Paris, France to Spain

Wednesday 28th of October               find and cold

We’re on the road again.  Up & ready to go-@#%# battery *** a quick walk around the park to find jumper leads, but no one awake to start motor.  After some delay, an English owner of leads came and put us on the road again.  Well nearly went too spa to fill water tank and ran into trouble with workers.  Poor John seems to meet all the obnoxious Frenchman.  Filled up eventually and were on way to Versailles to view the castle.

Versailes, France

Oh what a beauty - a former opulent home of Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI  15^th -  everything is gold leaf - the carvings on walls, doors and furniture are beautifully done and everything but everything is gold leaf - furniture and ceilings also.  The hall of mirrors is just so beautiful with huge chandeliers all the way down the hall and side carvings holding matching lamps.  Very beautiful.  John was not allowed in with his video so he went back to the van.

The kids became bored after hall of mirrors, so Sandra and I went on a conducted tour of Louis's quarters.

Lunch (the kids have it ready) and off we went towards Chartres.  A lovely old and new city. 

Chartres, France

We walked around the old area upstairs, through narrow dark streets up to a grand Cathedral with its two different styles of spires rising high above the city.  We saw some men playing a game like bowls in a little enclosure near the canal.

On then towards the camp.  Rain and darkness overtook us so we walked the  .6 km into a lovely little French village, St Loup. The further South we go the nicer the villages and agriculture is - more intense.  They seem to have more pride in their land.  The people are nicer and we met some friendly villagers.  There is a local pride in this village, good clean roads, lovely gardens and tidy houses, a change from the North.  We had a lovely meal and in bed at 7:30 p.m.

Thursday, 29th October, 1981                  rain

Awoke to a flat tyre and anger.  But the gentleman nearby restored John's faith in the French.  He came out and was so helpful.  Our very first flat so not bad in approximately 4200 miles.

After a delay - Sandra brought bread from visiting baker - we were on our way.  I think we were an enigma in the village but they were so nice - we will free park more if we could find such villages. As it was raining we only made one stop to fill up both larder and petrol tank.  We were nearly finished at the supermarket when we were chased down the aisle - the girl singing out Casse to the checkout girls and out - they were closing to lunch!  Even the garage closed so we stayed under there and had a lunch out of the rain.

We brought French bran - Sandra reckons it stronger as her bowel burbles.  I am afraid we will run out of bran and toilet paper so keep filling up on both.  On then through Blois, through Chateau de Bogarde, a lovely village.  Over the little Loire onto Contres where we saw our first French front gardens - the further South we go the neater the villages and better agriculture - corn and sugar beet are stored differently again to the north - in long wire containers.

Over the River Loire and into Noyes, then Chateauroux to the Piscine camping area

Very clean and oh for a hot shower.

Friday, 30th October, 1981                       raining

After a lovely lovely hot shower, we slept like logs and awoke refreshed even if it is still raining.  Decided to head for Limoges 125 km away - lovely countryside, wish it would stop raining - the villages looked so nice.  The scenery is lovely but we couldn't stop so headed on to Limoges. Naturally we arrived at siesta time, so found a park outside the tourist bureau and lunched - supplying all those who pass with amusement.  Still raining, so we visited Pastaud pottery - porcelain factory where all their articles are hand-painted - an art passed down for generations.  Loved the Limoges porcelain but too expensive.  Went for a walk through town - a lovely old shop Nouvelle's galleries.  John brought a French hat - with his Wellington's brought that night, he has been christened Farmer Jones. Off then to camp where we were entertained by some Romney Gypsies.  Sean was sitting in the front cabin when he yelled "look" this little old chooky had her head in like a chook - every time we opened the door she was there.  In the showers they were peeping through the holes without saying a word.  We were glad to say goodbye to there.

The kids and I went for a walk and found a Euro Marche - huge market. We had fun just walking and looking.  John brought his Wellingtons there for 19 francs three dollars 20 back to tea and bed - still raining.

