Time to hit the road

Monday 22nd of March                      cold and overcast

Awoke to a dull cold day - all up to hot shower - breakfast and prepare for being on the road again.  We left about 10 a.m. - Lee is nervous - so is John I think.  We went through Calais to the super Continental - to fill the larder.  Marie and Lee were astounded at the size - we are still off on the highway to Ypres.  Had lunch on the highway.

Stopped at the border then on to Ypres where the remains of the battle in 1918 war - huge cemeteries line the side of the road - Hooge Crater cemetery seemed to be the biggest.

War cemetery at Ypres

On through Doornick, Tournai, Bernissait to then into Mons where we immediately got lost -ended up at a dead end.  Poor Lee nearly died - a good initiation into European driving.

Had a cuppa when settled then realised it was 6:45 p.m. so on went tea - then bed.

We drove through Flanders Fields-just imagine Pop riding his bike to pick the potatoes from the field - have a strong feeling Dad is on this trip with me. 

Tuesday 23rd March, 1982                       overcast and cold

On to Luxembourg - different people in charge very obliging and helpful.  Didn't eat till 9 p.m. then kids went to bed and we walked to the bar - had a pleasant two hours in warmth, Sandra and John caught up on life back home - bed but not to sleep - restless night not enough exercise.  Went through Bove Anderloaes, morning tea at Fleurus - kids roam wild then on through Wierde to Courriene where we lunched beside one of the many Fritures - hot, freshly cut chips for lunch - spoiled only by tomato sauce.  On then to Aalen and into Luxembourg -stopped at the supermarket "cactus" where we all went mad with excitement buying - Marie, Lee and Brett can't get over the size of the markets and this one was cheap - 44 Belgian francs for Kellogg's, wines and brandy ridiculously cheap - on then to find a laundromat - where the dog sat under the umbrella.

Just made it at 6:45 p.m. - finished and out to caravan Park - shower and sleep.

Wednesday 24th of March                  sunny and beautiful

Up, washed, showered on this beautiful spring day - off to town - walked 1 km to bus stop "Arret" 20 Belgian francs.  Walked the streets till we were thirsty - had a cuppa - all 10 of us in a cake and coffee shop. Sean and Brett ran off to change money - John and I to the post office then we all walked around the Ponte Adolphe et Plase de Bruxelles, down the casements.  

Wandering Luxemborg

Was a beautiful day - lots of film is taken.  Lee and Marie loved it - the twins were very good. We saw the guard at the Palace, down ancient streets - found a nice Glama bar where we took over three tables, for ham roll and wine - then on to another walk through the pedestrian walk.  Love their no car pedestrian malls - bus and home to chicken and salad.  Sandra, John, Lee and Marie went to bar.  I was exhausted so to bed.  Ice on windows in a.m.  Sean's jumper as stiff as board from frost.  Blackout in p.m. so the later showerers missed out - little tot from camp (beautiful brown eyes) attached herself to the little ones - children need no language.

Thursday 25th of March                     frosty and sunny

Up early - no showers and an early breakfast.  Whilst we packed up the hot water came on, so we showered, packed up and delivered little nomad - who came around - to her parents and off.  

Through ancient old Echtenach Senningen where we drove over line of workmen much to their anger.  Lee had to wait - before the border we drove along the Mosel with Germany one side and Luxembourg the other.  Rae had to ask at the border for stamps on our passports -our first Deutscher - stopped at Trier for morning tea quick walk around town then we were moved on - parking in disabled area in front of Rathaus.

Stopped at Riverside for lunch, kids ran wild along the river.  Troy lost his ball in the river so Lee and John took off along the other side to retrieve it.

On then to Bernkastel-Krus, a lovely river village where we stayed for a while on the Krow - no caravan Park so back to Bernkastel - no deal, so here we are at Wehlen at a caravan park no hot water but comfortable.  Troy lost his ball up a tree this time.  Went for a walk up town - the streets are so narrow we walk along like a crocodile in single file - the whole 10 - I think the locals would like to photograph us.

Going for a walk along the river I met a group of three Germans - Karl Box, his sister and her husband.  The husband was recuperating at the clinic here.  Amazed that Australians can come away for nine months.  Sandra, John, Lee and Marie walking up to hotel for a night out.

