Monday, 20 February 2023

Onto the Algarve and Faro, Portugal

Thursday, 26th November, 1981                  sunny and warm

Collected washing from the line - all dried.  Went for a stroll along the beachfront of camping area.  Then started on the long trek to Lagos.  

Decided to have a ferry ride to cut off 20 km for John.  Bumped our way down to Doca de Recrio to the ferry boat.  Sandra asked fellow where is so and so trying to speak Portuguese and he said "oh ferry boat" we drove aboard with fish trucks, taxi and cars plus passengers.  Cost 15 escudos per person plus 150 escudos for the car.  Left the Setubal wharf in the rusty old ferry and sailed smoothly into the centre of Río Sado - you could see the castle and the camp area.  A quick, calm 20 minutes and we arrived at Troia - an unusual town - all modern buildings, Post Office, super Mercado - a complete little village - beautiful smooth roads (unusual in Portugal).  Couldn't find anyone so off we went on the bumpy road through Comporta-Sante Andre.  

Just outside of Santiago de Cacem we stopped for lunch on side of road in the country.  Sean said “here’s a dog mum" Sandra said “his owner probably sent him to spy out the land".  Well a few minutes later we nearly died when down the road came an old man - no teeth, bandy legs, five o'clock beard, dressed in black carrying a basket and beside him a little girl in white.  He had a dozen eggs in an old basket and the little girl held up the paper with 80 escudos on it.  Well after much discussion we bought them and off he went after thanks.  Then about five minutes later we nearly died, back he wobbled with his grandchild and a real live chook in his arms.  Well talk about a hassle - Sean reckons I had said yes I'll have a live chook.  Well after much “no no nil comprende” off he went with his live chook - we nearly had hysterics.  They came from a nice, clean looking house.  The countryside looks better here - and the villages take on a clean painted look - not as neglected looking as further north.  The churches and castles are Gothic and Romanesque here in Portugal and the houses squat, white washed with Moorish style chimneys.  Donkeys are still used a lot here in the hilly country.

On down through Cercal -  the road has not improved - large village of Odemura, Aljezur and down to Lagos - a small village on the water - and went to camp area.  The municipal Parque was grotty and the Ponto de Mos had nothing for the kids so here we are at Praia de Luz at Valverde - a lovely area 20 minutes from the sea and village with a swimming pool, TV room, bar, tennis court and good weather all for 43 escudos each.  We may stay here for a few days.  Sean and Rae have already had a swim.  This area is on the Algarve coast.  It has lots of British and Dutch here in their caravans settled for the winter.

Kids went mad, had a swim and a go on the swings and a long walk to Praia de Luz.  It is a lovely camp and it's great to see the kids frolicking and enjoying themselves.  Met Robert and Cheryl - a couple we met in Madrid - who went the opposite way to us in Spain - they came in for a gossip and drink so it was late before we settled.

Algarve, Portugal

Up fairly early eager to take in sunlight and relaxing day.  Put the washing into the laundress -they do it for 25 escudos a kilo - had to wait till the shop opened for bread and milk for brekkie and I was waiting for the laundress to come at 9 a.m. and they were halfway talking - they are so casual doesn't matter if they are 15 minutes late.  

After breakfast went to ring Karen - you approached the Portuguese telephone service with trepidation - takes about two hours for a phone call.  They knit and talk and you fume.  Well it only took two hours from woe to go - was great to hear Karen's voice and know she is okay and Tony, it must have been traumatic - funny all we were doing was worrying about them and all they were doing was worrying about us.  Time should start to heal now we have spoken to Karen.  Packed up and headed for the pool and have been here since 11:30 a.m.  There is a slight breeze from the Gulf but the Costa de Sol is trying hard to please us.

Rae and Sean have frolicked in the water nearly all the time - San did two laps with determination to lose weight but the cold and exertion was too much - she came out chilled all over.  I thought she would faint, so easy does it for her tomorrow.  They are all going to play tennis later on with Robert and Cheryl.  Have written to Karen, Bev, Ian and Libby.

Saw a funny thing at the Bath's - lazing in the sun we noticed this old fellow breast stroking an up-and-down baths.  I had spoken to him earliert in the day.  The next thing he ran up the baths - stopped, looked and tore down the side again giving off a loud flatus.

Decided we would have a pizza for tea, drove a few kilometres to the village of Praia da Luz right on to the beach, ordered our food and was entertained by the Barman whilst we waited.

Sandra had half the chicken, I had fish fillets, chips and salad, Sean, John and Rae had pizzas.  We discovered piri-piri sauce made from chilli - blow your mind!

