London to the Continent (Belgium)

 Thursday, 24th September, 1981                      rain and cold

Winter has reared its head again today - outcome the long johns and jumpers, raincoats and hats.  We were awake and dressed by 7:30am waiting to commence our journey to Canterbury but disaster - flat battery!  We rang the RAC and two hours later they arrived - a few minutes later and we were off to the garage but once again disaster - couldn't do 9000 miles service in full today so back to Crystal Palace.  San and John went off to town to pick up lost credit cards.  Sean prepared our route and checked the water and oil and Rae and I went up town to buy rolls etc for lunch.  We ate, played games and cooked tea.

And so at 2:30pm and here they are, and we’re on the road again.  Car booked in for 9:30a.m. in Canterbury so we trundled on to M2.  Diverted to Northfleet to video some scenery for Marie’s father then on to Canterbury - so here we are all inside whilst wind howls outside.

Friday, 25th September, 1981                        overcast but dry

We were up early, showered, breakfast and off into Canterbury to put car in for service.  John and Sean dropped us in town whilst they delivered the van.  Canterbury is a walled city mediaeval and Tudor buildings lining cobbled streets - many market squares.  I loved it.  We had about six hours to fill in.  Had my glasses fixed again, strolled around town enjoying the architecture - the great river Stour flows through and under the town.  

Canterbury, UK

One row of houses is right on the canal and you can hire a boat to see the sights.  The cathedral is not as well-kept as others we have seen. 

Canterbury Cathedral, UK

Whilst there we saw the Archbishop of Canterbury being photographed.  There were no great crowds to see him.  After shopping we met John in van and headed for Dover - and the white cliffs.  I am excited about being here and tomorrow we're off to the continent.

 

Saturday, 26th September, 1981    a.m. Gale force winds and rain  p.m. fine and cool

Well awoke this morning, our last awakening in England for a few months.  Had a dreadful night with Gale force winds and rain. What a pity after all beautiful weather we have had to see this black raging morning.  We were all nervous but valiantly prepared for the crossing.  

We had camped all night in a car park behind a sports centre.  John had asked if we could have a shower and was told "yes I'm kind to foreigners just pay your 20p" so we had marched in thinking every moment to be asked to go, however we had lovely hot shower.  At last we were ready and off to the docks, through the toll only to be told we hadn't been booked in but to go through and wait.  Oh woe is me that every guide waved us on and placed us in line beside the tour buses.  Aboard at last, and first at that at the head of the long line, then upstairs and great excitement as we found a table and settled down for a long rough trip.  

White Cliffs of Dover

The boat quickly filled and right on 8:30a.m. we left Dover and headed for open seas -everything looks so bleak and wet but couldn't dampen our spirits - the Townsend Thoresen headed for Zebrugge.  Coffee could be purchased, also liquor.  The Duty-free shop displayed all sorts of ware but no postcards of the ship.  About 9:30 a.m. a call for the cinema "Superman 11" so it filled in two hours for the kids and kept Rae's mind off her nausea.  But five minutes after she returned to her seat it got the better of her.

The weather lessened in ferocity as we neared the Belgian coast.  We stood upfront to watch the Townsend Thoresen float into the harbour then we went down into the car.  We were the very first off onto Belgian soil - through customs and cleared we headed for Bruges.  Good roads - John had to remember to drive on right side of road.

All of Europe is metric so it's back to kilometres again.  We forgot to change any money so we had to find bureau de change.  Belgium is a flat country sparsely populated.  The only fields which have fences are the ones with animals.  All corn, vegetables and fodder are unfenced.  The houses so far have a Dutch flavour, brick stumpy windmills are common.  

Into Bruges Market Square and found a park near canal and walked. Oh! the shops are full of delicious food.  The smell of meat being cooked outside was too much - we haven't had barbecue since we left home.  We bought weisswurst on roll with mustard and a tub of chips cooked whilst waiting - delicious.

Bruges, Belgium

We had difficulty with the francs - 42 francs to one dollar Australian.  Lots of laughs but managed.  Everyone is so friendly.  Can't get over us coming so far to visit.  Well here we are snug in a camping area - Voorhout - (our first European one). The weather had cleared, the sun shone late afternoon, we had to put our watches on one hour.  

