Loch Lomond to Inverness

Friday the 28th August, 1981                       Fine hot & sunny

Breakfast, showered and walked through town again to browse through antique shops.  Had coffee and began our trek to Loch Lomond.  I love the lyrical voices of the Scot - can't understand him but we managed to communicate.  The land and houses are different.  Land is more barren and far more forestry, houses are symmetrical and uninteresting.  Radio Scotland brings a giggle from us with it's staid programs, but Scotland promises to be interesting as we head north. 

Along the highway (A86) with heavy trucks and fast cars passing us rapidly, we trundled into Glasgow - an industrial, drab city, old buildings without character, acres and acres of housing.  Homes are great grey stone buildings.  We found American Express, collected a much looked forward to letter from Karen - our first contact with home - and continued on our way to Loch Lomond.  We had lunch on the A86 with heather all around us.

At Dumbarton we pulled into a garage to have the battery checked, the little redheaded mechanic was most obliging but we couldn't understand a word he said, we all looked at each other and somewhere in Sandra's brain a word clicked and we all vacated van which was what he wanted us to do.

With acid added to the cells we were on the road again to Loch Lomond.  Five minutes later we saw the Loch. 

Words can hardly describe this place.  A light mist lay over the whole of the lake given a blue hue.  The water is so still it is the reflection from the hills pictured in the still waters.

So here we are in Loch Lomond-caravan park ₤3 with the beautiful scenery around and horrible little midges eating us alive.  We had one awful 10 minutes at dusk when we couldn't find the repellent.  The weather continues to be beautiful and fine.

Sunday, 29th of August, 1981                  fine & misty

On the road early this a.m.  The Loch is still covered in the blue mist; it’s peculiar because the mist is only on the water and above it.  Ben Lomond's outline could be seen in the mist it is very mystical and awesome feeling being here early morn, no wonder the Scots can define their feelings in the bagpipe.

Loch Lomond is 23 miles long and 1.5 miles wide with 30 isles dotting the loch.  On the high lands we noticed pipers selling their wares and playing the bagpipes high above the high lands with only the passing cars to keep them company.

Cataracts poured their crystal clear ice cold water down the hill sides as we passed by.  Over the high lands and through to Glencoe.  

Here we stopped for morning tea to visit the Glencoe Museum.  Here in 1750 the posse of Campbell’s massacred the MacDonald clan after being given rest and food for 12 days.  I love the names we are now coming upon.  “Allt –Nan- Ros” hotel - “Inchree-tick a nick” all Scottish flavours.

We paused at Ft William - they were having a tarbundy (a carnival) on Loch Linnie.  It is a small town with the largest mountain in Scotland shading it.  Ben Nevis is 1343 feet above sea level.  Ski lifts dotted the side of all mountains and we passed.  We saw so many hikers and cyclists.  The Scots people are very health-conscious - they have such lovely places to go.  Travelled along Loch Lochy - all the lochs were like glass - not a breath of air disturbed the surface. On to Ft Augusta - there is an ancient abbey here.  We walked over to see if the lochs were working but all the boats had passed down for the day.

About another hours motoring brought us to Loch Ness - here all eyes were out to find the illusive monster but no luck.  We saw Castle Urquhart and Loch Ness Museum plus the camp at Inverness but nothing else here.

Sunday, the 30th of August

Here we are for a day's break from travelling.  We are in Inverness camping area - the nicest we have been in.  Plenty of entertainment around for all.  All I wanted to do is sleep and read but have so much to do with writing, sending cards, cleaning van and washing.  Last night Sandra took Sean and Rae across the road to a pleasure fair; prices were cheaper; prizes mean but the kids had a great time - came home laden with posters and gonks.  Sandra came home tired.  John went to the Ice Rink hotel next door.  As we settled to sleep a riot developed in the streets nearby - police quickly broke it up.  Besides the fair is a go-kart-minigolf and ice skating rink.

The ice cream van called Mr Softice plays William Tell to attract attention.  You can find them and T-bar bands anywhere from the top of the highlands to the shores of the lochs, down small lanes, on highways, anywhere tourists may pass.

After cleanup we drove out to Culloden, where in 1746 Bonnie Prince Charles fought his last fight against the English Hanoverians under Lord Cumberland.  Hundreds fell and Charles was hunted till he flew Gaelic shores and went to France.  The Jacobites built a cairn in memory of the fallen ones.

We had lunch there after seeing a movie on Scots history.  Now I know why I had an adverse reaction to "have you any books on kings and queens of England?"