Robert and Cheryl came in for another evening.

Saturday, 28th November, 1981               fine with wind             22°

I woke early in answer to bodily functions and a beautiful day.  Decided to go into Lagos by bus - then by car. Just as well as we were heavily laden from the markets.  Had a good morning amongst the fruit, veggies and nuts.  Still can't abide the fish markets - the odour is too much for me.  Brought lovely fresh tomatoes, salad greens, oranges and mandarins.  Strolled around Lagos buying sun hats -180 escudos - to cope with the beautiful sunlight here by the pool.  

Praia de Luz

Found a nice open-air bar, had a mineral water whilst basking in the sun.  Then stocked up on our larder at the only supermarket.  Because there are so many English-speaking people here the shelves abound with all the goodies we know, but too dear.  Strolled round clothing market, beautiful jumpers, tablecloths.  Brought three small towels -70 escudos each - to supplement the linen cupboard.  Then home to lunch by the pool and a day of rest.

John went over to the bar.  We all (kids and I) strolled across to the TV lounge.  Watched a little Portuguese entertainment.  Didn't need words, could follow the actions - home to bed.

Sunday, 29th November, 1981                  fine and windy

After a sleep in we are all happy now the specialist in Lisbon treatment has brought results for Sandra.  Decided to have a lazy day - found a spot out of the breeze and got on with my scrapbook.  I still have the UK to do.  A little friend is performing again for us this time with a skipping rope -everyone is so friendly here.  Staff and campers.  Said goodbye yesterday to Cheryl and Robert.  Decided to walk down to the village to 5 p.m. Mass.  John had been for a walk and found that info out.  Anyway Sandra, John and I showered and strolled down the narrow village road to Praia da Luz.  

Praia de Luz

Lovely old church but no priest or parishioners so strolled down to the beach, had a cappuccino.  Not many make it here.  Then walked home about 20 minutes.  We met an English couple-Graham and Christine with their little 18 month-old Danielle-they are on holidays in a larger van than ours and Christine is 33 weeks pregnant-game?  Returning home on 17th of December.

After tea we walked across to the bar-kids love that and had a coffee, a chat with Trudy and Brian-expatriate's and Graham and then home to bed.

Every able male has a little 2 stroke and you hear-putt putt- all day and night-one way to get around on the narrow roads.

 Monday, 30th November, 1981                    fine

The nice weather continues to hold.  Decided we would join John on the beach but was too chilly for any length of time.  The kids dug holes and generally had a good time whilst I strolled along the beach and waves.  As it was a holiday on Tuesday -  tomorrow -  we had to buy food.

Back to lunch (salad, doorstops & ham) by the pool, a swim.  Have met some nice people here so we are fortunate to have company.  Washed and had a reasonably early night after Sean and I won the battle of the van at 500.  We have afternoon free. Tea.

Tuesday, 1st December, 1981                        fine      22°

Still fine, warm weather - I sent Rae into the bar whilst we were lazing by the pool playing 500 - for 3 mineral waters and some Batata fritters, expecting a bag of chips - instead out came a large plate of hot chips, waited on and all for 50 escudos - about $.60.  A holiday today so we are lounging by the pool - very hot.  Brian and Trudy - the expats - are here, also our English friends Christine and Graham and their little one who is toddling around the pool - Christine has only seven weeks to go and they are far from home.  Trudy is a great one on recipes so Sandra has found a soothing hobby copying recipes ready for a culinary attack on the family.

Trudy is a lovely person - we should see some more of them on the road.  John took us to the camp restaurant for tea - very nice.  Had a bad time ordering, ended up with two extra plates of hot chips.  Sandra and I had shrimp cocktail - beautiful - and ham omelette.  The kids had veal, rice and chips and pork slices, chips and rice.  We ended evening having coffee with Trudy and Brian - lots of laughs.

Wednesday, 2nd December 1981                  fine but cool wind

Twenty three days to go til Christmas.  Decided to go into Lagos to shop.  The boys stayed home whilst we braved the speedway.  The bus was nice - a real tourist bus, but the driver was trying to beat the fellow in Lisbon I think.  

