Dunfirmlan to Melrose, Scotland

 Wednesday, 2nd September, 1981                      overcast and cool

Up and off about 9:45 a.m. towards Edinburgh.  We drove to Dunfirmlane hoping to see some ancient castles and Robert the Bruce's burial place.  It used to be the Scot capital for six centuries but we couldn't park so we drove round the roundabout and off to Cuross - a lovely little village on the Firth of Forth - the tide was out again.  

This little town has quite a history.  The legend goes a princess was cast out and came to land here, the natives gave her succour and her son was born.  He became quite a figure in Scotland's history.  Established Dunfirmlane as capital.  Cuross traded only with the Scandinavians with their coal for many years.  The Dutch influence is still great, homes and furniture.  They have preserved the village as it used to be - cobbled streets and stone made homes abutting the road.  Public institutions are helping to preserve besides private individuals. S.R.C.C. have a base in one of the homes.  The shops sell modern where in ancient shops and homes are kept in ancient facade with a modern-day living.

We lunched there then moved on to Edinburgh - across Forth Bridge to city and out again to camping area. 

Forth Bridge, Edinburgh, Scotland

We cleaned up and caught a bus into town - 20p adults; 8p children.  It was about a 20 minutes ride.  We were lucky enough to buy tickets to the Edinburgh Tattoo £4 .00 - couldn't believe our luck!  We walked around town, found a place to eat and as the Tattoo didn't commence till 9 p.m. we strolled around watching the world go by.  Down a side street we found a shop that sold hot potatoes with a choice of any salad or food in it.  John, Sean and Rae loved them.  We stood in the square near the art museum and watched and listened to buskers, artists doing pencil portraits or witnessed some of the youth of today make noise just for the sake of it.

Kids with skinned heads, or hair dyed orange, purple and green or dark plum.  Religious groups trying to deliver their message above all din.  Fascinating but soon had to join the crowd towards the Edinburgh castle.  Well what an experience. We strolled up about 8:10 p.m. joined the line 1 mile long and waited for another 40 minutes.  Then off the line moved.  At one stage we thought we would be crushed to death.  

It took about 10 minutes to be swept up around and along to the stadium built high above the castle.  We finally were in our seats south side Area C Row V.  We sat way up high above everyone.  A magnificent view of all before us.  The tattoo commenced with the pipe band playing music from other Commonwealth nations.  "Waltzing Matilda" brought a great clap from us and all around we had Aussies (sitting next to us from Newcastle) - above us and below.  What a lovely balmy night - didn't need our coats at all.  We had one and half hours of great entertainment.  Tears ran down my face when the pipes played way up on the top of the castle.  We had police bands, pipe bands, regimental bands and Parachute Regt.  The lone piper played "The mist covered the mountains" terrific!

Police dogs showed us their prowess, Canada was the country featured this year - a wonderful display of Canadiana.

On the way out we had to move with the crowd as we had a bus to catch.  We couldn't miss it because it was quite a way to walk.  Eventually we broke out of the sardine tin and caught a bus home - very late and a very tired.

Thursday, 3rd September, 1981

John left early to ring Bob re business.  We stirred our weary bodies towards the 10:30 bus.  I wasn't feeling too happy as this is the third anniversary of Viv’s untimely death and the day before we had had a letter from Tony and Billy telling us Margaret (my sister)  had had a coronary.  I felt so helpless, but the kids are good - keep me busy and on the go - no time for self-pity.  We had a lovely day in town.  Met John - he had spoken to Karen - all is well at home.  Margaret was improving so we headed to the castle to see it by day.  It is a military exercise and therefore in good condition.

We had a lunch up there then walked the Royal mile to "Hollyrood Castle". 

Hollyrood Castle, Edinburgh, Scotland

We were disappointed not to see inside but being very tired headed for the bus and home.

Edinburgh is two cities - the new, with new fine buildings and the old city behind the castle walls.  Shops thrive along cobbled streets.  Princes Street in the new part is said to be one of the prettiest streets and a showpiece in UK.  Certainly an exciting street.

