Rome

Monday 1st February, 1982                   fine and foggy

Left camping "Villa Camerata", about 9 a.m. and headed for Rome.  Had one stop for lunch at a service area and another for petrol.  Came all the way on the Autopista cost 11,000 lire.  Our navigator got us here quite safely again.

Well here we are in Rome - "camping Flaminio."  And surprise of surprise - Charlotte and Titus are here.  All the way along we have been enquiring re their whereabouts.  And here they are in Rome.  Have been here 10 days and ready to move on.

Joan and Ron have been here too, have left their van and Land Rover here and flown to Greece.  We found out about Ron and Joan at the gate and as John drove in to find a park.  We saw Titus's van and all jumped out on the run, leaving only John in the van.  They had spent Christmas at Elche, so we weren't too far away.  They came in for a drink after tea and we caught up on all of their travels, talked non-stop for three hours.  Early bed as they are in their 60s.

Tuesday 2nd February, 1982               frosty but sunny.

Awoke to an icebox - 5° at 8 a.m.  The whole van was iced up.  The washing stood stiffly on the line - the kids had great fun hitting them with their gloves.  We were going to Tivoli with Titus and Charlotte after lunch, so John, Sean and I went into Rome to pick up the mail.  Caught the bus to town.  John left us to go to the railway station to pick up bus tickets - one month for 7500 lire, and it is 200 lire for any bus ride.  Sean and I walked up to the Piazza de Espagna to American Express, then down to the poste restante to pick up mail.  Tony's family poster - beautiful - I was disappointed - no mail.  But we met John back at the Spanish steps and back to catch the bus.  I liked the monumental steps leading up to the church of St Trinita dei Monti with its two Cupolas  -1495.  In centre is an obelisk found in the Gardens of Sallust.  The fountain on the piazza is the Barcaccia by Bernini.  We had to leave to go home for lunch, then off on a funny afternoon, with Titus and Charlotte.  After many stops to ask the way, we arrived at the Villa d'Este where the Tivoli is.

It is a fantastic place owned by Lucretia Borgia’s son.  It is an old castle with paintings, antique furniture.  The grounds have 20 terraces with about 500 fountains, waterfalls, sprays, springs all magnificently set in the gardens.  Espaliers and hedges total 4000 m. one fountain was a bust of a woman with two sprouts out of her bosom - every fountain has a name and represents some Roman history.  We spent quite a bit of time there - the kids went mad running freely.  On the way home we called in at “Hadrian’s Villa" just nearby, where Hadrian retired after his travels - for peace and quiet.

These are only ruins now, but a great expanse of them.  We wandered all over and the only sign of life was a beautiful swan on the Lake.  Sean and Rae went back to the van.  As the cold set in, and the rest of us wandered too far and as darkness fell, we began to think we were lost - however we did find the van just as darkness fell.  

Hadrian's Villa, 

Then began the funniest trip back, we missed the turn off to the Flaminio.  Well with instructions, Titus did make it to the ring road, but we were going the wrong way so first opportunity Titus turned off, and came up on the right side.  But we got caught up in a traffic snarl.  Well the comments from our comic driver kept us laughing - about two hours later we arrived home.  Ask them in for tea so with a quick flick here and there we served up a very nice tea of spaghetti, salad and cabbage.  His reason for the traffic hold-up was, he even went a little out of traffic line - came back and said to “him 4 camels”.  To bed and sleep.

Thursday 3rd February, 1982                 cold and frosty.

Up early and off to explore Roma.  Into the Piazza di Espagna again - collected letters from Billy and Karen.  Eight pages.  Then off to Victor Emanuel 2^nd monument built in 1885-1911.  Under the statue of Roma is the tomb of the Unknown Soldier.  I liked the architecture of the monument.  We walked around behind “Piazza Venezia." the centre of Rome.  We sat on the stairs of the Capitol and had our lunch watching Rome go by.  Up the steps we found the she wolf said to succour and rear Romulus and Remus.  We could view the Forum from here, but decided to visit the fountain of Trevi - disappointed.  No water spray, so we walked over to the Coliseum - can't believe I am actually seeing all these wonders I have only read about or seen in films or TV.