We had fun in the markets, strolled around with our American friends - they had arrived the night before and were staying at Trinidad, not a very nice one.  By the time we arrived home they were here to camp, after our big wrap up.  Sandra brought a hand-painted plate, me a spoon.  Looked at the linen which was very cheap and nice here -  and caught the bus home.  Walked down to Praia da Luz to the chemists, bought Sandra some ferri-gradumet to put some pep in her steps.  Home to try one of Trudy's recipes - chicken and almonds in port - very nice too with a few Romeril and Marsden additives - good comments from the boys and Rae. The BBC came in good tonight as boys fixed the connection and we heard number one "begin the Begin” in Spanish. Also chapter 10 of "Lord of the flies". We have heard over the four months "Wuthering Heights" and nearly every night "Take it or leave it".  Sean reckons the two teams are dumb as they still don't know the answers.

Thursday, 3rd December, 1981               fine

We live so well - bran and yoghurt for breakfast - ham and tomato rolls for lunch and chicken and veggies for tea, wine with every meal - and sunshine - who could ask for anything more?  Sandra and John went into Lagos so I finished my scrapbook thank goodness, it is now up-to-date.  We lunched and lazed by the pool.  Sean and I were shouted our afternoon tea as our card prize - coffee and ice cream cake by the pool.  Talking takes a lot of time here - to walk to the toilet block it takes an hour if you stop and speak to everyone - really a league of Nations.  Ray and Elaine have just arrived (Australians) Dick Emory - Francis and Bob the Canadians, Sue and Wally uncle?  And niece?  From England - Charlotte and Titus Scholl, the Americans.

Last night we tried a Portuguese dish - Bacalhau - a salted fish - which had to be soaked for 24 hours.  I held it in the bus coming home from Lagos and I kept twitching my nose - the smell was incredible - but the locals didn't even notice.  Anyway poor Sandra started to cook it about 3 PM yesterday - every time she started we had visitors.  Then Sue next door called us in for a cuppa - then when she did get started we all took off as it was a fiddly dish but the outcome - it was delicious, so that’s two local dishes we like.

Friday, 4th December, 1981                 fine and sunny

The English couple next to us are so outspoken and not very tactful - said they hadn't met any Australians who were educated and brown.  A couple of whingers we think.

Have an exciting day down to bank this p.m.  The bank closed at 2:30 p.m. and we left here at 2:15 p.m. for the 1 1/2 kilometres run.  Ray and Elaine tooted us and picked us up then we didn't know the way to the bank - pulled up and asked a local - he was so polite, picked him up too and he directed us and just in time - they closed the doors as we entered.  Were there 20 minutes - they are so casual.

We shopped, then strolled home to find new friends from New Mexico -Titus and Charlotte being entertained by John and the kids.  He is a retired Lutheran minister with a sense of humour, dry wit and vagueness.

Trudy and Brian came in after tea for drinks.  Went home early.  Trudy McIntosh is lovely - just like Miss Piggy with dark hair.  They are expatriates and have been living together for nine years.  They are journalists.

Saturday fifth of December                fine and sunny

Got up fed and dressed to go to the market - all in the van and turn on ignition and - nil, then the whole camp at Valverde became involved - advised in many languages, John quickly became confused - however with Sean in the driver's seat to clutch start and the league of nations pushing we didn't get to start, so John took over driver and another league of Nations pushed and away went the car to much clapping.

At last we must buy a new battery.  Into town with a detour to see Trudy's beach at Praia de Mos and into the market - Sandra, Rae and I were dropped at the market and the boys went off to find a new battery.  We brought some sardines and fish for the barbecue at Trudy's and Brian's van.  They have a char grill and wanted to show us how to cook sardines.  We brought 2 kg - enough bloody sardines to feed the whole camp.  I bought some pure wool to make a jumper - 500 escudos kilo - cost four dollars for my jumper incredible!  We saw all of camp Valverde in Lagos shopping - met up with Titus Charlotte, Ray and  Elaine and all sat and had a drink outside a bar whilst waiting for battery - which costs 4000 escudos.

Back home, I cleaned the hundred sardines and redfin and had just finished, with the assistance of my two apprentice fish cleaners when we were called to lunch at Elaine and Ray's - chunks of bread, tomatoes, olives and sardines (in the tin) and at the very end they bought out Vegemite - well imagine the reaction of this Vegemite starved family.  We all had a slice, much to the amazement of our American friends who I think thought we were mad.

Home to shower after our cleric brought out a hidden tape, the devil.  And out to the funniest barbecue we've been to - Trudy and Brian fought all night - we sat around an Australian campfire like bushies, then when it went out moved over to the bar, where we were joined by five young Australians.  Sean wanted to watch Dallas but fell asleep in the TV room - too many late nights methinks.  It came on too late for Rae - I think the Portuguese are as casual with their TV as with everything else.  Home about 11 p.m. and to sleep.