The people working in Vineyards up mountainsides look like ants.  The Mosel is beautiful not as busy as the Rhine - the villages are just as lovely - quaint buildings and churches with the spires rising high into the air.

A really beautiful spring day.

Friday 26th of March              frosty and sunny

Couldn't find the owner of camp to pay, so left 10 deutsche marks in letterbox and off to Bingen, a very good road over the mountains.  After coming through Kov and Zell - bye Mosel hello Rhine - had morning tea on side of road on a lay-by.  A beautiful sunny day - spring is really here at last.  Pansies bloom everywhere - the fruit buds are waiting to burst open and winter brownness is being replaced by new growth.  Down into Bingen to the old parkplatz and the girls took the washing to the laundromat - we had lunch in the parkplatz then shopped whilst washing dried - bought a skivie for 7 1/2 deutsche marks about three dollars then highlight of the day - boat ride across Rhein to Rudesheim.  What a magnificent sunny day -arrived Rudesheim about 4:15 p.m. and walked up to see if the cable car was running to Neiderwald monument, but you wouldn't believe it - it opens tomorrow - one day too early.  

Window shopping in Rudesheim

We walked to the Drosselgrasse - went to our old restaurant to have coffee - Best cappuccino in Germany.  The couple who entertained us before weren’t there, but gentleman playing the organ played Waltzing Matilda for us.  We thoroughly enjoyed our afternoon.  We caught the boat back then continued to Bacharach where we had to ring the manager for showers - very obliging.

A hot shower and sleep by the Rhine.  Showered by candlelight - no lights.  Oh the fun we have!

 

Calais, France to Rudesheim, Germany

Belgium to Paris, France

Saturday, 17th October, 1981                  rain

Raining this morning, so decided to leave for Belgium.  We had the washing to do so stopped at the Luxembourg laundromat in case we can't find one.  A good job done by Sandra.  The kids and I went for a walk in the rain then prepared lunch.  Good bye Luxembourg, hello Belgium.  On the way out we stopped at a hypermarket which was so cheap we bought gloves, warm socks and shoes for the boys - nil Sandra.  Rae spent her francs on some play mobile which was very cheap.  I notice Fisher-Price toys half price to Australian. John and I brought a bottle of brandy - mine was two dollars 50 - Napoleon.

On then towards Belgium where we passed through the border without a blink from the officers and then on to Virton.  We'll stay here for the weekend then into Champagne country.

Sunday, 18th October  1981                    Wet

Awoke to rain again, so decided to travel on to France as we can’t air the van.  As the showers weren't controlled by coins, we all lined up for a shower - who knows when next we'll shower.  Had fun and games trying to pay the camp - wouldn't take it off Sean, then San tried and then John.  Eventually we found we had to go about 1 mile away to another activity Centre where there was a family sports event on.  We saw one crowd go off trotting, rain and all - Belgium is very family minded.  Lots of outdoor sports they do together.  Well goodbye Virton in Belgian and hello France.  Passed onto French soil at Ecouviez where the official took our passports and stamped them - the second time only since entering Europe.

The border villages are so different to any other nation - they looked neglected.  No local pride, even the statues of Our Lady or the crucifix were surrounded with weeds.  On through Chauceney la Chateau where the low lands were flooded.  La Combus Stenay - large brick foundations on verandas.  Landeville, Beauclair and Vouzier where we saw our first War Cemetery.

On through Blaise where we saw piles of parsnips or turnips piled high on side of road.  About Berru we came upon the grapevines, and were in Champagne country.  Stopped in Rheims to see the cathedral - a beautiful construction built 400 AD, razed and rebuilt in 900 AD.  We walked around, hadn't any French money to buy anything as we still had deutsche marks.  A woman kept rattling a money plate at us but we had to act blind.  We then went on a tour of Verve Clicquot Champagne Caves.  Oh boy - down to the bowels of the earth through tunnels supposedly made by the Romans.  The end of the tunnel had fungus all over the walls and roof from the humidity.  The temperature stayed at 10°-11° all year round.

