Saint Jean De Luz to Portugal

Saturday 7th November, 1981                       cold but sunny

Decided to stay here for the weekend, even though Spain is only 12 km away.  Did some hand washing this a.m.  The sun is shining so could dry - haven't found a laundromat for many miles.  We are in Basque country.  People are darker and speak French with a different accent.  Walked 2 km into town in the sunshine.  Left our gypsy van with the washing basking in the sun.  We are the only ones here - the Dutch van slipped out this morning towards Spain.  A lovely town with a fishing port in one section and the bay in another, narrow old streets run between the two.  Over the railway line a new area with apartments, houses and supermarkets.  Walked around then lunched in the bay.  Basque or Gulf of Gasgoyne.  Then walked home - washed hair, played cards and settled for night.

When Sandra and I were strolling down to meet the boys a horrible man threw a punch at my stomach.  Luckily I stepped back.  I think he was drunk.

St Jean de Luz is a fishing village dating back to the 10th century.  A great historical event took place in 1660 when Louis XIV married the Infanta of Spain Marie Therese.  The church door where they entered was bricked up and has never been opened since.  The church is the most beautiful I have seen, it is both Romanesque and Gothic.  There are no pillars and a three tiered gallery -  for men only - runs around the church - this is a Basque custom.  The monumental altar place is an 18th century work by Marten de Bidache.  We decided to go to the 11 a.m. Mass on Sunday when this lady told us the singing was in Basque.  And it was beautiful.  They had a mass books with one page in French and the other in Basque.

Sunday 8th November , 1981             misty and fine

St Jean de Luz is Basque country and the people are so friendly.  We went to lunch at this beautiful little restaurant in town.  Le Kaiku. It was so friendly.  We had a little time to order and halfway through, this gentleman on the next table spoke to us - he spoke some English and was helpful telling the kids which sweets were best.

Le Kaiku restaurant, Saint Jean de Luz, France

We had a leisurely three hour lunch - came out to sun shine then walked home and took the car for a drive to Biarritz - casino land.  We are off to Spain tomorrow.  Ravel the composer of my favourite Bolero was born at Cibourie 1 kilometre from St Jean de Luz.

Monday 9th November, 1981              foggy then fine

Breakfasted and on the road again  - the 12 km into Spain.  I was apprehensive about Spain expecting Zorro to meet us at the border, then the villains to be all around us, but the Spanish are human.  The same the world over.  The border officials waved us through and on towards San Sebastian where we drove around and around to find a park and American Express -which had closed.  So to a bank for money.

The locals park anywhere and anyhow but John keeps within our traffic rules.  Parked outside a market so whilst our weeks washing was cleaned - the market called Sandra, John and the kids - brought some rice, pork chops for $1.70 for 5 and some greens.  We think the rate is hundred and seven pesetas to our dollar

Had lunch in streets, but closed the blinds as everyone stopped and stared.  Then on to Igueldo camping area - it is quite a distance up the hill overlooking the Golfo de Vizcaya.  It was very misty but lovely view.  We showered, had to find the concierge to light the gas - we had a communication breakdown.  He came about six rubbing his hands together.  We thought he meant it was cold which it was and said "Si" so off he went and later we found he had turned the gas off.  So San and John missed out on a shower.  After tea we walked up to the bar for a drink.  There was a pinball machine so Sean had his first one dollar in many months.