This camp has a large entertainment area where everyone meets - so friendly service, beer, coffee, entertainment for children.  We are off on a bush walk with some people tomorrow.  Goodnight

Crystal Palace, UK to Voorhout, Belgium

Back to London

Sunday, 13th September, 1981                    fine with showers

Slept in.  We cleaned the van, all the cupboards and washed.  Boys took Rae into London to see some sites.

We had a lovely day without the hassle of up and moving.  We read and rested after cleanup.

Monday, 14th September, 1981

We left early to collect much looked forward to mail.  Sat in coffee shop and all read.  Rae got one from Jenny, Sean from Brett, San from Bob, Harry & Hazel and Marie and I had birthday cards and three letters from Karen.  Each one with sad news.  One feels so useless and despondent when a loved one is hurt by loss in Australia.  First reaction is one of fleeing home when one realises this is purely selfish.  Despite feeling sad, I travelled along all day as Sean had arranged our day.  John went off on his own, and we took a bus to Madame Tussaud's - very interesting, but I expected more. I didn't like the dark rooms.  Then on to bus and off to Hampton Court.  We changed buses at Hammersmith flyover and on to Hampton.  It took 40 minutes in the first bus and one hour in the bus to the castle.

Hampton Court, London

It was raining as we alighted from the bus - we were dying of thirst - so first stop was the coffee shop.  The weather was terrible and wet, but we then went on to the maze.  Had a fun half-hour there.  An old man tickled our sense of humour - he had had enough and wanted to get out, come hell or high water.  Then off to the castle where Henry VIII and all the wives lived.  A huge lovely 16th century castle with beautiful gardens.  Lord Woolsey built it and dirty old Henry took it off him.  Then back home on over three buses.  It is about half an hour on a bus from Crystal Palace to London.

Tired and into bed.  In the bathroom I was sharing heard male voices in the bathroom came to see two Frenchmen merrily washing in basin - mixed bathing in England?

Tuesday, 15th September, 1981                  overcast but fine night

Up casually and off to town again on another Sean prepared day.  He spends hours mapping over routes, and has never lost us yet.  We have had a little Frenchman living in a tent behind us.  Very friendly - John said "looks like we've got rid of Pat" but he only had a bicycle not a tandem.  He is 71 years old and doing England on his own, just his little tent and bike.  

St Paul's Cathedral, London

Went off to London to see St. Paul's Cathedral.  I rang Karen before our tour, great to hear her voice and good news after all tragic news in mail.  Walked through St Paul's - I like it - Rae, John and Sean climbed up the dome and as Sandra and I walked in and waved from way at the top.  During the war all the area around was razed with bombs and St Paul's suffered very little damage.

Whilst there a priest gave us all a blessing, when he told us to keep quiet - we thought bomb, because everywhere you go in London they search your handbag or bags.

We had lunch in the square outside and an added bonus, kids playing basketball, then we walked down to Australia House to read the latest news.  We were news starved - haven't heard any Aussie news for five weeks.

We strolled off down to NSW house, past the gift shop but Vegemite was expensive - three times dearer than home £1.90 a pound, so we go without.  Decided to vote for NSW polls seeing we do have a stake there.  Pick up mail - letter from Tony and Billy - much excitement -Amber going to preschool.

Caught the London Tube from Piccadilly to Kensington South to visit the museums.  Hate the tube but love the museums.  Geological was very good.  A simulated earthquake kept the kids amused.  Then we went next door to the Science Museum, one needs a week to see everything - very well done!

We have decided to stay in town to see the lights of Piccadilly Circus, so we strolled back to town via Hyde Park watching the world go by.  We found a nice clean Pizzaria and had tea.  Very nice and we were starving.  Strolled around till lights came on about 8 p.m.  We were disappointed as Coca-Cola didn't come alive.  Home by bus and into bed.  Well done Sean -a good day!

Piccadilly Circul, day and night

Wednesday, 16th September, 1981               spitting

Shopping this a.m., then wrote letters. 7 of them and five cards.  Had a quiet afternoon - the little Frenchman said goodbye, off to Kent on his bike.  Late afternoon Sean came in on his own to our surprise.  John and he had gone to Greenwich on their own and to the Cheshire Cheese pub - a little old pub in Fleet Street.  John had put him on the bus and he came home on his own all the way from London - he is a good little navigator.