We saw how they bottle them and how after some time they tipped them up to remove the sediment.  Quite interesting!  They have been in operation since 1770.  A lot of Champagne houses here.  We began the Champagne Road and are now free camping at Rilly.

Monday, 19th October , 1981           fine

Awoke to a fine day and little activity at the station - guards coming to work.  The only toilet we had available was the male one at the station - a real French toilet - squat a vous - my first experience and maybe not my last.  France has not been very nice - its villages are frumpy, uncared for buildings, shocking roads, even the countryside looked neglected.  Grottoes stood like a ship in an ocean of weeds and every now and again a neat War Cemetery to remind us of grim days gone by.  It did not improve until we were within 50 km of Paris where new towns and well-kept farmland appeared.

We proceed over bumpy roads through Bellevue, Champillon, and Dizy to Epernay - a large town where we went shopping for Aerograms etc whilst the boys went on an inspection of Moet and Chandon.  Oh boy it can be hard going.  Decided then as we were only 60 odd kilometres from Paris to head for there.  On through grotty little villages with lovely names de'Ablois, Bussieres, Morass - a change with nice neat homes and on to Meaux, where John rang caravan park to book in.

Then the battle through the streets of Paris and on to the periphery road - a fast moving highway with hundreds of hungry Parisian’s wanting to get home.  Our navigators got us here quite safely, so showered and warm.  We are quite content.  Off to pick up mail in a.m. Had my first sight of Eiffel Tower and Sacre Coeur.

Tuesday, 20th October, 1981                       raining and cold

Our campsite is in the Bois de Boulogne.  Up and off on the courtesy minibus to town to collect mail.  A 15 minute ride into town through the park to the edge of Paris. We got off at Port Mallete and walked down the avenue des Champ Élysée - actually here at last in this lovely wide avenue.  We walked in the rain to the Opera - a beautiful old building.  Collected our mail at American Express, lots for everyone with all good news this time.  Then went looking for a coffee shop - all to no avail - every Parisian was in town eating so we found the metro by popular consent and headed for home.  A small wait for bus, a cup of coffee and read all of our mail.  We listened to Amber and Tony's tape - cried and laughed.

Rang Bev Klasups, a niece of Mabel’s from work.  We had a great talk as she is so homesick.  Still raining so into bed.  John came home with the four-day billets.

Wednesday, 21st October, 1981               sunny and cold

Woke to a fine cold day, so we packed our lunch and started on our four-day sightseeing with the billets - for 53 francs we can use bus and metro and Montmartre funicular.  Quite cheap as the first day cost us 13 1/2 francs in and out to town.  Our first day we decided to see Eiffel Tower and Sacre Coeur.  We took a photo of the tower with the Australian flag as Australia House is just near the Tower.  John took the kids up in the chairlift.  It is quite magnificent - built by Gustave Eiffel in 1880 to commemorate the centenary of the French Revolution.  It is quite high 313 m and has been used for radio in both world wars.  We had a lunch beneath its huge wings and then went off on metro to see Sacre Coeur at Montmartre, a really beautiful cathedral sitting high above Paris.  Some say the Church exterior never soils - it gets whiter every year.  It was built on the scene where France's first martyrs met their deaths.  It is built in Roman-Byzantine style and can be reached by road, steps or funicular.  We rode up and walked down.  Lit a candle for family.  Rae, Sean and John went up the dome and down to the crypt.  We then went out among the sinners at Montmartre, an area near the church where artists have for years made their living.  

Montmartre, Paris

Admiring artists sketches at Montmartre

About 70-hundred artists were in the square under umbrellas fighting for customers.  Sandra and Rae had their sketches done.  The rain held off for that.  As the cold set in we headed for home via American Express, tube and bus - tired cold but satisfied.

Thursday, 22nd October, 1981                     fine

Another fine day so we are going to explore more of lovely Paree.  Made lunches and armed with our thermos today (as yesterday we were unable to get into a coffee shop) the one we did have at Sacre Coeur cost 23 francs for three.  Caught bus after a brisk, cold walk uphill and into Port Maillot. Then down the metro to Franklin D. Roosevelt.  We walked up to the Champs Elysee to big Mac, our saviour for toilet and coffee then off for a stroll down the Champs Élysée.  On the way we strolled through Paint Pointe?? where all the exclusive shops are.  Yves St Laurent and Pierre Cardin men's.