We returned to camp, children hired bikes for £1.5 for 5 hours.  We all went for a walk along the river Ness whilst children rode bikes without worrying pedestrians.  We crossed a suspension bridge to isles in the middle of the river which brought us out into town.  Strolled round town then came home to bacon and scrambled eggs tea.  We are having leakage with the gas so it was a nervous cook and assistant.  After tea we strolled across and had a game of minigolf.  A laugh a minute.  Set in a beautiful rose garden - the tees were made of fibro.  We noticed so much here and in England, are cheaply made but attract many visitors in summer.

Sean came home with a piece of white heather - very scarce, but he had picked it from a museum's garden.  Wonder we didn't end up in jail.

 Written on a memorial in Inverness

 Fear not that I have for nought

The torch ye through to us is caught by

10,000 hands

And freedoms light shall ever be high

We’ve learned the lesson that ye have taught

In Flanders field

Loch Lomond to Inverness

Richmond - touring with George - and onto Scotland

 Tuesday, the 25th August, 1981

We left the camp site by 9:30 a.m. into Richmond to find the darned optician.  Believe it or not he wasn't in again.  Had a stroll round looking at antique shops.  Sandra bought 2 Queen Victoria plates, then back to Brompton on Swale for lunch.  We are delighting in the cheese and pickles at the moment.  Can buy food from all the continent here - French yogurt, Spanish figs, cheeses from everywhere.  George picked us up in his 10-year old Bentley and we drove off into the country towards the sea.  Through flat countryside we went to Newham Grange farm, quite a unique farm as it has rare breeds of farm animals which are in danger of becoming extinct.

 

Touring in George's Bentley 1981

We spent a pleasant two hours strolling round with our pleasant host, then he drove us on to Captain Cook's birthplace at Marton, the museum is the starting point of the Captain Cook Heritage Trail.  It is set in beautiful surroundings - Park and Lake of Stewart Park, Middlesborough close to the site where James Cook was born.  It has won quite a few major awards, and it is well worth a visit.  Very well done and very informative.  As John was going out with George to Rotary we headed for home about 5:30 p.m.

George, Rachelle and Sandra at Captain Cook Museum 1981

Wednesday the 26th August 1981

Another fine and hot day.  We travelled to the Lakes district with George and his nephew Ian.  Left Brompton on Swale about 8:30 a.m.  Sean elected to ride in the Bentley.  Set off on a nice long trip to George's pad in Coniston Lakes about 10 a.m. We stopped at various little pubs on the way.  Apparently this is a ritual, each one had its own beautiful setting.  Had morning tea at Kirkby Stephen - a clean little village.  Then on to Windermere to meet the rest of the party.  As it is still holidays and splendid weather the village was crowded.  It is situated on the lake surrounded by hills.  Very commercialised - lots of hire boats etc.

We continued around the Valley - stone walls lined either side of the road. This time the structural fence and house change.  Grey slate very effective.

A short pause at the Priory Tavern for a drink or two, then on to Skelwith Bridge for a Ploughman’s lunch for seven.  I disgraced the party when the waitress sang out seven Ploughmen’s and I answered in my Aussie twang.

And then through Coniston, to Brown Howe House "Tanglewood" George's name for a quarter of this 17th century old home, a once beautiful home in a rainforest area set on Coniston Lake - breathtaking!  After a cuppa we walked down to the stone quay.  The boys brought the sailboat in and we had a terrific afternoon sailing.  Liz and Jackie arrived and we had high tea.

Donald Campbell made his last bid for a record here in the Lakes outside "Tanglewood".  There is a memorial of rest for him in Coniston.

We were to stay the night at "Tanglewood" compliments of George - but after the Shaw family left we all felt the ghosts had returned to look us over.  The darker it got the scarier the place felt - musty smells from a past pervaded every corner.  After we all showered a unanimous vote of silence to evacuate spurred us on to pack and leave (much to John's disgust) we tumbled out into the pitch black, moonless night fumbled for a weak Woollies torch turned the antiquated key in lock and stumbled off down the path to the van, overhanging branches set off screams when touched.  I had three leeches clinging to me as we stopped and slithered down the path.  Phew, at last safety of the van- then much to our chagrin the engine wouldn't fire - well evthe road and into Coniston where we free camped next to half a dozen truckies and Donald Campbell's monument.

Thursday, the 27th August, 1981

Bright and warm again, went back to "Tanglewood", cleared the ghosts and collected our things and headed for Scotland.  Very beautiful countryside as we weaved up and down dales through to Ambleside.  The scenic drive is breathtaking, Heather on top of all hills.  It grows in sweet profusion as we head for Scotland and near her border.

As lunchtime approached we turned off at Cumbria to see Long Meg and her daughters.  A Druid saga.  

Long Meg and her daughter, Cumbria 1981

One large monolith and about 68 -- 70 round rocks all in a circle.  The legend goes that no one ever gets the same number of rocks no matter how many times you walk around and count.  We proved this - all differed.

