Showing posts with label Nazare. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nazare. Show all posts

Sunday, 19 February 2023

Into Portugal and Lisbon

 Tuesday, 17th November, 1981 ... cont

-then on through to Vila Formosa the town on the border.  Pulled over at a waterhole and had lunch.  These people are so friendly, wave as we passed through village after village.  Whilst at lunch the women in black were filling their water cans - carrying it away on their head.  Everywhere in the country women carry baskets of washing, and we even saw one with a gas cylinder on her head.  All the way along we were back in other world - oxen pulled the old rotary hoe and every now and again a modern tractor did its work.  Shepherds tend their sheep and an old man brought his half dozen scrawny cattle to the water troughs with his donkey.

Arrived Guarda to find camping "Ferme" (closed) so decided to head for Coimbra as you aren't allowed to free camp in Portugal.  We stopped at the town of Chelorica da Bura to get some money where the bank officials were so helpful.  They could speak English - every educated Portuguese speak English as it is taught in schools.

John did a good job driving especially as later in the day it began to drizzle.  The countryside on top of Sierra de Estrella was more lush than Spain, and as we came down the mountain signs of a dry summer and autumn were evident.  Passed through Sia and Venda de Galizes to name two villages and arrived in Coimbra about 6:30 p.m. must have been a strain on driver and navigator as the road was like the Dorrigo pass only never-ending.

Showered and into bed.  The difference in temperature is felt already.  No long socks and pops pants in bed tonight.

 

Wednesday, 18th November, 1981       happy birthday Amber

Awoke to the sounds of church bells.  We all slept in as to quote Sean "thank God for tired dads" John has cold so he slept in.  The bells disturbed me during the night and San had a restless night so we appreciated no rush.  The sun is shining and it must be 20°.  Did washing by hand like the women at the mountain and then into Coimbra by electric tram.  $.15 or 10 escudos into town.  The rate is 86 escudos to one dollar so that is good.  Local things aren't cheap -13 1/2 cents for a cup of coffee.  Three cents for a huge roll for bread.  We visited the tourist bureau and decided to visit "Portugal dos Pequenitos”, the miniatures village where all of Portugal's history has been portrayed by small to scale buildings of continental Portugal, Coimbra Portugal and its monuments, Portugal and the overseas territories.  Very well done, the figures as all the rest were done in cement.  

Portugal dos Pequenitos

We are now in Mateus Rosé country.  Libby and Cathy would thrive here on it.  Goodbye Olive and Christopher Columbus land and hello Vasco de Gama - Rosé and Port country.

The people are so friendly, willing to help and understand.  We had lunch in the "dos Pequenitos” spent quite a time there.  Saw a lady with a basket of cakes there - persuaded me to buy one for Sean and she let me photograph her.  We had our coffee in a nice clean cafe then Sean developed migraine so I took him and Rae home whilst San and John went shopping.

Caught up on diary and book.  Very warm!

Thursday, 19th November, 1981                  very warm

Got up, had breakfast with ease and off by 10:30 a.m. towards Leiria.  Decided to head for Lisbon and give Fatima a pass as the roads aren't the best going up there.  The main road to Leiria isn't too bad only cobbly through villages - it is narrow and a bit nerve racking especially when we saw a sign "accident area for the next 7 miles".  The Portuguese spin in and out of their lanes - through Pombal. 

Into Leiria at 11:59 a.m. where John took off for the bank and we went to the tourist office.  Had lunch in streets.  I caused a stir every time I stepped out in my blue towelling tracksuit; one girl grabbed at it and went into hysterics.  All the way down we saw the women in black carrying their baskets on their heads - they have strong straight backs but all have big hips and sway backs.  Women washing at local wash areas, clothes out on ground.  Oxen and donkeys pulling carts.  Even in the city of Leiria the women carried their baskets on their heads - we stopped then headed for Alcobaca the nearest camp area.  Met quite a few Dutchman taking their winter holidays at Coimbra, they were heading for the Southern area.  They are here tonight so guess will see them all the way down.  We booked in at the camp area then headed for the coast to Nazare, a little fishing village on the Atlantic. 

Nazare, Portugal

On the beach, hundreds of coloured small fishing boats wait to take to sea - fishermen repair nets and women wear their national dress.  Spent a pleasant hour wandering along the beachfront.  Sandra and Rae brought sandals as it must be 20°- we are stripped to T-shirts and I brought a hand knitted white cardigan for 1000 escudos about $15 - local wool.

This morning we stopped at the mountain to look at pottery - this area is known for pottery, woollen goods besides Mateus Rosé.