The restaurant was beautiful but a little out of our league.  Marzipan shops beautifully done and expensive.  The French, like the whole of Europe, have a sweet tooth.  We strolled on past the Minister for Interior office where gendarmes stood at alert with guns.  Quite a sight in Europe.  Past the Royal Palace and petite Palace - a lovely street.  Down the Champs Élysée we arrived at Place de la Concorde where in the French Revolution the guillotine stood in a huge wide square with wide streets, where they pulled the carts with their victims standing in.  It is quite a place where once heads rolled.  Cars try to bowl bodies.  A huge obelisk stands high in centre. Over to the Tuileries, a lovely spot dotted with statues - a pond stands at the head of a walk to the Louvre-  once the palace and gardens.

We lunched by the pond and strolled up the walk on yellow and gold autumn leaves, a beautiful sight.  Turned before the Louvre and strolled along Rue Rivoli a mixture of souvenirs and expensive shops, until we came to W. H. Smith where we were in our glory among English books and English-speaking people.  The kids & San bought a couple - we browsed for ages.  The books are twice as dear as England.

On up Rue Royale where Maxine's is $40 a lunch so we strolled on quite content with our roll and cheese to Place Madeleine where rain put a stop to our gazing in such exclusive shops as Fauchon where one piece of chocolate was 10 francs or one dollar 70.

It is all done up so beautifu,l but Oh boy only for the oil kings I think.  Their fruit shop had fruit from all over the world - Kiwi fruit 17 francs or two dollars 80 each.  Their delicatessen made our mouths water so we decided to go home to our quiche Lorraine and veggies.  The quiche Lorraine was $13 or 78 francs so we bought one at a supermarket for two dollars 50.  Caught the metro back to Port Malliot then the bus to Bois de Bologne and home after hassling with the Post Office re mail and shopping.  Thunder and lightning kept us on the move till we arrived home.

Friday, 23rd October, 1981    cold

The boys were tired after their return to town last night.  John took Sean in to see the lights of Paris and Pigalle at night - they missed the last bus home and had to walk and hitch hike.  About 1 km from home a Range Rover picked them up.  Had to pass the ladies of the night in the street.

We were a bit slow-moving so decided we would eat in town for tea.  We got the bus and the metro and walked to Notre Dame.  A lovely old church on an island in the Seine.  There has been a cathedral there since 900 AD. Had a cheese roll outside this magnificent building then walked up to George Pompidou Centre, a huge modern building mostly made of glass with escalators on the outside of the building.  Quite a contrast to the older structures here in Paris.  We decided to go for a trip on the R E R metro so chose Roissy-St Leger on the outskirts of Paris - a fast ride but gave our feet a rest.  Then back into town to see Paris by night - walked along past Moulin Rouge, giggled at the puppets in the window, and the men selling tickets outside sex shops.  Hunger pangs reminded us of tea - so we returned to a shop we found that p.m.  A pizzaria where we had a lovely filling meal for 27 francs each $4.20 3 courses and coffee and each one tasty.  Then home to bed. Brought scarves - Piere Patricia

 

Saturday, 24th October, 1981                      fine and cold

The car had to be recharged so Sandra and Rae went to American Express for mail - too late have to wait till Monday now.  Sean and I stayed with John - the gay life caught up with our boy, he slept till 10 a.m. then, when we left fell asleep again until 1 p.m.  Had a day home on his own.  John and I followed the others in about 12 midday met them in the Tuileries lunched, and then went to the highlight for me, the Louvre.  I thoroughly enjoyed gazing at the Mona Lisa behind glass and under guard by a nose picking sleepy eyed fellow.  The paintings of greats like Leonardo da Vinci, Van Dyck - and many others were a delight to see, so many to gaze upon - spent quite some time with the paintings then down to see Venus de Milo - had my photo taken beside her - she stands in the centre of a long room among other ancient sculpture.

