Showing posts with label Middleham. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Middleham. Show all posts

Thursday, 9 February 2023

Melrose to Ripon

Saturday, 5th September ,1981                  light rain a.m.  sunny p.m.

Left our dear little camping area at Melrose with the funny custodians and headed for Hexham, through Jedburgh, Kelso, Coldstream, across the Tweed River into-Ye-old England leaving bonny Scotland behind.  

The rural area here, with its dales and hills, reminds me of home.  Lush pastures supply ample feed to fat sheep and cattle.  All this area is textile and wool.  We travelled on towards Holy Island on Lindisfarne where St Bede brought the Christian culture in the seventh century.  This golden age was brought to an end with the coming of the Vikings and the monks disbursed on to the mainland.  A Norman abbey still stands on the hill overlooking the sea and the village. 

Lindesfarne Castle with Sean and Rachelle in foreground

You can only drive to the island over a causeway at low tide.  It is a good bitumen road about 3 miles long across the Budai Cove.  We strolled through the village and had morning tea and continued on our way.  Passed Bamburgh Castle overlooking the sea.  "Sea Houses” a row of identical homes built on seafront.  

In Alnwick we were confronted with a problem - how to get through a 9 foot high gate when we were 9'3".  Here was Rae on roof with our tape measure and John and Sean measuring height - illegally parked into the bargain.  We had to renege and go around.

On to Hexham - the campsite was the worst one we have found.  Went for a walk into town and then home for tea and shower.

As I was feeling a little nauseated they decided to stay home and listen to radio 2, a very good Rogers and hearts session.  Sandra, John, Sean, and Rae returned to town to the pub and a fair.  Rae met girl guides and exchanged badges.

When driving out of Holy Island we saw hundreds of pilgrims, some walking through mud, some on the road and some in buses.

 Sunday 6th September                        raining

Left early - the camping area was substandard.  It had permanent caravans as its main income. As we entered the park John had this big concentrated talk with an old man near the gate.  He listens and then said "young’un- I'm deaf, the warden is over there."  

We went to a lovely church in Hexham - part of Mass said in Latin as the Assistant Priest was French.  Sang lovely old hymns, they didn't shake hands for peace be to you except a little Downs syndrome child next to me and her mother -  aliens like us I guess.

After mass we headed for Sean's highlight - Hadrian's Wall. But first we went to Vindalana - an ancient city unearthed some 10 years ago, all the evidence of a Roman fort and city behind the wall. It was misty wet rain so we all came back wet and miserable - my service shoes kept me dry.

Then on to “Twice Brewed” and “Once Brewed " tiny towns with information Centres.  Spoke to 10 young people walking to Scotland.  In this weather?

Now here we are at "Housesteads" 3 miles from steel point where we lunched.  The kids jumped out before lunch and took off along the wall. By the time I followed to take a photo they were little ants on a hilltop.  Sean and John wanted to walk to 6 km to Housestead Fort so Sandra took her first trip behind the wheel - so here we are waiting for Sean and John. 

Hadrians Wall

It is foggy and misty rain outside and they arrived wet and exhausted.  Couldn't see 2 feet ahead of them.

On our way to rest  - it is Father's Day and should be a day of rest for our driver, but he wanted to walk the wall with his son.  Settled here at "Castleside Camp” out of Consett and the sun is shining after a miserable morning.

Monday, 7th September,1981                fine but overcast

Breakfast - batten down - and off about 9:30 a.m. for Durham.  The English still tickle my fancy with their clarity of roadside notices.  Just outside the camp on the way to Consett was a notice "crawler Lane” - good as "short park", "long park". Consett seemed to be a dead town.  It was a steel industry town but they appeared to have closed down.  Garages were closed and homes were derelict.  We saw our first rag and bone man in his horse and cart with his ware packed in the back.  We arrived in Durham about 10 a.m., parked and went for a walk.


A lovely university city, the main streets in the centre of town all go around in mediaeval style and leading to the beautiful St Cuthbert Cathedral.  We spent some time there.  The Venerable Bede is buried there.  The cathedral was begun in about 1081 and completed in four stages in 1490.

The North door with the Sanctuary knocker was put there in the 12th century to give sanctuary to any criminal who sought it.  He was granted the protection of the church and given a choice between the trial and a voluntary exile.  John and Sean like this church.  

We drove a small way out of town after refilling the larder and parked on a lay-by for lunch.  These old men were sitting on a seat in the sun watching traffic pass we got such a big wave.  The old people spend a lot of time sitting in seats in towns and villages watching time go by.  We had quite a victory this a.m. John came in for a coffee in a coffee shop.  He reckons we have visited every coffee shop in the UK and every toilet after it.

Stopped at Middleham Castle - known for the birthplace of Richard III’s son - he also died there age 7 or 11.  

Above: Middleham Castle
 
Middleham Town

The town is a dear little village with all the shops coming off the marketplace. People laze about all friendly.  We drove into Ripon for the night - a nice town once again.  The Mediaeval Market Square, the nucleus of the village. 

We had tea out for the third time at a 16th century pub.  The "Staveley Arms" takes its name from the family of Miles Staveley who was appointed “Keeper to the Kings Gate” by Cardinal Wolsey.

At 9 p.m. we went into town to hear the town watchman blow his 1860 horn.  It has been a ritual for nigh on 1095 years, to let the people know all was well and to guide any stragglers in.  He stands on all four corners of the square under the obelisk and blows when the clock strikes 9 p.m. and then again outside the man's house before midnight.

John stayed in town for another drink and Sandra drove home.  It was dark and - going over speed bumps the car broke down.  It started to rain.  We were only 100 yards from home. Our little mechanic got us mobile again.

It was in Ripon a silly woman put her hands over her little poodle's ears so he couldn't hear the horn - "it was too loud" she said.

Melrose to Ripon