Off after lunch we were nearly in Scotland.  At 2:30 p.m. we crossed the border into Scotland.  Rae ran across the border to be first on Scottish soil.  

Gretna Green 1981

Took photos of Gretna Green then continued on to Moffat a lovely little town with a huge church in the centre of the city.  It is the centre of the weaving industry.  We saw tartan skirts being made, and then went through the weaving Mills.  A big industry selling everything from suits to "tam o shanties".  Found a nice clean caravan park - more expensive than anywhere but worth it £1.60.  Showered and went for a drink to the Black Bull Inn in town.

Richmond, Yorkshire to Gretna Green, Scotland

Yorkshire to Richmond

 Saturday 22nd of August, 1981

After breakfast we were off and eager to see the rest of York.  All slept well despite all our ghost stories and visits to mysterious churches, medieval Saxon and Roman haunts.  

The camp is situated on the banks of the Ouse, a short walk to town through the wall.  York is a city full of English history; the town centre is still full of times gone by.  It is surrounded by a wall built in the 13th century.  Buildings have been discovered to prove Romans occupied Eboracum in 71 AD.  In the seventh century Saxons settled within the fortress walls.  The little wooden church built on the site was the first York Minster.  In 867 AD York fell to the Danish invaders, some old streets and their names date from this era.  Goodramgate Street, Shamblesgate.  Danish kings of York reigned till 944 AD.  In 1066 AD William the Conqueror came north to subdue the rebellion in York.

Stone city walls and gates were built in the 13th century.  Medieval streets and shops still are preserved in the city centre.  The present Minster was begun by Archbishop Grey in 1220 but was finished in 1472.

York Minster is the largest one in the United Kingdom and second-largest in the whole of Europe.  Great spires reach high into the air, dwarfing large buildings beside it.  Built of white stone the carving in both wood and stone is only a small insight into the magnificent craft of the tradesmen.  It is just too awesome to believe that this building has stood for 600 years with only minor restoration.

After tea we showered then went for a walk around the city wall, 4.35 miles and we did it in an hour. 

York Minster at night from the wall

So much to see and do in this grand city but tomorrow we move on towards Richmond.

 

Sunday 23rd of August, 1981

We broke camp and were on the road by 8:45 a.m.  The streets were deserted this early but will probably throb with people later on.  Took a last film of Micklegate.

York, UK

Then headed for the Yorkshire Dales - no doubt a Sunday drive for most Britons, but a long 116 miles day-long tour across Dales for us.  Scenery was out of this world and so were we quite a few times when we were nose to nose with another vehicle in the narrow lanes.  Tempers flared?  Most lanes were lined with stone fences - all the paddocks were divided also with stone divides and wooden gates.  Heather coloured, the top of the Dales in deep mauve and the grass is greener here than anywhere seen so far.

We stopped at Applewick a very small village which has a lovely little pub and a river ran through the centre.  Slowly made our way to Thresfield where we had our lunch outside a 1506 Church - all the villages have used gray brick locally quarried I have found.

We drove through the national park - beautiful countryside.  The river Ure runs over cobbled river bed, people laze on the grassy slopes.  I think all of England is out in these moors today and why not, the sun is shining and though the locals strip to idolise the Sun, God we have long sleeves on.  We stopped at Arncliffe but didn't stay - an ugly little village - decay and neglect everywhere, the first one we have seen like this!

With great delight we came down out of the moors and Dales into Hawes, a fertiliser smell pervaded the car.  Sean said it was the drivers of the cars we had held up for so long coming down narrow lanes who had dirtied their pants.  Hawes is a clean town - everyone we have met have been so helpful and interested in our trip and Australia.  Found a park at Swale outside of Richmond and settled.  Then went into town and found a delightful cafe that served high tea.  Fish and chips or salad, apple pie and cream, B and B and a big pot of tea for £2 a head - and very satisfying!  A walk around the Market Square and home to bed to read and sleep. 

Monday the 24th August, 1981

The day dawned sunny and clear, not a cloud in the sky - the area the camp is in has the river Swale trickling through it, also Brompton on Swale where we are booked into tonight.  Cobblestones line river bed as the river passes by it is very low-rainfall, hasn't been up to normal this summer.  We had breakfast, showered and drove the 3 miles into town.  It is hard to rethink imperial system.  Two hours at laundromat (mundane things must be done) a walk around the antique shops, obtaining nice bargains in some plates, a seat in the sun at the obelisk.  

Brompton on Swale caravan park

The Market Square is cobblestones all the way, parking in centre, a large obelisk stands majestically in the centre - the ruins of Richmond Castle forms part of the town.  It has a history of William the Conqueror building it as a fortress in 1069.  It has not been preserved as well as other castles.