Had nice tea on arrival back at camp.  Ready for bed - met a couple from Scotland who were very helpful.

On to Lisbon tomorrow

Friday, 20th November, 1981                       sunny and warm

Up after a lazy lie in - spent some time talking to a couple from Scotland who come to Portugal every winter.  Off on road to Ria Mayor where John and Sean visited the Cave's Don Teodosis -  we lazed in the sun whilst they were away in the winery.  They received a warm welcome and were shown all over the plant and came out bearing 4 bottles of wine in gifts.  On then towards Lisbon.  On the way we saw a pig leading a lady who had it by the tail.  Though the Portuguese are a poor race, they have a pride about them.  A gardener receives three dollars a week for a six day week.

On the way to “Parqur de Campismo" we passed along a long avenue of shanties. 

Saturday, 21st November, 1981

Here in the camp area there are more English-speaking people than anywhere.  It is a huge area with a games room, TV, tennis, minigolf, washing machine, cafe, supermarket and post office.  The weather is beautiful, so spent today, lazing, washing and sunbaking.  Sean and I had a game of pool.  Met this lady who looks after the washing machine.  We spoke for three quarters of an hour and all I understood, was 5 p.m. is the knock off time.  They employ a huge staff here.  There are gardeners everywhere ladies in ablutions they do your washing for 42 escudos.

Met Titus and Charlotte Scholl - an American couple - he is a Lutheran minister.  We met through mutual interest in papers and books.

Pat's Memories of Charlotte and Titus

We have been travelling for 5 months on our trip of a lifetime.  We, being Sandra, my daughter, John, my son in law, Sean aged 12 and Rachelle 10 years old. at Lisbon in Portugal - Ou arrival at "Parque de Campiamo" we immediately began our search for English speaking travellers wanting to exchange books and papers - our last being Paris - that is how we met Titus and Charlotte.  He gave us some of his papers and Charlotte - books.  They were just like long-lost friends.

A great help to Sean & Rae next day when Sandra went into Lisbon to wish her Dad a happy birthday by phone - only to find he had just passed away.  Titus and Charlotte helped us all!

We decided to find a quiet camping area and stay awhile to regain our equilibrium, so a teary farewell to T & C - we headed south to the Algarve and settled into "Valverde" in town to shop and  found T & C doing the same.  They were in "Trindade" camp area - but after our praises of "Valverde" they beat us home.  We had many friendly eveings and day with them and our other new-found friends.



One day at lunch with another Aussie couple and Titus and Charlotte - Elaine brought out a jar of vegemite - if you knew what vegemite is to an Aussie, the first part of a baby's diet after mother's milk.  We had many weeks before we finished our 3 kilo jar and were starved for it.  Titus and Charlotte thought we were mad.

"If it's that good", he said "Charlotte & I will taste it!"  Ugh - wry faces and screwed up noses resulted.  We told them you had to be reared on it.

After a spaghetti lunch with T & C we continued on our way.  Rae was crying buckets of tears. Charlotte and Titus had now become part of her family and every good bye was a wrench but every "hello" was their joy.

We arrived in home "camping Flaminio" and imagine our delight to find Titus and Charlotte there - we had missed them in Spain and at Christmans.  As we drove into camp area we spotted the School van we all jumped out, leaving only our driver, to meet them.

They had spent time at Elche, so we weren't far in Spain away from us.  They came in for a drink after tea and we caught up on all their travels - we talked non-stop for 3 hours.  Titus took us all to "Tivoli" next day and we had the funniest afternoon.  Our driver had to ask the way many times ere we arrived at Ville d'Este.

Darkness fell whilst we were visitng Adrianas Villa, so we missed the turn to Camp - we were going the wrong way, so first opportunity Titus swung the van to right side and were caught up in a traffic snarl - about 2 hours later we arrived home - his comical comments kept 2 tired kids and us laughing.  We finished a pleasant day together with a cabbage salad and spaghetti dinner.

Another tearful goodbye to T & C

A couple of months passed before we met again.  On awakening in "Obermenzig" camp in Munich, through the beautiful snowing dawn we saw T & C's van.  The kids went berserk.  Rachelle wrote in my diary in inch high littters

GUESS WHO IS HERE!  TITUS AND CHARLOTTE, YIPPEE

We were sad to hear Titus hadnit been well and they were on their way home.  However, we spent a lovely couple of days with them.  Was glad they showed courage when we went through Dachau Concentration Camp.  The next evening the kids decorated our van with farewells to the Scholls last tea with us - Next morn our last tearful good-by.

Though T & C only touched our lives spasmonically oin that year we all benefitted by know them and have many happy memories.  

