the Bodegas closed till Monday.  So on towards Tarifa - stopped in countryside for lunch then on through Puerto Real.

We feel at home again with the big black Bull, the Michelin Man and an added statue silhouette Caballero with his guitar on the hill tops.

First sight of Africa - a thrill for me.  Here we are at Torre de la Pena at Tarifa.

Tarifa, Spain

Will we stay here for Christmas or not - that is the question.  The camp is split in the middle by the highway so we settled on the low side beside the water and bar.  Still raining, so we are getting low on clothes.  Went for a walk along the beach.  It is high tide and waves are dashing against the rocks right on the patio of the bar.  The beach is barbed wired, and cactus grows in profusion to keep smugglers out from Africa.  Police patrol the area nightly.

Sunday, 13th December, 1981                 raining and windy

Went to sleep to the sound of surf and wind - lovely.  Still trying to decide to stay.  Went into town of Tarifa which is 6 km away - to the furthest point south of Europe - is only 8 km to Africa from here.  Drove around town and went to Mass in a lovely little Spanish church.

They sang "Glory Glory Allelujah".  Could understand the priest so we must be becoming attuned to Spanish.  We find this - by the time we move on we can understand the local language a lot better than when we entered.  Home, ceased raining so we had washing done - 225 pesetas a machine load.  After battling all day with clothes, dined and went to a bar at 8pm while the English couple who ran the bar entertained the kids and us.  George Formby (Harry) and Elsie, pleaded with us to stay but we had made up our minds to move.

Monday, 14th December, 1981                raining

John has been trying all week to get Bob Fellows on the phone.

Africa in the distance

So we drove to Algeciras over the mountains, through rain and fog, through the town to La Linea de la Conception, first sight of the Rock of Gibraltar - what a thrill to see all these famous places.  

Gibraltar 

We walked down to the border where there is a lot of activity preparing for their entry into NATO and the common market.  It is sad there is the English flag and guard and 100 yards Spanish flag and guard and no one is allowed through. Just inside the border is the airport of Gibraltar.

Lunch outside Corrio, posted lots of mail.  Outside of Algeciras we visited a supermarket out of town, bought Christmas fare - 3400 pesetas about $34 - so we are pretty well set for extra goodies - the countryside was badly in need of rain so we can't complain, everywhere lovely Hacienda's and Villas all well kept.  The roads are good.  I took lots of film of Gibraltar then on to the Mediterranean Sea, can't believe it and on to Estapona where we headed for caravan park Chimenea.  I think we will return here.

Into town to enquire about villas - we were shown 1, 5 stories up, right in town.  Something fishy about our agents.  John went up in lift with agent and we all walked up the five flights -nice three-bedroom units but over a cup of con leche at the cafe we decided on camp for three weeks - we may be mad, but it remains to be seen.  Already we have had a Dutchman, German and Australians we met at Valverde visit us so we will have plenty of company with a 44 peseta ride into town will provide us with transport.

Beautiful eucalyptus trees surround us - shades of home.

Seville to Estepona, Spain

Onto the Algarve and Faro, Portugal

Thursday, 26th November, 1981                  sunny and warm

Collected washing from the line - all dried.  Went for a stroll along the beachfront of camping area.  Then started on the long trek to Lagos.  

Decided to have a ferry ride to cut off 20 km for John.  Bumped our way down to Doca de Recrio to the ferry boat.  Sandra asked fellow where is so and so trying to speak Portuguese and he said "oh ferry boat" we drove aboard with fish trucks, taxi and cars plus passengers.  Cost 15 escudos per person plus 150 escudos for the car.  Left the Setubal wharf in the rusty old ferry and sailed smoothly into the centre of Río Sado - you could see the castle and the camp area.  A quick, calm 20 minutes and we arrived at Troia - an unusual town - all modern buildings, Post Office, super Mercado - a complete little village - beautiful smooth roads (unusual in Portugal).  Couldn't find anyone so off we went on the bumpy road through Comporta-Sante Andre.  