This mighty amphitheatre where gladiators entertained their Emperors was begun in AD 72 and finished by Titus in AD?  It is in fair condition considering its age.

We then hopped on a bus out along the Appian Way on our way to The Catacombs of St Sebastian.  Along the Via Apia, it is said St Peter on his way from Rome met Jesus and said "domine quo vadis" and he answered.  "I am going to Rome to be crucified again" and to this day Christ footprints remain on the pavement.  When we arrived at the catacombs, Sandra and I reneged and stayed on top, where we met an Aussie from the Top Deck Traveel bus.

Home then to shop at Standa and early to bed.

Sad goodbye to Titus and Charlotte on their way to Pompeii.

Thursday 4th February, 1982                   cold but not as cold

Up again fairly early, we were as snug as bugs having prepared ourselves for a cold, cold night, jumpers, pants, socks and even berets were on in bed.  Slept like logs.  On the bus again to town and off to visit St Peter's. 

St Peter's Cathedral, Rome

We went first to the Vatican Museum, where we spent many hours.  We travelled along a long corridor where on each side there are magnificent tapestries of various stages of religion.  One - the slaying of Caesar is terrific - then into the Sistine Chapel, where we bought a thousand lire radio to hear a description of the paintings.  Wow what beautiful art. 

 

Sistine Chapel, Rome

The walls have paintings by Botticelli, Rosselli and other Italian artists telling the story of Christ and Moses.  A painting of each of the Popes is just below the roof.  Then in 1508 Julius the Pope ordered young Michelangelo to paint the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel - finished in 1512 - he had very little experience in frescoes and he proved he was an artist with the final "last judgement" behind the altar.  It was quite an awesome experience to actually be viewing.  

We spent quite some time there, then walked through the rest of the Museum.  Then around to St Peter's Square where there is a Centre stone, and from this stone the colonnades can be seen differently to anywhere else, this was devised by Bernini.  The dome of St Peter's was by Michelangelo.  Inside, the tomb of St Peter, can be found beneath the high alter - 95 lamps burn day and night.  There is a beautiful alter with Michelangelo's " Pietà" a virgin holding Jesus, it was carved when Michelangelo was in his teens.  So much to describe, I bought a book for reference.

 

Pieta, Rome

Back to finding "Frederica's" for lunch.  It was as nice but hasty, cost three dollars each. We walked then to Piazza Navona - here there are 3 magnificent fountains. The middle one is an Aesop’s fable “The Fountains of Rivers”- centre is an obelisk that used to stand in the Circus Maximus. There is a lovely church of St Agnes -  pettiness existed even in great artists - Bernini turned all his faces from the church in disdain & Rainaldi put a statue of St Agnes overlooking the fountain and turned her face away in answer to the fountain. We caught a bus down to Flaminia, Piazza and Rome.

Not so cold now, thank goodness, as Sandra is suffering badly from chilblains - at last has brought a pair of fur lined shoes - after three tries.

Before Piazza Navona we visited the Pantheon - just had time to see this magnificent building before the closing of the door.  

Pantheon, Rome

Outside is the Piazza Minerva where Bernini set an obelisk on the back of an elephant.  The Pantheon was built in 27 BC as the temple of Agrippa.  The dome has an opening to the sky.  Victor Emanuel 2^nd is buried here.

Friday 5th February, 1982                          cold and fine

A rest day today, so we stayed in bed for awhile, John up and off to town early.  Rae and I decided to go into town and get the mail and ring home.

Sunny day, Sandra and Sean having a cleanup of van.  We had a nice day, caught slow bus to Centro, walked up, received mail from Billy and two from Nanna Marsden then off around to ring up.  Cost 26,740 lire about $19 but we had seven minutes and 38 seconds.  Great to hear Kevin and Karen's voices and all are well.  Christmas parcel has arrived, so am happy.  We had a cappuccino, not so good either.  Found a toilet, then strolled streets working way down to bus stop.  A long wait for bus, hopped off 1 km from camp and brought some carnations for van.  300 lire each, walked home.  Had lunch and writing, answering mail.