Sunday, 22nd November, 1981                     RJ's day                      fine but overcast

Rose about 8:30 a.m. to our first overcast morning for awhile.  Breakfasted, cut lunch and caught bus into town to catch the train to the coast to Cascais from Cais Do Sodne station.  Lovely day - the train runs along beside the seaside all the way to Cascais.  We had a rollercoaster ride into town on the bus.  No speed limit on buses methinks, arrived at station and had little trouble finding our way and tickets though John was short-changed 50 escudos - he quickly adjusted that situation.  Cost 70 escudos return - one dollar in our money.  Cascais is a pleasant beachside resort, lots of fishing boats, women mending and making fishnets and a lot of tourist attractions.  

Cascais, Portugal

We spent a pleasant few hours wandering the seashore, then back on narrow streets and decided to walk through new section along the waterfront to Estoril two stations up.  On the way we found a Super Mercado opened - very busy so we strolled through brought a few provisions, had our first coffee and cream, kids the gelato, then caught the train back to town.  Lisbon is built on the Río Tagus with a golden gate bridge joining two areas.  At the end a huge statue of Christ the King.

Monday, 23rd November, 1981                fine but overcast

Haven't been into town yet. San and John have gone in today to see Dr, so spent the day catching up on books and letter writing.  It rained a little last night.  Met an American whilst washing at the lavabo and he gave me about 10 books - no exchange.  We are always looking for book exchange.  The kids are busy with their own devices.  Sean has his nose in "Midnight Express" can't expect to hear much of him.  Rae and I are sitting in the sun writing and reading - am anxiously awaiting Sandra and John to return as they are going to ring Bob for his birthday and see if Karen’s lump in the bosom is okay.  You can only ring here through the Post Office - found that out after collecting hundreds of five escudos pieces.

Oh God what a black day it turned into.  Bob died in his sleep at 3 a.m.  Australian time.  Just after his 58th birthday.  Poor darling Sandra rang to wish him happy birthday and Jack answered - Jack was as stunned as Sandra because he thought we had been notified.  Norma had to tell Sandra.  They had to go onto the doctor who gave Sandra 2 by 24 hourly injections for hormones, so all should be well next week if this hasn't upset the balance again.  They arrived home about 7 p.m. and had to break the news to us.  Rae acted as expected and Sean took off breaking his heart.  John found him later.  Rae's heartache will be slower to heal as she is so emotional 11 year old.  Was quite late before we settled and ate.

Tuesday, 24th November, 1981

Arose after a restless night, as we are anxious to talk to Tony and Karen.  After two hours we were put through to Norma - the kids hadn't arrived.  Were coming up on morning flight.  I should have realised they wouldn't go up - without San there - too early.  I wish we could have been with them.  Now anxiously awaiting their letters.

We decided to keep ourselves occupied, seeing we will never see Lisbon again, and went on a hairy, scary ride up to the castle - St Georges - in a bus-cable car.  

Madrid, Portugal

Stairs are the other alternative.  Wouldn't have missed the bus ride though - little ones like our airways buses with only hand rails.  The trams here are unique too, being short and squat with old-style windows that go up and down.  We love Lisbon and the people.  We walked down through the Alfama - an area of narrow winding lanes with shops and houses abutting the road - you need a map to get in and out, tiny narrow stairways lead to all interesting miniatures squares.  

Alfama, Madrid, Portugal

The people just smile at us tourists.  San had to have her other injection so I bought the kids home.

Wednesday, 25th November, 1981

Decided to move south - so up, said goodbye to new-found friends.  Rae did shopping, a chicken quarter kilo ham, loaf of bread, five rolls for five escudos plus a kilo of apples.

Headed for Setubal.  Stopped at Azeitas as John wanted to see a winery "Lancers ".  We were all given a small bottle of Rose - then over the highway to the old winery - a lovely old building with tiles on the front.  This is called Azulezos - an old Moorish custom and adopted by Portuguese Spain and Holland.

Continued 10 km out to Setubal where we had to pass fish markets and boats to reach a lovely camping area.  It is right on the Río Sado.  All night we could hear the big boats going up and down.  Setúbal is the third largest port and is quite busy.  Right above the camp, St Philip's castle looks down upon the Bay.  Sandra and John went for a walk along the wharf to find milk and some green veggies and had a hilarious time with the little shopkeepers.  We are used to shopping in super Mercado's.  Had tea and settled early as we were tired.  Then we had a little excitement.  The warden and another man disturbed us chasing a rat around the van with a broom.

 

Coimbra to Setubal, Portugal