Saturday, 31st October 1981                    raining

Up early and off to Limoges centre to do the laundry.  Had breakfast in the street again whilst people went to work - brightened their day.  Sean went off and found some crab meat for brekkie.  The French like croissants and jam for breakfasts so don't go in for savoury toast spreads.  We found Son de Ble (bran) at the Euro Marche-stocked up!

Then into the mountains towards Perigueux through Chalus-Jean de Bole, all lovely villages -passed some Chateau's in the hills on the way to Perigueux a very old village situated in the hills - this is foie gras country.  Chook farms - the highway with the big notice boards advertising "Foie Gras Champions".  We had lunch in Perigueux whilst we waited for shops to open.  Off then up the mountains to Les Eyzies an area where there are lots of prehistorical caves.  The countryside is beautiful and when you arrive at Les Eyzies it is unbelievable.  The ancient rock hangs over the roads and huge caves open their great caverns to the passing traffic.  It is truffle country here.  

Les Eyzies, France

The kids went through the museum in town whilst we walked the streets - above the main street a huge prehistoric man has been carved on a natural ledge that hovers above the street.  

Prehistoric Man, Les Eyzies, France

The camping area was closed so we were directed to a "camping de la ferme".  We climbed up this mountain to a lovely farm - decided to stay until the old lady told us the Gaz had run out and no hot water.  Well to see John and Sandra trying to get money back was hysterical - I had nearly cooked tea whilst the charade was being performed outside.  Result - money back and off down mountain to find St Cyprien camping area where a fellow Australian had told us he was heading - through bush down the valley and came to St Cyprien and a lovely little village.  A lovely camping area and hot hot water

We are entertaining Tricia and Phil to night.  We'll stay here for the weekend.

Sunday, 1st November 1981                     Sun- thank the Lord

Well we had a nice evening with the people from Canberra.  They are on the way again - have nine weeks.  We are spending today cleaning, airing, drying and generally feeling good with old sol overhead.  We'll go for a long walk to St Cyprien village later for an exercise.  Phil bought in a rare bottle of Philippe Rothschild red to take home.  No touch - the boys had to be content with French beer.  Slept in this morning, after John gave us a French brekkie in bed -coffee and croissants.  We rose alive and full of life and began to air, wash, clean the van and all inside.  The rows here are divided by six-foot hedges - all mattresses, sleeping bags, blankets were strung out for every little bit of Sunshine available.  We look like gypsies.  It's the first sunshine they have had here for three weeks and the first sunny day in France.

After lunch we played cards, wrote letters and at 4 p.m. walked the 1 1/2 kilometres into St Cyprien for stimulation and that's what we got.  I bought some ice creams and the old chooky took me for 10 francs.  They talk so fast and grab at your money.  I gave her 2 x 10 francs and the way she went on, I thought she didn't have change, so she took the centimes & continued jabbering so I gave her the five francs expecting my 10 francs back but no.  Well it's laughable now but I was indignant.  John came in to rescue me and she took his five francs then brought 2 x 10 francs out of the till so I whipped one back, John grabbed his and we took off.

The ice cream was nice anyway.  Walked home in the lovely sunlight.  Showered, played cards after tea and bed.

Had a long conversation with the only other occupant of the caravan park - an Englishman retired schoolteachers - he and his wife love travelling.  Come from Uttoxeter.

Monday, 2nd November, 1981                         fine and misty

Awoke to a beautiful day, misty in the valley but as it lifted it revealed a beautiful day. 

We were off fairly early and stopped at the caves " Grotte de fonte de Gareme" which were discovered in 1902 revealing prehistoric caves with carvings from 26,000 years ago.  

Prehistoric carvings

Whilst John, Sean and Rae went on a tour (which incidentally was given in French) Sandra and I met an Australian girl travelling with two Kiwis.  We basked in the sunlight.  They were disappointed in the tour, so we had morning tea and off towards Cahors.  

Had lunch at Carsac, after finding a shop open for baguettes - being all Saints Day it is a holiday.  Then on to Sarlat.  The countryside is beautiful in this region - the prettiest in France up-to-date.  We travelled on till we found this camping area at Caussades.  It is closed so we are outside the gates - it is very warm still.  Travelled all day in shorts and T-shirt.