Just outside of Santiago de Cacem we stopped for lunch on side of road in the country.  Sean said “here’s a dog mum" Sandra said “his owner probably sent him to spy out the land".  Well a few minutes later we nearly died when down the road came an old man - no teeth, bandy legs, five o'clock beard, dressed in black carrying a basket and beside him a little girl in white.  He had a dozen eggs in an old basket and the little girl held up the paper with 80 escudos on it.  Well after much discussion we bought them and off he went after thanks.  Then about five minutes later we nearly died, back he wobbled with his grandchild and a real live chook in his arms.  Well talk about a hassle - Sean reckons I had said yes I'll have a live chook.  Well after much “no no nil comprende” off he went with his live chook - we nearly had hysterics.  They came from a nice, clean looking house.  The countryside looks better here - and the villages take on a clean painted look - not as neglected looking as further north.  The churches and castles are Gothic and Romanesque here in Portugal and the houses squat, white washed with Moorish style chimneys.  Donkeys are still used a lot here in the hilly country.

On down through Cercal -  the road has not improved - large village of Odemura, Aljezur and down to Lagos - a small village on the water - and went to camp area.  The municipal Parque was grotty and the Ponto de Mos had nothing for the kids so here we are at Praia de Luz at Valverde - a lovely area 20 minutes from the sea and village with a swimming pool, TV room, bar, tennis court and good weather all for 43 escudos each.  We may stay here for a few days.  Sean and Rae have already had a swim.  This area is on the Algarve coast.  It has lots of British and Dutch here in their caravans settled for the winter.

Kids went mad, had a swim and a go on the swings and a long walk to Praia de Luz.  It is a lovely camp and it's great to see the kids frolicking and enjoying themselves.  Met Robert and Cheryl - a couple we met in Madrid - who went the opposite way to us in Spain - they came in for a gossip and drink so it was late before we settled.

Algarve, Portugal

Up fairly early eager to take in sunlight and relaxing day.  Put the washing into the laundress -they do it for 25 escudos a kilo - had to wait till the shop opened for bread and milk for brekkie and I was waiting for the laundress to come at 9 a.m. and they were halfway talking - they are so casual doesn't matter if they are 15 minutes late.  

After breakfast went to ring Karen - you approached the Portuguese telephone service with trepidation - takes about two hours for a phone call.  They knit and talk and you fume.  Well it only took two hours from woe to go - was great to hear Karen's voice and know she is okay and Tony, it must have been traumatic - funny all we were doing was worrying about them and all they were doing was worrying about us.  Time should start to heal now we have spoken to Karen.  Packed up and headed for the pool and have been here since 11:30 a.m.  There is a slight breeze from the Gulf but the Costa de Sol is trying hard to please us.

Rae and Sean have frolicked in the water nearly all the time - San did two laps with determination to lose weight but the cold and exertion was too much - she came out chilled all over.  I thought she would faint, so easy does it for her tomorrow.  They are all going to play tennis later on with Robert and Cheryl.  Have written to Karen, Bev, Ian and Libby.

Saw a funny thing at the Bath's - lazing in the sun we noticed this old fellow breast stroking an up-and-down baths.  I had spoken to him earliert in the day.  The next thing he ran up the baths - stopped, looked and tore down the side again giving off a loud flatus.

Decided we would have a pizza for tea, drove a few kilometres to the village of Praia da Luz right on to the beach, ordered our food and was entertained by the Barman whilst we waited.

Sandra had half the chicken, I had fish fillets, chips and salad, Sean, John and Rae had pizzas.  We discovered piri-piri sauce made from chilli - blow your mind!

Robert and Cheryl came in for another evening.

Saturday, 28th November, 1981               fine with wind             22°

I woke early in answer to bodily functions and a beautiful day.  Decided to go into Lagos by bus - then by car. Just as well as we were heavily laden from the markets.  Had a good morning amongst the fruit, veggies and nuts.  Still can't abide the fish markets - the odour is too much for me.  Brought lovely fresh tomatoes, salad greens, oranges and mandarins.  Strolled around Lagos buying sun hats -180 escudos - to cope with the beautiful sunlight here by the pool.  

Praia de Luz

Found a nice open-air bar, had a mineral water whilst basking in the sun.  Then stocked up on our larder at the only supermarket.  Because there are so many English-speaking people here the shelves abound with all the goodies we know, but too dear.  Strolled round clothing market, beautiful jumpers, tablecloths.  Brought three small towels -70 escudos each - to supplement the linen cupboard.  Then home to lunch by the pool and a day of rest.