In the afternoon we visited friends of San and John - Enid and George Shaw, a delightful couple who have a brother living in Coffs Harbour.  Their daughter Liz & niece Jackie from America came to tea and we had a delightful evening not wanting to come home but Rachelle set the pace when she fell asleep at midnight.  Splendid!

Today we are having another trip into town and George is taking us for a drive.

York to Richmond UK

Lincolnshire to Yorkshire

 Thursday the 20th August, 1981

We broke camp and were on our way by 8:30 a.m.  Took the road into Stamford, and put van into the garage and went for walk.  Beautiful town - the streets are narrow, steep and winding.  The buildings stately cream in Elizabethan style. 

A beautiful old church graces the centre of the town.  We walked along older streets, awed by the atmosphere.  Do the English realise what they have?  We had morning coffee in the most antiquated tearoom - beautiful pictures graced every wall.  Picked up the van and on our way to Burghley Castle.  It is some miles out of town.  The George Inn was built by the Lord Burghley.  Methinks the town must have been the village to the Burghley Manor house. 

Burghley House, Lincolnshire, England

The castle is a magnificent building of 240 rooms, built by the first Marquess of Exeter who was exchequer to Queen Elizabeth.  The 8^th Marquess still lives downstairs with his family.  

The castle is full of historic paintings, artefacts and history.  Very opulent but rewarding - the grounds are magnificent - the private garden protected by two trees one planted by Queen Elizabeth the first and one in 1679.

On to town and lunch in the car park where we met the Fontana's.  Then on we drove to Oakman near Cottesmore RAF base.  Jet planes flew overhead all morning.

We drove through lovely small villages.  We avoid major roads where possible - the aspect has changed again, hedges lined narrow roads and divide plots of land all rich in growth small villages gardens bloom with summer flowers and ancient trees bowed down as if to say hello or welcome.

Southwell - a town rich in history and the beautiful church of Our Lady graces the centre of town.  It has twin towers in a Norman edifice built in 1100.  Ancient trees graced the grounds - across the road stands the "Saracens Head Inn” where Charles the first gave himself up to his ministers in 1646.  He was beheaded in 1649.

James the first and many more monarchs stayed there on their way to London.  After Charles was beheaded they changed the name from "The Kings Arms" to "Saracens Head".  A pleasant afternoon then on to Sherwood Forest.  A walk around the perimeter of the forest.  A photo of a magnificent old oak tree called Major Oak presumed to be 500 years old still producing acorns every three years.  Then on to our nightly camp at Clipstone and a few miles from the forest.  This is Robin Hood country.

Major Oak, Sherwood Forest

 Friday the 21st August, 1981

We were up at 7.30am.  Showered, breakfast and away at 8:45 a.m.  It was a nice camping area - camped next to Australians from Woy Woy.  Washing machine and dryer unavailable so did one load.  We were then off up north towards Scotland.  

At first to Conisbrough Castle - meaning Kings bunks which were Saxon defended sites built by Norman's against the Danes.  Built about 1088AD and owned by William de Warenne, first Earl of Surrey.  Sandra suffered a migraine so stayed in van.  We all trudged up the steep slope to Castle stairs.  Spent half an hour there and then on to Selby through Doncaster a large industrial town.  Modern buildings, little left of times gone by.

We reached Selby in time for lunch.  Crossed an 18th century toll Bridge where we had to pay 4 p to cross the river Ouse.  Selby Abbey, a beautiful old 11th century abbey beautifully preserved stands in the middle of town.  A pleasant hour reading the history of this lovely old abbey.

 On then to Stamford Bridge, another old bridge over the river Ouse where the battle of Stamford Bridge was held in 1066.  The English people still amaze us because of their ignorance of the history surrounding them.  On through small towns to the main highway and on to York.

York, North Yorkshire, England

Beautiful, interesting York where we intend to stay two days to take in this beautiful city, which has a known history from 71 AD.  The ancient historian Ptolemy mentions Eboracum (now York) where the Romans set up camp where two rivers met - the Ouse and the Foss.  

Hadrian used York as a base for his campaigns northwards.  The huge wall still runs almost around the city.  The walls and the gates were built in the 13th century.  A great abbey and Priory were built and York became one of the main religious centres of England.

We found a camping site in the centre of town and walked up to the museum.  We walked up 60 steps to see the Keep then went over to see York Museum.  The museum commenced when a physician donated all his artefacts to the museum.  They were from many of his family's generations.  They now have a museum that can date back to the beginning of York.  All produced authentically, cobbled streets, apothecary and all types of shops and ways of living for generations past.  From the Romans through to 1953.  We came home and showered and fell asleep tired out.

No we didn't go to sleep! - we went out on a ghost walk of the town.

Ring a ring a rosey nursery rhyme originated here thru the Black Plague. Dick Turpin & Guy Fawkes born in York.

York Ghost Walk