Tuesday, 10th November, 1981                misty and frosty

Awoke to icycles on the ground, flushed cheeks and jumpy bodies - soon the blood raced & we were ready to be on the road again.  It’s like the 6 a.m. winter Wagga mornings.  You have to keep the body moving to keep warm.  Anyway soon we were on our way down the hill to San Sebastian before we froze.  A beautiful scene seawards and to the Vale but the mist covered most of it.  Travelled on a not too bad road to a Valley where we were held up by an accident.  The police were there with their guns over their shoulders - it was funny as each car or truck pulled up they strolled up to see the cause, then just sat and looked.  We were there for about three quarters of an hour and off we went for awhile with all the traffic passing us and each other.  We came to a place in this lovely valley just rising, when we looked out and saw all these trucks winding and groaning up a Road.  So we pulled in and had lunch, no bread but corn and eggs - good too.  Then up we went - a lovely clear road and the scenery was out of this world.  We climbed to 617 m and on to Pamplona were St Ignatius Loyola was born and began the Jesuit order.  We came along the Autopista for 19 km - cost us 70 pesetas.  We only stayed in the town for awhile walked along part of the way the bulls run, had a coffee, and decided to get on the road again as there was no camping area.  We could have stayed outside the town Hall but it was in a cold Square.  We had lots of laughs at the drivers.  Outside the tourism office we saw a car clip another, have a look and then drive off.  They park anywhere. We were hemmed in with a double parked car - so these two fellows just pushed the little car in front of us out of the way and we took off towards Zaragoza.

Through small villages the countryside changes - from green paddocks at the seaside and lush hill side in the valley, we now have burnt dry countryside very evident of the drought Spain is experiencing.  Past dry arid villages where there is not a blade of grass - villages built into sandstone hills very dry and unpleasant.  We knew we couldn't reach a camp tonight, so Sandra asked an ambulance station on the highway if we can stay, so here we are snug beside a lovely Park behind the Red Cross station.

Wednesday, 11th November, 1981           Armistice Day                       Frost and sunny

Have you ever awoken to find yourself in an icebox - well we did this morning.  The usual condensation was iced up all over the windows forming Christmas patterns.  Outside was white with frost - definitely made us frisky, we had a good nights sleep behind the Red Cross station, heard a siren but must have fallen asleep before action.

We were off after the Sun and warmed the engine.  We pushed the car into the sun and Sandra popping out of the van quickly, fell and skinned her chin, hand and knee.  This worker arrived on his motorbike - we never did find out if he was saying we shouldn't be there or the Red Cross would fix any abrasions.  We are now in Spain the land of olives.  We skirted Zaragoza and headed for Madrid about 350 km away decided whilst conditions were good, to try and make it, as there were no camps and we were screaming for running water. We came across a Hyper Mercado so stopped, filled the larder with Spanish foods - some things are very cheap but others as dear as home.  Most foods are cheap.  After this the landscape changed - barren and dry, no greenery.  Homes made from sandstone into sandstone hills real Zorro country.  I think the good Lord ran out of trees when he made this plateau.  From there into Madrid the land was the same - olive trees dead, so much rock in the soil - hard to imagine how they make a living.  Saw men on donkeys along the road side and some villages so high in the hills - donkeys were their only mode of transport.

At one area we saw this lavado - a public wash house.  The women beating their clothes and long pants hung out over rocks.  Here too the women help in the fields - dad on the cart full of ? and mum walking out front of horse's head.  Every now and again a huge pensioner Hostel would appear.  Gardens, petrol all a traveller would need then past them into the dry barren land.  As we chugged towards Madrid two things brightened our viewing.  A large Michelin Man waving stood on a hill every 50 km or so and a big black Bull advertising Osborne Sherry and whisky - so we became quite fond of Mitch and Ossie.  About 8:30 p.m. we pulled into the camping area in Madrid - good work John - tired, dirty and hungry.  First shower then tea then bed.  A few Australians and Americans here.  Sean found and brought a bottle of white wine call Romeral founded in 1881.

Thursday, 12th November, 1981               cold then fine  2°-15°

Awoke at 8:15 a.m. after a good sleep.  Decided I would stay at home whilst the others go into Madrid.  Need to refuel every now and then.  Washed, wrote up diary, found peanut butter, don't know if we can eat it yet - with the poison oil scare.

Some strange and interesting people we meet at camping areas but the van beside us here at Madrid is best.  A monkey act called "Superman attraction" and by the noises coming from van they are finding it hard to emulate Superman. The family arrived home with lots of letters from home, so I settled down to read.  Four from Karen, one each from Bev, Pam Mann, Gwen and Monty.  All good and funny news - washing dry and aired. 