Back home after a coffee in a bar near the Tuileries as John was taking Sandra for a night on the town.  Went for a walk up to Suresnees whilst they showered etc when we arrived home Sean had not let the sunshine go to waste.  After he lunched, he aired all the van and sleeping bags and prepared tea for Rae and me and himself.  San dressed up in her London ₤9.99 suit and looked very chic.  She made a faux pas to some people John was talking to.  She said the kids said act like an American tourist and the lady was an American.  She laughed.  We are not terribly impressed with the French people - they look as if they need an infusion of big brown Australian blood.  Sandra reckons they are hungry as we see everyday quite a few nose pickers on the bus and metro.  Lots of funny things happen on the metro - buskers are plenty.  One the other night played whilst his mate took around the hat.  Nil coins and someone clapped when he stopped and quite angrily he said

“No pay no clap" and hopped off looking for something greener

Sunday, 25th October, 1981                     fine a.m. and cold

Rest day today - we stayed in bed to 11 a.m. then rose and cleaned the van.  All had allotted jobs.  Sean washed outside, Rae cleaned the cabin and Sandra, the van and I did the washing, John repaired.  We were busy bees for some hours.  It started to rain so we played cards all afternoon and early bed. Oh boy is it cold here now.

Monday, 26th October, 1981                    rain and cold

We’re going into town to the impressionist museum - then we’re going to have a barbecue with some Australians - Don & Lee and Canadians when the rain washed that out.  So went up town, posted parcel to Karen with souvenirs and boys birthday presents.  What a hassle with the public servants, either can't or won't understand us - the Frenchman.

Filled the larder and invited Don and Lee to afternoon drinks - had a good stimulating afternoon with them whilst it rained and blew outside.  Talked till all hours - ate, then read.

Tuesday, 27th October, 1981

We got up early and off to museum.  Sean Rae and I went in on the minibus.  

Luxembourg to Paris, France

Neckarzimmern to Luxembourg

 Monday, 12th October, 1981            rain and cold

Arose tired but decided to move on.  It wasn't a very nice camping area.  John and Sean wanted to see the Mercedes Museum so here we are in a parking lot waiting.  

Winter is definitely here - it is cold, windy and wet.  No headaches inherited from p.m.  This town is oozing in Mercedes.  Pa Marsden would die to see his beloved of Mercedes here amongst every other car.  We parked in a place where we were the only odd one out.  The boys enjoyed the museum where they saw the very first car invented.  It hasn't stopped raining.  We took off towards Heidelberg -found a supermarket -  a huge conglomerate way out in the never never.  Restocked the larder, bought some wool for Rae to knit us all warm socks, and for me to crochet Sean a rug.  Then off on the road again where not long after we ran into a traffic jam, so decided to go back and get petrol and take the autobahn to Neckerzimmer, where we could divert to Heidelberg by a pretty busy road.  Not long after that a policeman diverted us again.  However we eventually found the road and after a couple of hours very wet driving arrived at the little river Necker.  The camp area is closed so here we are at the gates.  Blanket bathing.  We have company up the road so all is well.

Tuesday, 13th October, 1981            fine and cold

Well, we all slept fairly well at Neckerzimmer outside the camping area.  The rain had gone and the sun was out when we moved towards Heidelberg.  Along the Necker river to Swingenburg, and Eberech, where we sent our parcels to Davansos and Karen.  Stopped for a photo of the locks, all the way down the river you'll find the locks.  On to Neckesteinach where we found a camping area on the riverbank.  Tidied up and off to catch bus into Heidelberg.  We alighted at the Schloss and walked up a steep cobbled path to the castle, the only thing that stopped us renegging was all those elderly people walking up - canes and all.  The chairlift was available but we preferred Shanks pony.  The castle was built in 1200 and Ludwig 1 was its first occupant.

It is constructed of red sandstone and boasts architectural knowledge from Gothic to High Renaissance.  We spent quite a few hours wandering about the gardens and exterior.  The males went down to inspect the wine vat.  We had a drink in the cafe, was very cheap, and then walked down to the old town again.  A slow amble around the town walk, showed us many old buildings.  Heidelberg is a university town and is where the movie "the Student Prince" was produced.

Wednesday, 14 October, 1981

Awoke to a full car park and a wet bed.