Tasted foie gras tonight - none of us like it - love the truffles but too dear.  John paid eight francs, about $1.60 for 100gms.

John and Sean went into town after tea and found a Renault van with a bloke inside making and selling cheese pizzas - was really tasty - we were all in bed, so sat up and ate it.

Tuesday, 3rd November, 1981               misty sunny p.m.

Just as we were leaving our camp at Cassaudes, a gendarme arrived - very nice, but "on your way chum" impression.  We drove on through mist to Auch, stopped at a little village of Mauvezin and had lunch. The sun began to lift early p.m.  Arrived about 2 p.m. and went for a walk around this lovely old town of Auch, which is the heart of the Garonne Valley.  It has a lovely old cathedral - St Mary's was begun in the 15th century and completed with the 17th century classical facade.  This is where D'Artagnan of the Three Musketeers was born.  A statue of D’artagnan stands halfway up a long flight of stone steps.  In the old part there are streets so mediaeval and hotels are built over cave-like structures from another day.  This is Armagnac country.  John pulled up for some petrol and as the entry of petrol into tank must be slow to prevent overflow - he told the man " lento lento" - I think he confused the fellow as we were told to take off in French.

The choir of St Mary's Cathedral is unusual in that it is all carved wood - very nice.  We found the camp area - an island just out of town and a funny thing happened.  Mist was coming in so I went to shower first, was halfway through when the funny little pipe smoking "custodian" came in to clean the toilets and shower "ooh ooh Madame" he called "I won't be a moment" came my reply - I saw the mop going back and forward under my door which I couldn't shut -well next moment he opens the door and with the most lecherous grin "ooh Mademoiselle" he said, closed the door and opened it again the old devil - the pipe never left his teeth.  I can't say I have had my bottom pinched by a Frenchman but I have had a big leer.  We played cards after - a good laugh and slept well.

Wednesday, 4th November,1981                   Foggy a.m. lovely p.m.

Happy birthday Karen

We got up early and through thick fog prepared to be at poste to ring Karen by 9 a.m. Said goodbye to our pipe smoking lecherous pop eye and drove the short way into Centreville to rue Gambetta.  We had a little trouble at first making connection, but the lady was so helpful she put us through.  Of course we all had traumas after talking to Karen and Kevin for three minutes, so near and yet so far.  We brought a sultana gâteau (sweet large croissant) then went back to the van to celebrate Karen's birthday with a cup of coffee.  Sandra went off to buy beautiful plate she saw the day before, then we were on our way towards Lourdes.  Bye Auch.  Hello Pyrenees country

We had to use a deviation road to Tarbes and as we came around the hills windy road we could see the Pyrenees with snow-capped tops in the distance, through the light fog.  Was beautiful.  By the time we were in to Tarbes the fog had completely lifted and it was a lovely warm day.  Earlier, in sections we left the fog behind and it promised to be a splendid afternoon.

We arrived in Lourdes about 3 p.m. I just couldn't believe I was actually here.  The scene you have known all about since childhood has actually eventuated.  We parked and had lunch whilst we waited for the tourist bureau to open then drove down to the church.

It is beautifu l -so well done - we had a 15 minute film in English on the life of Bernadette then strolled down to the grotto where we discovered we needed a bottle for water.  Sandra went back whilst Rae and I brought and lit a candle for all of our relatives and friends.  Filled the bottle from the well then wandered down to baths.  The grotto is lovely - statue of a Lady of Lourdes with the spring below.  They have mass there during the day, but we were too early.  We climbed the stairs to the crypt a beautiful chapel the first opened for worshippers in 1866 in Bernadette's presence.  Its main corridor was cut out of the rock by her father and 25 men.  Really humbles you.  A few moments meditation and on our way to basilica of the Immaculate Conception.  This was built in response to Our Lady's request that the chapel be built here.  The windows retrace the history of Lourdes.  On the right, engraved in marble, is the pastoral document of Monsignor Laurent's Bishop of Tarbes authorising the miracle.