John spent his free day wandering town.  Came home exhausted and was met by a keen son - promised a drink at the bar - off they went for one drink and came home at 1 a.m.  Time flew talking to Roberto, an attorney and married to an Australian, Steve and Tim, the refugees from England.

Saturday 6th February, 1982                        cold and overcast

Awoke about 8 a.m. ready, willing and able to explore Rome a little more.  We covered a few kilometres today - approximately 9 on foot, fast bus and tram mileage.  Into American Express at Piazza di Espagna for mail and money and a cappuccino and then off up to the Via Veneto to view shops on the way to Immaculate Conception Church - not open - so went looking for food to put on bread and butter, a long walk up to Standa then on the tram and out to see the pyramid.  Had lunch sitting on half a bench - cheese, mustard and olives.  Had a coffee - then Sean led us up to the Priory of the Knights of Malta where you can look through a keyhole and view three nations, Malta, Italy and the Vatican - a long avenue of trees through to St Peter's dome.

We walked down to Circus Maximus, where we quickly traversed the course as it is a well-known homosexual pickup - being Saturday, the male force were out in full.  

Spanish Steps, Rome

Down past the Colosseum - up those steps to the Via Nationale - window shopped whilst on way back to the church to view the cemetery of the Capuchins and you would have to see it to believe it.  

Cemetery of Capuchins, Rome

The cemetery contains 4000 religious who died in Jerusalem from 1528-1870.  All the parts of the skeletons have been patterned in six compartments - incredible, there were skulls, femurs - you name a bone of the body and it was there by the hundreds, forming patterns.  Entrance was by donation and Sean said he felt like giving them a chuck.  Glad to be out and on our way across town to the Via Uffizi to Gialletes for a famous ice cream - and well worth the trip.  Then back down to the Via del Corso and then walked along the sidewalk to the Piazza Del Popolo for the bus ride home.  Tired exhausted we made it home ate and bed.

Sunday 7th February, 1982                  fine but cold

Slept in a little as we were so tired after a long ambulatory day.  Up and off to St Peter's - Sean would have had us there at 8 a.m. but we had plenty of time.  Arrived about 11:15 a.m. and the Square was slowly filling up - there were people everywhere.  We took up a position early where we could obtain a good view only to find about five minutes to go, we were looking the wrong way and at the wrong window.  Rachelle raced up to a Red Cross man and found out where, so we strolled towards the obelisk and had a good view - a little Italian woman spoke to me.  Found out she was 80 - there were people from all nations besides the locals all excited about seeing the Pope.

We had our rosary beads and medals ready for his blessing.  At midday - about 11:55 a.m.-red carpet was dropped from the open windows then at midday he came in to view, a small figure way up 4 stories away but his message was transmitted to the thousands in the square.

We gather he was sending a message of peace.  He then blessed us all with a holy Mary, an Our Father and Glory be in Latin, so we had beads etc ready to send the kids.  What an experience, to really be here to see and hear him Papa Giovanni Paola the second.  These men were selling Vatican coins and it was funny - one minute it was “Poppa’s coins" then as we approached it was "the Pope's coins"

We left the Square and caught a bus to an unknown place but it gave us a lovely view of Rome from one of the seven Hills - Sean, our guide wasn't feeling well, so John put us on another bus and we found our destination, "La Canonica " at the via della Palgia - a fantastic Italian restaurant.  The kids had Spaghetti alla Carbonara (egg and bacon) John, Fettuccine alle Vognole Veraci (with clams) and we all had Saltimbocca Romana with salad.  Beautiful with Bianco vino and John a red.  They brought us complementary liqueur Amoretto an almond one and Sambucca licorice - beautiful - slated we left - caught bus back to the Via Flaminia to catch the bus home. Sandra and John stayed in town to walk off large lunch.  Sean went straight to bed, Rae and I showered.  I had a conversation with the little boys here - Frank who can speak five languages, others only Italian though one little fellow Mark?  Had tea-time T-shirt.

Monday 8th February, 1982                fine and overcast

Up reasonably early awakened by three mice creeping out for a coffee in the bar.  Into town to visit the Forum.  We walked along the Via Sacre where every Roman walked.  