On the road again, said goodbye to the beautiful Heidelberg Schloss and on our way to look for a laundromat.  It is a week since we have used a laundromat and it is raining again.  Life can be miserable with no clean clothes and wet inside.  We stopped at Speyer - a nice town.  No laundromat - on through Weingarten where at every gate people were selling bags of potatoes.  Out-of-town farmers were hand harvesting potatoes and loading them into Mercedes.

We stopped at Landau for lunch, people were friendly.  John stopped right outside a bakery and we couldn't resist their pastries.  On then through small villages to Pirmesens where John did a memory lane walk, here 16 years ago he was escorted out of town by both the USA police and the Deutscher police.  There are big USA bases here in the district plus NATO at Heidelberg.  

It had started to rain and so on we drove to Zweibrucken where once again no laundromat.  A lady at dry cleaners told Sandra there was one at the airbase, so John drove up in the pouring rain to the gate - explained our proble.  The guards gave us the pass and in we went - a lovely warm Laundrette with everything one wanted - but only operated on American coins so John went to find an exchange and came back with the required coins and were just going to start the machines when in came the cavalry.  I mean police.  Can't use this shouldn't be here etc.  Sandra told them the truth - they let us do the washing and drying -  whilst the machines worked we had out to sit in the van.  Then down the hill to a free park.  It was still raining.

Sean's birthday tomorrow and he wants a McDonald's

Thursday 15 October, 1981  Sean is 14              still raining

Awoke to rain again - it had seeped in through vent on to my bed.  We dressed and John drove to the station for the toilets.  Sean is 14 today - loved his presents -  a platter of cheese plus 50 deutsche marks from Sandra, pen set from Rae and bubblegum plus 10 deutsche marks from me.

It is still raining as we head for Luxembourg.  Heard the song,  "What's a matter you" in the railway station, Shaddap You Face we followed the Saar river through Saarbrucken on our way to Luxembourg.  Seeing it was raining we decided to give Trier a miss - too wet to sight- see.

Arrived in Luxembourg about 1 p.m.  The kids changed their money into 10 deutsche marks at the German border.  We parked then went for a walk waiting for the banks to open at 1:30 p.m.  Amazing how all stops at midday in Europe.  First thing - we went to the tourist bureau to obtain information, asking intelligent questions, and then the last one made the clerk look surprised

“Is there a McDonald's in town"?  He must have had strange thoughts about these tourists.

Anyway there was no Maccas so we had to content ourselves with Wimpy bar food.  And it was very nice.  Took all of our Belgian francs 2.25 cents to the Belgian franc - legal tender here, along with Luxembourg francs.  We were starving.  Sean was happy - we then went for a walk to the bank to exchange deutsche marks.  Then off to the camping area.  Not very clean and no toilet paper but a handy bus ride to town.  Still raining as we went to bed.

181 Luxembourg francs equal 10 deutsche marks

Friday, 16th October, 1981                      fine and cold

We got up and aired the van and tried to dry the mattress - the sun was shining so we aired the double mattress.  Then off to see lovely Luxembourg.  A city built atop of a huge gorge. 

Two viaducts plus a big Red bridge connect the opposite sides of town.  Below in the gorge are beautiful gardens.  Castle casements stand in the gorge.  

Sean and John went in to the underground in the bowels of the earth through the tunnels where Roman soldiers and later Austrians walked whilst the battle was progressing above.  It is essentially a Roman Catholic country.  It is ruled by a constitutional monarchy - Grand Duke Jean and a Cabinet of 11 ministers.  We were taken on a city walk by our often absent-minded but illustrious guide.

Luxembourg

By the time we had seen General Patton's head-quarters at the end of the walk, we were hungry and exhausted.  John shouted us lunch at a French restaurant.  The meal was huge and delicious, but the waitress was quite rude.  I think we frighten off some people.  She could speak reasonable English, but was too hasty.  Still we laughed a lot and liked our Luxembourg meal.  Went looking for shoes for the boys and Sandra but to no avail - every time San goes looking for shoes she ends up buying for someone else.  

We had a long wait for the bus back to camp.  John and Sean walked the 3 miles back and just beat us by three minutes.  Reorganised the van and into bed, where Sean was awake all night with stomach cramps.

Neckarzimmern to Luxembourg