Had some excitement early a.m. after an early night.  We all work to beep beep beep -a burglar alarm went off in car next to ours.  Apparently someone stole jeans and keys out of the tent and tried to break into the car.  The patrol car was there in minutes - comforting and made us aware there are mean people in the world besides so many good.

We did see childhood museum when walking the Royal mile - Canongate - from very early mediaeval years through to 1960.  Toys, food, clothes - very well done!  To see the craftsmanship of the dolls and toys was incredible.

Friday, 4th September, 1981                    cool and windy

Had breakfast and then a ride around unseen parts of the city - then headed for the Royal areas. 

Edinburgh, Scotland

We found a park near Waverley railway station whilst John went to ring Bob.  He had been derailed at Sydney so San had a chat to Karen - felt elated with contact from home.  Margaret still on the mend.  Whilst waiting we witnessed the pipers practising for their walk down Princes Street.  The festival goes for some weeks and every morning at 11 a.m. one of the pipe bands walked down Princes Street.  Everything stops to watch and listen. 

Princes Street is said to be the most beautiful and a showpiece in the UK.  It certainly is a beautiful street.

Princes Street, Edinburgh

Whilst in the city some expats came up and spoke to us - they are here for 12 months on a working holiday. 

On our way then to Dalkeith - Traquair House - a 10th century home that had housed 27 Kings and Queens of the UK.  

Traquair House, Edinburgh - Scotland's oldest inhabited house

Sir Walter Scott wrote “the gates wouldn't be opened till a Stuart sat on the Scottish throne”.  It is now a showplace.  Beautiful gardens, poplars, candle makers displayed their arts and wares.

The border river towns of River Tweed, Yarrow, Jed and Teviot are all pretty villages - all are textile industrial small towns set in valleys and hills.

At last we came to Peebles and then Melrose and as John was not well we pulled up for the evening and went for a stroll round town.  A Cistercian Abbey is the focal point of Melrose. 

Melrose Abbey

I should have said Robert the Bruce's heart is said to be buried here.  Another national trust well kept.  This town is Sir Walter Scott's home town.  Weather still holds - windy but fine.

Dunfirmline to Melrose

Loch Lomond to Inverness

Friday the 28th August, 1981                       Fine hot & sunny

Breakfast, showered and walked through town again to browse through antique shops.  Had coffee and began our trek to Loch Lomond.  I love the lyrical voices of the Scot - can't understand him but we managed to communicate.  The land and houses are different.  Land is more barren and far more forestry, houses are symmetrical and uninteresting.  Radio Scotland brings a giggle from us with it's staid programs, but Scotland promises to be interesting as we head north. 

Along the highway (A86) with heavy trucks and fast cars passing us rapidly, we trundled into Glasgow - an industrial, drab city, old buildings without character, acres and acres of housing.  Homes are great grey stone buildings.  We found American Express, collected a much looked forward to letter from Karen - our first contact with home - and continued on our way to Loch Lomond.  We had lunch on the A86 with heather all around us.

At Dumbarton we pulled into a garage to have the battery checked, the little redheaded mechanic was most obliging but we couldn't understand a word he said, we all looked at each other and somewhere in Sandra's brain a word clicked and we all vacated van which was what he wanted us to do.

With acid added to the cells we were on the road again to Loch Lomond.  Five minutes later we saw the Loch. 

Words can hardly describe this place.  A light mist lay over the whole of the lake given a blue hue.  The water is so still it is the reflection from the hills pictured in the still waters.

So here we are in Loch Lomond-caravan park ₤3 with the beautiful scenery around and horrible little midges eating us alive.  We had one awful 10 minutes at dusk when we couldn't find the repellent.  The weather continues to be beautiful and fine.

Sunday, 29th of August, 1981                  fine & misty

On the road early this a.m.  The Loch is still covered in the blue mist; it’s peculiar because the mist is only on the water and above it.  Ben Lomond's outline could be seen in the mist it is very mystical and awesome feeling being here early morn, no wonder the Scots can define their feelings in the bagpipe.