Lourdes, France (the Catholic Weekly)

On ground level is the rosary basilica, built in the form of a Greek cross - its chancel surrounded by 15 chapels consecrated to the 15 mysteries of the rosary.

We walked along the lovely drives lined with flower beds and down to the underground basilica of St Pius 10th where masses for the sick are held - it is enormous, capable of holding 30,000 pilgrims.  Along the hills is the way of the Cross.

We were tired by then so we went to find their camp area.  The four-star one we found was 50 francs and no real hot water, so we took off and found another one which was opened but apparently we were their first visitors for awhile and we caused a flurry of activity - hot water, clean toilets etc.  They were a nice young couple but we had to have our showers by 8 p.m. as they were afraid of frozen pipes in a.m.

Played cards and exhausted nestled into bed.

Thursday, 5th November, 1981

Awoke to a clear, crystal cold day - decided to attend Mass at 10:30 a.m. in the crypt, so we hustled along and arrived only five minutes late - even though the priest spoke French you could feel the compassion in him.  God, it would make you cry to see people coming in their wheelchairs, youngsters, incapacitated people in remission from cancer and all come with hope.  It was a lovely moving mass.  A Nun came down amongst us with communion and here we all shook hands in peace, unusual in Europe masses.  At least those we have been to.  After mass John, Sean and Rae went off to find the nearest funicular but it didn't go until 1:30 p.m.

Meanwhile Sandra and I had a lively walk into town, had a cup of coffee leisurely and wrote some cards.  We did see them pass by once, then walk to post and sent our mail off.  Just about to sit in the sun in peace and they found us - so we lunched and now here I sit in sunlight - Sandra busy in van whilst the three-game ones are 1000 m above us at Pic Du Jer, 

Pic du Jer, France

one of the mountains surrounding Lourdes.  John wanted to get some film on video but the mist is closing in.  The Pyrenees are now surrounded in a blue haze.  I watched the cable tram take them right up the mountain.  Sandra and I have a lovely time in the sunlight writing and reading.  We could hear in the distance the bells of Lourdes ringing out Ave Maria.  The crew came down a bit disappointed.  The mist had settled and you could barely make out the snow topped mountains of the Pyrenees.

We set off for Pau - 35 km away to find a camping area - the first one was revolting so we took off 16 km away towards the coast.  It was terrific - clean and as much hot water as you liked.  Camp Terrier had a bath, swimming pool.  We showered, ate then drove a couple of kilometres back to the Euro Marche - our favourite outing is walking through these huge shops just looking.  We usually have a funny experience.  Sean found a 1979 Paul Rites Bouilly? for 20 francs (it was on the list Phil had given him) so as they were going through - the checkout girl queried the price (she went on as if it had been charged) over went another girl to the wine Lane "yes it is right".

So John sent Sean back to get one more - reasoning that it must have been cheap.  Just a Sean picked one up saying "good wine this" the two attendants arrived and took the last bottle so they must think it was wrongly marked.

The toys are very cheap also in comparison to home

Friday, 6th November, 1981                  overcast and cold

Left Pau this morning for the coast.  We were amused in Pau - there must be a racetrack, as part of the highway has grandstands facing it.  Sandra said she hoped there wasn’t a race on then as we chugged along.

Stopped at Puyoo for morning tea, then picnic in the brush near the beach.  Yes you've guessed it - whilst we wait for tourist bureau to open.  Found the office at the beach where, even though it was cold and overcast, people were surfboard riding.  This was in Bayonne.  Its shoreline has very little sand - must have high seas as there are man-made bays and tonnes of rock along the foreshore making it difficult to reach the sea.

Headed then for St Jean de Luz where we knew a caravan park would be open - along the beautiful far shores of Biarritz where famous people have summer homes.  Rock man-made mariners house luxurious seafaring vehicles and gracious homes line the hills above.  On then to St Jean de Luz a lovely village 8 km away.  We found the camp - restocked the larder and settled in our gypsy style - washing airing etc camping Iratzia.

 

Paris to Saint Jean de Luz, France