We then went off to catch the metro at Canilljas for town.  Madrid has lovely wide streets - the buildings are lovely but the city is dirty and poor beggars on streets worry me.  There are hundreds of vendors selling anything from badges to Navidad lottery tickets.  And they are funny - someone whistles and they all take off except the ones with a licence we think and that isn't too many.  As soon as the Police move on back they come.  Little boys playing guitars and singing, the usual buskers and just beggars.  One good thing begging selling and smoking are forbidden in the underground so you can travel fairly freely.

We shopped at Plaza Mayor and walk to a restaurant for lunch.  It is cheaper to sit at a bar so we did and had a beautiful meal - chicken and salad.  John had Paella, Sean Spanish omelette and Rae good old Spanish sausages and eggs and chips.  We then went shopping again, San at last bought herself some perfume, for Karen's "opium" but just as dear here as home.

Off then to the Prado Museum - to view Goya, el Greco and Velasquez.  It is quite an experience to stand and view the priceless paintings.  John brought one of Velasquez and a “Murillo" print.  As we were shown the door at 4:45 we decided to head for home.  Tired and dirty as the temperature had risen slowly all day and we were hot and sticky.  Home to cook eggs for kids and salad for us.  Then bed.  John and Sean off to a bar with the boys next door.

Saturday 14th November, 1981                cold sunny fine

Awoke late, just after nine o'clock after a good sleep.  John and Sean going in for mail.  We are staying home to prepare for take off tomorrow.  Boys showing no signs of their late night with Peter, Jim and Morris, the Aussies next to us.  Washed, wrote letters, then this p.m. went for a drive to a jumbo market to refuel and restock.  Finished Sean's blanket so I am starting on one for John's back.  Lots of Aussies here but all are heading up north - holidays over -whilst we are going to choose to go Segovia, Salamanca and Portugal.

On the way into Madrid we bypassed Guadalajara where Sean says "Speedy González" lived and Alcala de Heneres where Sevante of Don Quixote fame was born.

Plaza Mayor - met Spanish-Australian family - son was in Australian Navy and had six weeks leave.  We had a drink with them in a bar.  Mum worked also to save to come home to visit -wasn't keen on Madrid they said.

Sunday 15th  November, 1981                       cold but fine

Slept in till 9:30 a.m.  Awoke to a crisp, brisk morning. The sun was shining.  Had breakfast and prepared to leave for Portugal.  On the way out John wanted Sean to film the Guardia Civil but Sean wouldn't - was frightened they might shoot and I didn't blame him.

Young fellows walking around with rifles on the ready - and a few kilometres on we ran into a demonstration - never seen so many people.  They must care enough to turn out in so many thousands.  When we came to a red light the riot squad were guarding the crowd and traffic and when they refused to clear the road - all cars started to blow their horns and John wanted San to film it - Sean being ejected from the front seat for refusing before - but Sandra wouldn’t either.  So we went on our way with a grumpy driver and two determined projector operators.  Detoured to Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caidos - a beautiful magnificent church built into a side of the mountain with a monstrous cross rising above the mountain.  Franco built it in memory of the fallen in the civil war.  You drive up a steep mountain - cost 300 pesetas to enter the grounds - then after parking, a walk past a restaurant up steps to the church.  It is the biggest in the world 2 feet longer than St Peter's in Rome.  The Spaniards just beat the Italians.  You enter a long hall built straight into the mountain, forming a huge hallway.  Beautifully carved statues, tapestries and the Stations of the Cross line the walls of perfectly formed arches.  We had lunch in the car park after hearing Mass at the altar which stands at the end of the huge hall.  Over the altar rises a huge dome and behind a wooden cross with the crucifixion, quite an experience to hear Mass there.  El Escorial is nearby.

Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caidos

Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caidos

Just as we finished lunch Australians, drove past blowing the horn.  A married couple and their young daughter who were here for two years.

On then to Segovia where the most outstanding feature first spied is the aqueduct built by the Romans. 