Thursday, 17th September, 1981                   cool and showery

Into London after a morning organising boxes to send parcels home.  Just to look at shops in Regent and Oxford streets.  What had started out as a casual peaceful day ended in a mean horrible way.  Sandra had cashed her travellers cheques and luckily put most of it and her passport into the money belt.  The kids have fits when we pull our jumpers up and unzip our belts but after today that is the best place for them.

On way home we hopped on the bus home and were jostled by two young men nearly pushing Rae off.  When we got upstairs and settled Sandra found one bastard had unzipped her purse and pinched her money purse with credit cards - to our utter chagrin.  We were so wild, Sandra nearly busted the phone up here ringing through to American Express.  Cost her nearly £3 in this phone system.  Had a happy letter from Karen yesterday.  Made us laugh -picked up photos today.  Very good!

 Friday, 18th September, 1981                        wet and fine

Day home washing, packing presents.  The kids stayed with me as Sandra and John were busy following up stolen credit cards etc.  They had a nice day without the kids and me to disturb them.  Found out 10 kg box to send home by post cost ₤36 so we are looking for an alternate way.  Sent Karen's birthday present by padded bag.

Saturday, 19th September,1981                    fine and cool

I do declare winter is here!  A bad storm rocked the van all night.  We were dry, but woke a few times.  We felt sorry for the little tents - don't see big tents like ours - just two men mainly young people.  We had to run for the bus, it waited.  The bus crew have been very kind to us expatriates.  We went into town - let the kids roam wild in the world's largest toy department store.  We strolled round on the perimeter of the grounds.  We then found a little park and had our brown homemade roles, very nice.  The pigeons thought so too.  Had T-shirts printed for all the little ones at home.

Went down to the embankment to see the Abbey, Thames national show, barge races, rowing aerobatics and carnival plus millions of people.  John lined up to buy a beer - found himself on a Fosters line and he received it free - all beer free to Aussies but Foster's only.  All along the embankment there were stalls with free Coca-Cola and Orange aid.

 Sunday, 20th September, 1981

Packed a lunch and off to see the Tower.  We alighted at Victoria and walked about 2 miles to the Tower, only to find we were too early.  It didn't open till 2:30 p.m.  So we ate a lunch on the Embankment attracting a hive of bees and fat pigeons.  Then walked to Westminster and on to Hyde Park.  Visited Westminster Catholic Cathedral  - a beautiful construction built in 1880.  From there we walked to Hyde Park to hear speakers Corner - lots of people seem to make this their Sunday afternoon entertainment, both participating and listening.  Sean and Rae had a mad race across the park.  London is full of entertainment.  People preaching, anything from politics to religion, people saying rosary and at night the Salvation Army marching up the road at Crystal Palace with a string of traffic some miles long, with only one car objecting.  This is a free country like Australia.

Monday, 21st September, 1981

Rest and cleanup day.  Met an American family of five travelling to Europe by tent and Eurail.  If it rains things will be uncomfortable!

Tuesday, 22nd September, 1981

Off to see the Tower, very impressive but depressing - saw changing of the guards of the Tower which I liked.  We walked through the bloody Tower where so many tears and heads must have been shed.  There is a walk where Sir Walter Raleigh walked in the sunlight for 12 years whilst imprisoned.  We strolled through the Crown Jewels departments.  The first section holds pure gold wine caskets, tureens, serving plates dating back to Charles 1 and William and Ann. 

Tower of London, crown jewels

Then you go downstairs into a huge Chubb strongroom box and here lies royalty’s wealth - crowns and staffs and robes, diamonds and rubies adorn all.  Queen Elizabeth II’s crown is very impressive. From there to visit St Johns Chapel a Normandy built church with winding stone steps going up the equivalent of three stories.  We lunched, then into town to the Spanish Consul to pick up our visas for when we go into Spain.

Wednesday, 23rd September, 1981

Went for a picnic down to the park and sat amongst prehistoric monsters, a lovely park in the heart of London's suburbia.  Tomorrow we leave for Dover.

 

Happy Birthday, Pat travelling to Crystal Palace

 Friday, 11th September, 1981         happy birthday, Pat            fine and sunny

We awoke to a lovely morning after a raging night.  No one settled too early with the heavy rain and wind.  Sean had done a good job guiding us into a corner, out of the mainstream of wind but we still rocked occasionally from the force.  On the road to Burton-on-Trent we aren't going to Derby.  I rang Margaret's brother - very nice people but as we were going through Derby early morning they would all be at work so on to the brewery town.