John went over to the bar.  We all (kids and I) strolled across to the TV lounge.  Watched a little Portuguese entertainment.  Didn't need words, could follow the actions - home to bed.

Sunday, 29th November, 1981                  fine and windy

After a sleep in we are all happy now the specialist in Lisbon treatment has brought results for Sandra.  Decided to have a lazy day - found a spot out of the breeze and got on with my scrapbook.  I still have the UK to do.  A little friend is performing again for us this time with a skipping rope -everyone is so friendly here.  Staff and campers.  Said goodbye yesterday to Cheryl and Robert.  Decided to walk down to the village to 5 p.m. Mass.  John had been for a walk and found that info out.  Anyway Sandra, John and I showered and strolled down the narrow village road to Praia da Luz.  

Praia de Luz

Lovely old church but no priest or parishioners so strolled down to the beach, had a cappuccino.  Not many make it here.  Then walked home about 20 minutes.  We met an English couple-Graham and Christine with their little 18 month-old Danielle-they are on holidays in a larger van than ours and Christine is 33 weeks pregnant-game?  Returning home on 17th of December.

After tea we walked across to the bar-kids love that and had a coffee, a chat with Trudy and Brian-expatriate's and Graham and then home to bed.

Every able male has a little 2 stroke and you hear-putt putt- all day and night-one way to get around on the narrow roads.

 Monday, 30th November, 1981                    fine

The nice weather continues to hold.  Decided we would join John on the beach but was too chilly for any length of time.  The kids dug holes and generally had a good time whilst I strolled along the beach and waves.  As it was a holiday on Tuesday -  tomorrow -  we had to buy food.

Back to lunch (salad, doorstops & ham) by the pool, a swim.  Have met some nice people here so we are fortunate to have company.  Washed and had a reasonably early night after Sean and I won the battle of the van at 500.  We have afternoon free. Tea.

Tuesday, 1st December, 1981                        fine      22°

Still fine, warm weather - I sent Rae into the bar whilst we were lazing by the pool playing 500 - for 3 mineral waters and some Batata fritters, expecting a bag of chips - instead out came a large plate of hot chips, waited on and all for 50 escudos - about $.60.  A holiday today so we are lounging by the pool - very hot.  Brian and Trudy - the expats - are here, also our English friends Christine and Graham and their little one who is toddling around the pool - Christine has only seven weeks to go and they are far from home.  Trudy is a great one on recipes so Sandra has found a soothing hobby copying recipes ready for a culinary attack on the family.

Trudy is a lovely person - we should see some more of them on the road.  John took us to the camp restaurant for tea - very nice.  Had a bad time ordering, ended up with two extra plates of hot chips.  Sandra and I had shrimp cocktail - beautiful - and ham omelette.  The kids had veal, rice and chips and pork slices, chips and rice.  We ended evening having coffee with Trudy and Brian - lots of laughs.

Wednesday, 2nd December 1981                  fine but cool wind

Twenty three days to go til Christmas.  Decided to go into Lagos to shop.  The boys stayed home whilst we braved the speedway.  The bus was nice - a real tourist bus, but the driver was trying to beat the fellow in Lisbon I think.  

We had fun in the markets, strolled around with our American friends - they had arrived the night before and were staying at Trinidad, not a very nice one.  By the time we arrived home they were here to camp, after our big wrap up.  Sandra brought a hand-painted plate, me a spoon.  Looked at the linen which was very cheap and nice here -  and caught the bus home.  Walked down to Praia da Luz to the chemists, bought Sandra some ferri-gradumet to put some pep in her steps.  Home to try one of Trudy's recipes - chicken and almonds in port - very nice too with a few Romeril and Marsden additives - good comments from the boys and Rae. The BBC came in good tonight as boys fixed the connection and we heard number one "begin the Begin” in Spanish. Also chapter 10 of "Lord of the flies". We have heard over the four months "Wuthering Heights" and nearly every night "Take it or leave it".  Sean reckons the two teams are dumb as they still don't know the answers.