Segovia Aquaduct

As we pulled up in the park we were welcomed by a Jim bloke - every town has one.  We left the van in good hands and went for a walk behind the ancient walls, a lovely old church begun in 1525.  It was unusual in that all its altars were behind bars.

Entrance door to church

Outside we were inundated by beggars - it disturbs me - little tiny hands clutching at you for money.  It spoiled my walk.  Women with lace were everywhere but when you said no they left you alone.  We strolled back to the van and decided to head for Avila.

From the highway onto the Autopista one is not encouraged to speed, as before the toll gates for about 100 yards, is a cobbled brick road that shakes the daylight out of front and back seaters. We made a tape to send home for Christmas on the way along the Autopista - or should I say began.  Arrived in Avila about 6:30 p.m.  Sean has a migraine so has slept most of the way.  

Avila, Spain

We free camped in a hotel Park.  We went for a coffee in the restaurant, then blanket bathed. Then ate.  Avila is the highest town in Spain -1127 m above sea level - it is in the province of Castille.  St Theresa of the Carmelite order and St. John of the cross were born and lived here.  It is a very devout area so best to bed so we can stroll tomorrow.  It is a walled city and from here we can see the wall illuminated.  

Monday, 16th November, 1981                               brisk and cold but sunny

Seeing we were camped at " Los Quattro Postes " in Avilla, the highest town in Spain, we weren't as cold as in Zaragoza where we iced up.  Awoke to a brisk cold sunny day after a restless night.  We breakfasted on cereal and yogurt: the last of the toast and butter the night before.  The illuminations were turned off some time after midnight but are just as lovely in the mist with the sun glistening on the wall.

During the night a game of housie began and till all hours of the morning we heard uno quartro etc being called out.  The Spanish begin their evening when we are finishing ours.

Went into Avilla to the tourist office then took off on a walking tour of the town, a lovely place with a wall around the city and old and new buildings blending together.  Went up on wall took some photos could see our overnight camp quite well.

Shopped the market - Rae and I can't stand to smell of all the fish and meat exposed.  We brought bread, visited the cathedral - the Spanish for reasons no doubt obvious, have three altars behind bars, funny way to hear Mass.

Lunched outside town then on the road - bumpy road at that - to Salamanca.  At least 70 km of Highway 93 was bumpy.  Went through San Pedro do Arroya where we saw a telephone man walking along with his headphones connected to the overhead wires.  Further on, out of nowhere, washing hanging on a wire fence and every now and then shepherds attending their sheep. Near Charrererro we passed a car with Mickey Mouse ears and the tail!  Black bulls pranced in paddocks at Panaranda - countryside not unlike Wagga and the weather beautiful.  Arrived at the cobblestone streets of Salamanca.  We drove around but too uncomfortable to enjoy.  A lovely cathedral on the hill.  After a hassle we found the camp, showered and ate.  Beautiful!

Tuesday 17th November,1981           Salamanca camping Reijo           fine and sunny

This camp has been an experience - we showered in a four-star hotel and are sleeping in the caravan park next door.  Of course we haggle over prices and  Sean reckons the number of stars comes from the amount you see after the bill.  It is dear for the services.  We were escorted upstairs by the concierge in a little lift - shown into a private bathroom - it was nice to have room to oneself. So whilst Rae washed, I rinsed our undies in the hand basin.  One by one we all showered.  John took the kids over to watch TV whilst he showered.  A break for them they haven't seen TV since we left the hotel in London.

Decided we had seen enough of Salamanca and the next day headed for the border and Portugal.  Arrived at Cuidad Roderigo about 10:30 a.m. posted our last Spanish mail to Karen and Sandra and Bob Fellowes.  Sean bought some pan (bread) for lunch and off to the border.

Arrived at 12 midday Spanish time and 11 a.m. Portugal time.  The Portuguese officials were in 2 old caravans.  We had to hand in our passports at both the Spanish and Portuguese sides.

Saint Jean de Luz to Ciudad Rodrigo, Spain