John and Sean enjoyed a morning in the Bass brewery.  We walked around town, filled the larder and read.  Had lunch in town Park then headed for Ashby-de-la-Zouch, a town with such a grand name derived from Danish settlers.  Behind Georgian and Elizabeth homes - a ruined castle stands, which once belonged to la Zouche.  The walk revitalised us so we proceeded to Bosworth to walk around the perimeter of the battle of Bosworth where Richard III was defeated by Henry VII in 1485.  A white rose blooms where Richard is said to have died.  He was the last of the Plantagenet - so began a Tudor line down to our present Queen.

Richard 111

John took some video shots.  We ran around the grassy slopes relieving our pent-up energies.  And here we are in Shakespeare country at Stratford upon Avon.  Everyone has shot off in a new direction.  Tonight we are having a birthday tea - salad and ham.

We passed through Coventry where Lady Godiva rode the horse bareback in the 11th century to protest against her husband's oppression of the people of Leofric.  There is a clock in the marketplace of lady Godiva riding past and a peeping Tom peeping out.  In real history the peeping Tom is the only one who did see Godiva nude.

Had a lovely birthday with presents, kisses and cuddles.  My choice of tea - ham and salad and scones jam & cream for sweets.  We lit one match on centre scone and sang happy birthday.  Besides the kisses I received a Wedgwood jug from S and J, a little plate and stand from Rae, jars of tasty jam from Sean and a plate stand all made a nice day with the presents I had enough from home from………..

 Saturday, 12th September, 1981        Fine

Awoke to a sunny day after a stormy night.  Three nights in a row we have had rain and wind then lovely days.  Still in summer night wear.     

We were up early and off to town.  Stratford upon Avon to beat the traffic for a parking spot.

We had been into town the night before for a walk.  It is a pretty town on the Avon River but like elsewhere very commercialised.  

We had paid 80 p to see Shakespeare's cottage - there was really very little on his life to see.  Anyway we can say we were there - a mediaeval Tudor cottage, Ann Hathaway’s is thatched roof.  They have both been preserved by Shakespeare birthplace society.

Then off to the Cotswolds.  Lovely countryside, down Dales and up hills, passing through villages completely built from sandstone from the Cotswolds mountains.  Quite showpieces but difficult to find common food.  All the villages once again, cater for the thousands of visitors.  I walked nearly 1 1/2 miles to buy bread in Chipping Broadway, sufficient tea shops and gifts shops but where the population buy their provisions I couldn't find out.

We drove in to Stow-on-the-Wold for a drink.  Visited a little pub and got quite a bonus.  There was a group of Morris dancers practising in the pub.  We spoke to them and they put on an impromptu rehearsal dance for us.  It is an old Cotswold custom revived for a year now and becoming quite popular.  There were 8 dancers, two musicians {one fiddle and one accordion) and a joker - very entertaining, all male too from middle aged to two young teens.

At Market on Marsh we stopped and picked our own blackberries and apples.  Huge orchard and an hour’s fun.

We decided not to stop at Oxford (no parks) and came straight on to the Crystal Palace, London and here we are recovering from trip number 1 and deciding on trip number 2.

 

Burton on Trent to Crystal Palace, London

Ripon to Chester

 Tuesday 8th September, 1981                rainy and overcast

We had breakfast and out in the rain for a walk.  We drove into Ripon to see the village by daylight.  We decided we would like to live in Ripon.  Bought lovely hot wholemeal rolls and a cake from an old fashioned bakery.  Then took to the highway again for a few miles out of Ripon to Fountain’s Abbey - the ruins of a Cistercian order built in the 1132 AD.  Set in 600 acres of the most beautiful gardens and lakes we have seen in England - 13 Benedictine monks came here from York in dissatisfaction with the laxity there and the first year sheltered under the Elm tree - in time it became a huge sheep farm.  In 1768 it was united with Studley Royal and is in the hands of the Department of the Environment.  Acres of beautifully kept lawns with arbours of trees sheltering wildlife - we saw herds of wild deer roaming freely, pheasants and other birds pecked in the bush near the paths quite oblivious to us intruders - with regret we left.

A quick stop in Harrogate where a national carpet fair was being held, so consequently the old problem - no parking - we found one within walking distance.  Had lunch in van.  This brings a few raised eyebrows mostly smiles to see these invaders sitting around eating a meal - some even stand on tiptoe to see what is on the table (usually naught we are too hungry).