Thursday, 3rd December, 1981               fine

We live so well - bran and yoghurt for breakfast - ham and tomato rolls for lunch and chicken and veggies for tea, wine with every meal - and sunshine - who could ask for anything more?  Sandra and John went into Lagos so I finished my scrapbook thank goodness, it is now up-to-date.  We lunched and lazed by the pool.  Sean and I were shouted our afternoon tea as our card prize - coffee and ice cream cake by the pool.  Talking takes a lot of time here - to walk to the toilet block it takes an hour if you stop and speak to everyone - really a league of Nations.  Ray and Elaine have just arrived (Australians) Dick Emory - Francis and Bob the Canadians, Sue and Wally uncle?  And niece?  From England - Charlotte and Titus Scholl, the Americans.

Last night we tried a Portuguese dish - Bacalhau - a salted fish - which had to be soaked for 24 hours.  I held it in the bus coming home from Lagos and I kept twitching my nose - the smell was incredible - but the locals didn't even notice.  Anyway poor Sandra started to cook it about 3 PM yesterday - every time she started we had visitors.  Then Sue next door called us in for a cuppa - then when she did get started we all took off as it was a fiddly dish but the outcome - it was delicious, so that’s two local dishes we like.

Friday, 4th December, 1981                 fine and sunny

The English couple next to us are so outspoken and not very tactful - said they hadn't met any Australians who were educated and brown.  A couple of whingers we think.

Have an exciting day down to bank this p.m.  The bank closed at 2:30 p.m. and we left here at 2:15 p.m. for the 1 1/2 kilometres run.  Ray and Elaine tooted us and picked us up then we didn't know the way to the bank - pulled up and asked a local - he was so polite, picked him up too and he directed us and just in time - they closed the doors as we entered.  Were there 20 minutes - they are so casual.

We shopped, then strolled home to find new friends from New Mexico -Titus and Charlotte being entertained by John and the kids.  He is a retired Lutheran minister with a sense of humour, dry wit and vagueness.

Trudy and Brian came in after tea for drinks.  Went home early.  Trudy McIntosh is lovely - just like Miss Piggy with dark hair.  They are expatriates and have been living together for nine years.  They are journalists.

Saturday fifth of December                fine and sunny

Got up fed and dressed to go to the market - all in the van and turn on ignition and - nil, then the whole camp at Valverde became involved - advised in many languages, John quickly became confused - however with Sean in the driver's seat to clutch start and the league of nations pushing we didn't get to start, so John took over driver and another league of Nations pushed and away went the car to much clapping.

At last we must buy a new battery.  Into town with a detour to see Trudy's beach at Praia de Mos and into the market - Sandra, Rae and I were dropped at the market and the boys went off to find a new battery.  We brought some sardines and fish for the barbecue at Trudy's and Brian's van.  They have a char grill and wanted to show us how to cook sardines.  We brought 2 kg - enough bloody sardines to feed the whole camp.  I bought some pure wool to make a jumper - 500 escudos kilo - cost four dollars for my jumper incredible!  We saw all of camp Valverde in Lagos shopping - met up with Titus Charlotte, Ray and  Elaine and all sat and had a drink outside a bar whilst waiting for battery - which costs 4000 escudos.

Back home, I cleaned the hundred sardines and redfin and had just finished, with the assistance of my two apprentice fish cleaners when we were called to lunch at Elaine and Ray's - chunks of bread, tomatoes, olives and sardines (in the tin) and at the very end they bought out Vegemite - well imagine the reaction of this Vegemite starved family.  We all had a slice, much to the amazement of our American friends who I think thought we were mad.

Home to shower after our cleric brought out a hidden tape, the devil.  And out to the funniest barbecue we've been to - Trudy and Brian fought all night - we sat around an Australian campfire like bushies, then when it went out moved over to the bar, where we were joined by five young Australians.  Sean wanted to watch Dallas but fell asleep in the TV room - too many late nights methinks.  It came on too late for Rae - I think the Portuguese are as casual with their TV as with everything else.  Home about 11 p.m. and to sleep.

Sunday, 6th December, 1981                              rain a.m.          fine the p.m.

Got up and prepared to leave.  We are on the road again.  John wanted to go to an airline conference he saw in the "Algarve news" so we were heading for Albuferia.  It was difficult to leave our little community - Sylvia and Dick Emory left first.  Then for two hours we tried to get away.  We had the Dutchman, Ray and Elaine, Titus and Charlotte all detaining us with offers of spaghetti for lunch, a little sunshine from heaven.  Said goodbye to our little German couple next door who are heading home for Christmas soon.