Forum, Rome

Forum, Rome

We stood beneath the arch of Titus, that recalls the conquest of Jerusalem - passed the ruins of Basilica of Maxentius - admired the temple of Antonius and Faustina.  We lunched in the house of the Vestal Virgins.  The virgins were holy women especially chosen but if they broke their vow of chastity they were buried alive with a piece of bread and a candle.

If you listened you could almost hear Anthony's "friends Romans countryman lend me your ears.  I came to bury Caesar." where Caesar died.  Turned our backs to the Forum and headed for American Express and Poste Restante and home.  Received a letter from Libby.  Sean one from Brett.  Sandra and John stayed in town so the kids and I had food of our choice.  Ron and Joan Russell back from Greece, dying to tell us their adventures.

A funny incident on way home - an accident at cross intersection - well just about everyone got off the bus walked down to have a look and then hopped on the bus when it came to intersection and barged its way across.  A police car was involved with the bus - there were policemen everywhere trying to clear the banked up traffic and move the spectators on.

Sandra and John arrived home with a nice frock, slacks, bag and jumper about 10 p.m. so they were tired.

Tuesday 9th February, 1982                  fine and sunny

Off to shop today, not sightseeing.  Rae, Sandra and I went one way - boys the other.  They are going to investigate ways and means of going to Greece - no boats from Ancona in the winter so there is only flying or Brindisi and that's out.  We walked along Via del Corso looking and trying - I found the suit I wanted, bought it and found another one for 29,000 lire which came to 95,900 lire or $67.  They will do me for another 20 years.  Couldn't find any boots.  Sandra brought a nice skirt and Rae 2 skirts, 2 harem pants and a jumper, and roller skates.

We ate a lunch at our usual cafe in Piazza de Espagna - treated ourselves to a sit down as there are just no places to sit in Rome - not even in bars.  We had our supposedly chicken salad - turned out to be chicken mixed in mayonnaise - too much for Sandra and I to take so asked for a plate of green salad - red and green cabbage so it wasn't too bad.

It was funny trying on clothes - we think the sales girls are on commission they really hustle you.  Had huge size pair of pants on Rae trying to pull them in saying "in Italy the girls are fatter".

We did our grocery shopping on the way home, over to Joan and Ron's caravan to hear about their trip to Greece.

Wednesday 10th February, 1982              cool but sunny

Lazy morning - boys were to help Ron change his caravan tyres so we dragged ourselves out of bed and breakfast.  Rest day, so we washed and cleaned the van - visit from Ron after -boys left for town to enquire re Greece.  After lunch Rae and I went into town -Trevi Fountain was working so we threw a coin in.  

Trevi Fountain, Rome

Did a bit of shopping and home.  John received a telegram from Robert Fellowes re truck - so we may go home earlier than usual.  At the least back to England earlier.

As at this moment, we are off to Pompeii for four days then back to catch a plane on Tuesday or Wednesday to Greece.  No mail today.

Thursday 11th February, 1982                 fine and sunny

Slept in till 9:30 a.m.  Rome is very tiring, with no place to sit down not even in bars.  Decided to go for a bus ride.  Met Sean and had lunch in town.  Sandra and Rae are suffering from sore throat and colds so we all left them to their own devices.  Some funny things seen today.  

Firstly the Post Office truck with the police car in front and one behind and an overweight fellow with a machine gun guiding it into park.  There was a traffic hold-up so everyone seemed tense, horns were blowing.  We had lunch in our favourite restaurant, this time at the self-service.  11,000 lire and very nice - Sean had beef casserole and spaghetti, I had cold pork and salad - down stairs to coffee, then off to Australia House to read the news.  It was like trying to get into the Bank of England.  Finally bullet proof doors had to be unlocked from inside, then through another bullet-proof locked door - was good to read papers even if they were a week old.  Caught the tram down to the bus stop at Via Flaminia then out to the dry cleaners - to pick up Sandra's coat.  Sandra had sent Sean in with it earlier on his own - he had fun putting it in and we had fun trying to get it out no avail -10 a.m. in the morning - we are off to Pompeii?  Then home to a nice tea and bed.  The ailing are still feeling lousy.  Off to Pompeii with Ron and Joan Russell in convoy in a.m.