On through Skipton, a town we had passed close by on our way up north - "Cock a bottle Inn" tickled my fancy.  We stopped at Clitheroe after battling the traffic on the M5 for a car park.  We don't use the main roads if possible - too much traffic.  Found the dear little coffee shop "Peg's Place" in a tea house in the front rooms of a little Tudor house - home-made scones and cakes.  Clitheroe is the scene of the Lancaster trials where 20 were burnt at the stake for witchcraft.

Sean has decided to keep a diary on each town - giving it a code O.G. U.S. O is okay, G. equals good, U equals unreal, S. equals stuffed.  He has gone all around the UK in his pink board shorts, T-shirt and pink socks.  Why pink?  Somewhere in some town our washing came out pink!  Continued on till we found a camping area in Blackpool on the Irish Sea.  The kids are dying to take some rides on the much publicised pier.  We had tea, showered, and caught a bus into Blackpool Centre.

Blackpool, UK

Fares are twice as dear here as Edinburgh.  Nearly died at the end of the bus ride - we drove right into the huge depot.  Blackpool is a real union town - we asked the driver bus times - "he'll tell you” he pointed to the Times man.  The bus terminated on the beach promenade.  It was unreal - 6 1/2 miles of pleasure activity.  Blackpool is the only place that still has trams running, but now like the drivers were on strike, so we either had to hire a Landau or Shanks pony.  We decided on the latter as there was so much to see.  

Sean eyes just lit up with the palaces full of space invaders.  Rae at the ones full of machines to challenge anyone.  There are traders selling everything from fairy floss to meagre stuffed toys.  The pleasure Beach Park was right at the end of the promenade.  Our feet were dragging as we strolled along either side of the Irish Sea, when the lights began to come on, first the huge tower then the promenade.  It was unreal out of this world.  There were clowns, birds in cages, flower pots, clowns and just coloured lights.  Promenade illuminations bring people from everywhere to witness this magic.  We were still a long way from our destination, the Big Dipper.  So had lots to see and enjoy.  At last the park.  Well every ride possible and plenty of mechanical bingo.  John bought two sheets of tickets 12 rides for £7 this was about 29p or $.48 a ride - not bad!  

How they enjoyed themselves on the Big Dipper, haunted house, water flute and a more placid Alice in Wonderland for Sandra and I.  Time was running out so were energies.  At last we were ready for home.  John shouted us our first taxi ride, the type seen all over the UK with the little seats and friendly driver, as soon as we hopped in he started to check us on our cricket results.  John and he had an interesting conversation all the way home.  We thought the kids and John wouldn't settle after such an exhilarating p.m.  But we all flaked.

 Wednesday, 9th September, 1981              fine and sunny

John committed the unforgivable - left "Kane and Able" in the toilet.  Had to leave Marton Mere camping area without it.  Good-bye Blackpool and on to the M6 one of the few times we have used this mighty road.  It is so smooth I wrote my diary.  Also we had our morning tea as we chugged along as there aren't too many places to stop.  We did see a service area which stretches right across the road, service station, restaurant facilities; just before we turned off to Chester we saw an interchange highway way out in the country.

Found our camp in Chester, our first legal car park adjoining the race course with a port-a-loo shower and toilets.  

Chester, UK

It is only two minutes from the nearest pub and five into the centre, which is a mixed era. Georgian, Tudor, and Elizabethan shopfronts line cobbled streets with the main areas being the squares.  We went on a free walk with the Department of Information - it is a walled city on the Dee.  We had also crossed the mighty Mersey earlier along the M6 - built by the Romans.  Charles 1^st  is said to have stood on the wall and watched his army defeated by Cromwell.  Back home showered, ate and to bed.

Thursday 10th September                   fine and sunny

A couple of things I remembered about yesterday.  We went on the free walk which was very interesting - the guide was a farmer's wife who was very well spoken.  She showed us the restored Tudor buildings; the beautiful Georgian mansions all owned by the Earl of Westminster, Duke of Grosvenor - the third richest man in England. 

We were halfway round the wall when out of the quietness of the abbey square came this brawling couple.  The poor guide was embarrassed. 

After tea Sandra and John walked the wall again and Sean jogged.