Sunday, 6th December, 1981                              rain a.m.          fine the p.m.

Got up and prepared to leave.  We are on the road again.  John wanted to go to an airline conference he saw in the "Algarve news" so we were heading for Albuferia.  It was difficult to leave our little community - Sylvia and Dick Emory left first.  Then for two hours we tried to get away.  We had the Dutchman, Ray and Elaine, Titus and Charlotte all detaining us with offers of spaghetti for lunch, a little sunshine from heaven.  Said goodbye to our little German couple next door who are heading home for Christmas soon.

After lots of good-byes we’re on the road again and made Albuferia in good time then trouble began.  Couldn't find the way out of this maze of streets to the camp area.  Eventually found Montichora hotel only to find the conference was last month and the camp area was still in the process of being built.  Lunch outside this multi-storey hotel then headed through Villamora to Quarteira through citrus farms, but dry, arid drought bound area.  Here at Quarteira there are gum trees and stunted black olive trees - not a blade of grass.  The facilities are clean and the little fellow opens the shower for you - as much hot water as you like.

We played our number 1 battle of the van and after a mad dash San & John won.  We are still not decided where and why as it depends on John getting money at American Express in Faro.  God bless.

Monday, 7th December, 1981                        fine and sunny

We got up at 9 a.m. all had a good sleep - needed badly after our continuous social life at Valverde.  Goodbye Quarteira on bumpy road to highway onto Faro where we double parked while Sandra ran into American Express.  Faro is the capital of the Algarve.  

Faro, Portugal

No messages, so on to Monte Gordo where we settled on a piece of hard ground which was hard to find amongst all the sandy patches.  No eucalyptus trees here. 

Between Faro and the camp we saw a large drum on the back of a donkey and cart being filled with diesel.  The old donkey is definitely a handy little animal here.  Along the road a bit was a large sign "accidents for the next hundred metres".

Walked up to beachfront.  All the souvenir vendor's were cut pricing for winter time.  Sandra brought a lovely pure wool cardigan for 400 escudos, half price.  In Lagos I bought enough pure wool to knit a jumper for 300 escudos.  The towns are covered in orange trees but it is a crime to take oranges - they are for the poor.  Home and into bed.  Cold shower for 7 1/2 escudos.

Tuesday, 8th December, 1981                fine

Got up reasonably early to hear London was freezing and they were having a snowstorm.  We had met an Australian couple at the gate when we arrived.  Sylvia and John Martin from Martin's corner Bangalow.  She is a character - migrated 28 years ago still has a broad accent that is a real Aussie at heart.  She did all the driving as he wasn't well.  She set us all up with the info on the camp.  Did a big wash then walked the 4 km up to Villa Real de San Antonio.  During the walk we realised we had put on a little around the waist from our sojourn in Valverde, so its exercise and diet for the next 14 days - walked around the town, then the 4 km home - Rae collecting cones from the pine trees for our Christmas decorations.

Sandra and Sean decided to run every morning now, well they did get up this a.m. and jogged to the beach.

We had a visit from a couple who hope to go to Australia next November.  An English couple Dr John McClintock and wife Betty.  We have been an enigma at the last three camps.  They were most interested in Australia.  Another fellow popped his head in saying "hi cobber". Heaven help us how long since I've heard that and asks had we seen Des O'Keefe from Wagga Wagga.  Early to bed.  Chicken in port for tea.

Wednesday, 9th December, 1981                      rain

First rain in the Algarve during the night - the farmers will be so pleased.  We were on the road by 9 a.m. down to Villa real de San Antonio to the Paca Pouco (shop).  Extremely cheap but we only had enough escudos for ferry ride, brought a tracksuit each - now we know why the Lady attacked me in Leiria - they sell them here for pyjamas - 385 escudos, which is five dollars.  Pulled Rae's tooth while waiting for the ferry - which looked very dubious.  But we made it in the rain and with all garlic fumes from our Spanish passengers.  On to a terrible terrible bumpy road for about 40 km then heaven a smooth ride, well almost into Seville.  Found Ultramar and with all our mail headed for camp Villsom, a beautiful camp with real Seville orange trees everywhere.  Five lovely letters from Karen, tape full of laughs from them all and top 10, a letter from Eileen, Tony and Cathy.  John headed for the Villsom Park we had a great time reading then we read Karen's last one which made all sad again.  Only time will heal.  Sandra was upset all night, the tears will soon go and only happy memories will stay.  It will be hard till Norma’s letter arrives and then again when we arrive home.  To bed.

 

Setubal to Faro, Portugal


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