After lots of good-byes we’re on the road again and made Albuferia in good time then trouble began.  Couldn't find the way out of this maze of streets to the camp area.  Eventually found Montichora hotel only to find the conference was last month and the camp area was still in the process of being built.  Lunch outside this multi-storey hotel then headed through Villamora to Quarteira through citrus farms, but dry, arid drought bound area.  Here at Quarteira there are gum trees and stunted black olive trees - not a blade of grass.  The facilities are clean and the little fellow opens the shower for you - as much hot water as you like.

We played our number 1 battle of the van and after a mad dash San & John won.  We are still not decided where and why as it depends on John getting money at American Express in Faro.  God bless.

Monday, 7th December, 1981                        fine and sunny

We got up at 9 a.m. all had a good sleep - needed badly after our continuous social life at Valverde.  Goodbye Quarteira on bumpy road to highway onto Faro where we double parked while Sandra ran into American Express.  Faro is the capital of the Algarve.  

Faro, Portugal

No messages, so on to Monte Gordo where we settled on a piece of hard ground which was hard to find amongst all the sandy patches.  No eucalyptus trees here. 

Between Faro and the camp we saw a large drum on the back of a donkey and cart being filled with diesel.  The old donkey is definitely a handy little animal here.  Along the road a bit was a large sign "accidents for the next hundred metres".

Walked up to beachfront.  All the souvenir vendor's were cut pricing for winter time.  Sandra brought a lovely pure wool cardigan for 400 escudos, half price.  In Lagos I bought enough pure wool to knit a jumper for 300 escudos.  The towns are covered in orange trees but it is a crime to take oranges - they are for the poor.  Home and into bed.  Cold shower for 7 1/2 escudos.

Tuesday, 8th December, 1981                fine

Got up reasonably early to hear London was freezing and they were having a snowstorm.  We had met an Australian couple at the gate when we arrived.  Sylvia and John Martin from Martin's corner Bangalow.  She is a character - migrated 28 years ago still has a broad accent that is a real Aussie at heart.  She did all the driving as he wasn't well.  She set us all up with the info on the camp.  Did a big wash then walked the 4 km up to Villa Real de San Antonio.  During the walk we realised we had put on a little around the waist from our sojourn in Valverde, so its exercise and diet for the next 14 days - walked around the town, then the 4 km home - Rae collecting cones from the pine trees for our Christmas decorations.

Sandra and Sean decided to run every morning now, well they did get up this a.m. and jogged to the beach.

We had a visit from a couple who hope to go to Australia next November.  An English couple Dr John McClintock and wife Betty.  We have been an enigma at the last three camps.  They were most interested in Australia.  Another fellow popped his head in saying "hi cobber". Heaven help us how long since I've heard that and asks had we seen Des O'Keefe from Wagga Wagga.  Early to bed.  Chicken in port for tea.

Wednesday, 9th December, 1981                      rain

First rain in the Algarve during the night - the farmers will be so pleased.  We were on the road by 9 a.m. down to Villa real de San Antonio to the Paca Pouco (shop).  Extremely cheap but we only had enough escudos for ferry ride, brought a tracksuit each - now we know why the Lady attacked me in Leiria - they sell them here for pyjamas - 385 escudos, which is five dollars.  Pulled Rae's tooth while waiting for the ferry - which looked very dubious.  But we made it in the rain and with all garlic fumes from our Spanish passengers.  On to a terrible terrible bumpy road for about 40 km then heaven a smooth ride, well almost into Seville.  Found Ultramar and with all our mail headed for camp Villsom, a beautiful camp with real Seville orange trees everywhere.  Five lovely letters from Karen, tape full of laughs from them all and top 10, a letter from Eileen, Tony and Cathy.  John headed for the Villsom Park we had a great time reading then we read Karen's last one which made all sad again.  Only time will heal.  Sandra was upset all night, the tears will soon go and only happy memories will stay.  It will be hard till Norma’s letter arrives and then again when we arrive home.  To bed.

 

Setubal to Faro, Portugal