Loch Lomond is 23 miles long and 1.5 miles wide with 30 isles dotting the loch.  On the high lands we noticed pipers selling their wares and playing the bagpipes high above the high lands with only the passing cars to keep them company.

Cataracts poured their crystal clear ice cold water down the hill sides as we passed by.  Over the high lands and through to Glencoe.  

Here we stopped for morning tea to visit the Glencoe Museum.  Here in 1750 the posse of Campbell’s massacred the MacDonald clan after being given rest and food for 12 days.  I love the names we are now coming upon.  “Allt –Nan- Ros” hotel - “Inchree-tick a nick” all Scottish flavours.

We paused at Ft William - they were having a tarbundy (a carnival) on Loch Linnie.  It is a small town with the largest mountain in Scotland shading it.  Ben Nevis is 1343 feet above sea level.  Ski lifts dotted the side of all mountains and we passed.  We saw so many hikers and cyclists.  The Scots people are very health-conscious - they have such lovely places to go.  Travelled along Loch Lochy - all the lochs were like glass - not a breath of air disturbed the surface. On to Ft Augusta - there is an ancient abbey here.  We walked over to see if the lochs were working but all the boats had passed down for the day.

About another hours motoring brought us to Loch Ness - here all eyes were out to find the illusive monster but no luck.  We saw Castle Urquhart and Loch Ness Museum plus the camp at Inverness but nothing else here.

Sunday, the 30th of August

Here we are for a day's break from travelling.  We are in Inverness camping area - the nicest we have been in.  Plenty of entertainment around for all.  All I wanted to do is sleep and read but have so much to do with writing, sending cards, cleaning van and washing.  Last night Sandra took Sean and Rae across the road to a pleasure fair; prices were cheaper; prizes mean but the kids had a great time - came home laden with posters and gonks.  Sandra came home tired.  John went to the Ice Rink hotel next door.  As we settled to sleep a riot developed in the streets nearby - police quickly broke it up.  Besides the fair is a go-kart-minigolf and ice skating rink.

The ice cream van called Mr Softice plays William Tell to attract attention.  You can find them and T-bar bands anywhere from the top of the highlands to the shores of the lochs, down small lanes, on highways, anywhere tourists may pass.

After cleanup we drove out to Culloden, where in 1746 Bonnie Prince Charles fought his last fight against the English Hanoverians under Lord Cumberland.  Hundreds fell and Charles was hunted till he flew Gaelic shores and went to France.  The Jacobites built a cairn in memory of the fallen ones.

We had lunch there after seeing a movie on Scots history.  Now I know why I had an adverse reaction to "have you any books on kings and queens of England?"

We returned to camp, children hired bikes for £1.5 for 5 hours.  We all went for a walk along the river Ness whilst children rode bikes without worrying pedestrians.  We crossed a suspension bridge to isles in the middle of the river which brought us out into town.  Strolled round town then came home to bacon and scrambled eggs tea.  We are having leakage with the gas so it was a nervous cook and assistant.  After tea we strolled across and had a game of minigolf.  A laugh a minute.  Set in a beautiful rose garden - the tees were made of fibro.  We noticed so much here and in England, are cheaply made but attract many visitors in summer.

Sean came home with a piece of white heather - very scarce, but he had picked it from a museum's garden.  Wonder we didn't end up in jail.

 Written on a memorial in Inverness

 Fear not that I have for nought

The torch ye through to us is caught by

10,000 hands

And freedoms light shall ever be high

We’ve learned the lesson that ye have taught

In Flanders field

Loch Lomond to Inverness

Richmond - touring with George - and onto Scotland

 Tuesday, the 25th August, 1981

We left the camp site by 9:30 a.m. into Richmond to find the darned optician.  Believe it or not he wasn't in again.  Had a stroll round looking at antique shops.  Sandra bought 2 Queen Victoria plates, then back to Brompton on Swale for lunch.  We are delighting in the cheese and pickles at the moment.  Can buy food from all the continent here - French yogurt, Spanish figs, cheeses from everywhere.  George picked us up in his 10-year old Bentley and we drove off into the country towards the sea.  Through flat countryside we went to Newham Grange farm, quite a unique farm as it has rare breeds of farm animals which are in danger of becoming extinct.

 

Touring in George's Bentley 1981

We spent a pleasant two hours strolling round with our pleasant host, then he drove us on to Captain Cook's birthplace at Marton, the museum is the starting point of the Captain Cook Heritage Trail.  It is set in beautiful surroundings - Park and Lake of Stewart Park, Middlesborough close to the site where James Cook was born.  It has won quite a few major awards, and it is well worth a visit.  Very well done and very informative.  As John was going out with George to Rotary we headed for home about 5:30 p.m.

George, Rachelle and Sandra at Captain Cook Museum 1981

Wednesday the 26th August 1981

Another fine and hot day.  We travelled to the Lakes district with George and his nephew Ian.  Left Brompton on Swale about 8:30 a.m.  Sean elected to ride in the Bentley.  Set off on a nice long trip to George's pad in Coniston Lakes about 10 a.m. We stopped at various little pubs on the way.  Apparently this is a ritual, each one had its own beautiful setting.  Had morning tea at Kirkby Stephen - a clean little village.  Then on to Windermere to meet the rest of the party.  As it is still holidays and splendid weather the village was crowded.  It is situated on the lake surrounded by hills.  Very commercialised - lots of hire boats etc.

We continued around the Valley - stone walls lined either side of the road. This time the structural fence and house change.  Grey slate very effective.

A short pause at the Priory Tavern for a drink or two, then on to Skelwith Bridge for a Ploughman’s lunch for seven.  I disgraced the party when the waitress sang out seven Ploughmen’s and I answered in my Aussie twang.

And then through Coniston, to Brown Howe House "Tanglewood" George's name for a quarter of this 17th century old home, a once beautiful home in a rainforest area set on Coniston Lake - breathtaking!  After a cuppa we walked down to the stone quay.  The boys brought the sailboat in and we had a terrific afternoon sailing.  Liz and Jackie arrived and we had high tea.

Donald Campbell made his last bid for a record here in the Lakes outside "Tanglewood".  There is a memorial of rest for him in Coniston.

We were to stay the night at "Tanglewood" compliments of George - but after the Shaw family left we all felt the ghosts had returned to look us over.  The darker it got the scarier the place felt - musty smells from a past pervaded every corner.  After we all showered a unanimous vote of silence to evacuate spurred us on to pack and leave (much to John's disgust) we tumbled out into the pitch black, moonless night fumbled for a weak Woollies torch turned the antiquated key in lock and stumbled off down the path to the van, overhanging branches set off screams when touched.  I had three leeches clinging to me as we stopped and slithered down the path.  Phew, at last safety of the van- then much to our chagrin the engine wouldn't fire - well evthe road and into Coniston where we free camped next to half a dozen truckies and Donald Campbell's monument.

Thursday, the 27th August, 1981

Bright and warm again, went back to "Tanglewood", cleared the ghosts and collected our things and headed for Scotland.  Very beautiful countryside as we weaved up and down dales through to Ambleside.  The scenic drive is breathtaking, Heather on top of all hills.  It grows in sweet profusion as we head for Scotland and near her border.

As lunchtime approached we turned off at Cumbria to see Long Meg and her daughters.  A Druid saga.  

Long Meg and her daughter, Cumbria 1981

One large monolith and about 68 -- 70 round rocks all in a circle.  The legend goes that no one ever gets the same number of rocks no matter how many times you walk around and count.  We proved this - all differed.

Off after lunch we were nearly in Scotland.  At 2:30 p.m. we crossed the border into Scotland.  Rae ran across the border to be first on Scottish soil.  

Gretna Green 1981

Took photos of Gretna Green then continued on to Moffat a lovely little town with a huge church in the centre of the city.  It is the centre of the weaving industry.  We saw tartan skirts being made, and then went through the weaving Mills.  A big industry selling everything from suits to "tam o shanties".  Found a nice clean caravan park - more expensive than anywhere but worth it £1.60.  Showered and went for a drink to the Black Bull Inn in town.

Richmond, Yorkshire to Gretna Green, Scotland