Off on our first full tank, cheapest petrol we have seen. £1.65.  Canals line the highway.  Josiah Wedgwood was responsible for the canals from the Trent to the Dee to transport his pottery.  We had lunch at Stoke-on-Trent, then went out to Barlaston to the Wedgwood factory.  We saw demonstrations of the pottery being made - we also witnessed a film of Wedgwood from his beginnings.  We all bought presents and continued here to Uttoxeter, a small market town with a beautiful pub.

We are in a race course now - snow with the wind and rain outside.  The warden is a pig - they close down tomorrow and San says he’s cross because we are soiling his clean showers etc.  Met a nice couple at the laundromat.  Just married - the town was dead with half day closing but they were very busy.

Ripon to Chester

Melrose to Ripon

Saturday, 5th September ,1981                  light rain a.m.  sunny p.m.

Left our dear little camping area at Melrose with the funny custodians and headed for Hexham, through Jedburgh, Kelso, Coldstream, across the Tweed River into-Ye-old England leaving bonny Scotland behind.  

The rural area here, with its dales and hills, reminds me of home.  Lush pastures supply ample feed to fat sheep and cattle.  All this area is textile and wool.  We travelled on towards Holy Island on Lindisfarne where St Bede brought the Christian culture in the seventh century.  This golden age was brought to an end with the coming of the Vikings and the monks disbursed on to the mainland.  A Norman abbey still stands on the hill overlooking the sea and the village. 

Lindesfarne Castle with Sean and Rachelle in foreground

You can only drive to the island over a causeway at low tide.  It is a good bitumen road about 3 miles long across the Budai Cove.  We strolled through the village and had morning tea and continued on our way.  Passed Bamburgh Castle overlooking the sea.  "Sea Houses” a row of identical homes built on seafront.  

In Alnwick we were confronted with a problem - how to get through a 9 foot high gate when we were 9'3".  Here was Rae on roof with our tape measure and John and Sean measuring height - illegally parked into the bargain.  We had to renege and go around.

On to Hexham - the campsite was the worst one we have found.  Went for a walk into town and then home for tea and shower.

As I was feeling a little nauseated they decided to stay home and listen to radio 2, a very good Rogers and hearts session.  Sandra, John, Sean, and Rae returned to town to the pub and a fair.  Rae met girl guides and exchanged badges.

When driving out of Holy Island we saw hundreds of pilgrims, some walking through mud, some on the road and some in buses.

 Sunday 6th September                        raining

Left early - the camping area was substandard.  It had permanent caravans as its main income. As we entered the park John had this big concentrated talk with an old man near the gate.  He listens and then said "young’un- I'm deaf, the warden is over there."  

We went to a lovely church in Hexham - part of Mass said in Latin as the Assistant Priest was French.  Sang lovely old hymns, they didn't shake hands for peace be to you except a little Downs syndrome child next to me and her mother -  aliens like us I guess.

After mass we headed for Sean's highlight - Hadrian's Wall. But first we went to Vindalana - an ancient city unearthed some 10 years ago, all the evidence of a Roman fort and city behind the wall. It was misty wet rain so we all came back wet and miserable - my service shoes kept me dry.

Then on to “Twice Brewed” and “Once Brewed " tiny towns with information Centres.  Spoke to 10 young people walking to Scotland.  In this weather?

Now here we are at "Housesteads" 3 miles from steel point where we lunched.  The kids jumped out before lunch and took off along the wall. By the time I followed to take a photo they were little ants on a hilltop.  Sean and John wanted to walk to 6 km to Housestead Fort so Sandra took her first trip behind the wheel - so here we are waiting for Sean and John. 

Hadrians Wall

It is foggy and misty rain outside and they arrived wet and exhausted.  Couldn't see 2 feet ahead of them.

On our way to rest  - it is Father's Day and should be a day of rest for our driver, but he wanted to walk the wall with his son.  Settled here at "Castleside Camp” out of Consett and the sun is shining after a miserable morning.

Monday, 7th September,1981                fine but overcast

Breakfast - batten down - and off about 9:30 a.m. for Durham.  The English still tickle my fancy with their clarity of roadside notices.  Just outside the camp on the way to Consett was a notice "crawler Lane” - good as "short park", "long park". Consett seemed to be a dead town.  It was a steel industry town but they appeared to have closed down.  Garages were closed and homes were derelict.  We saw our first rag and bone man in his horse and cart with his ware packed in the back.  We arrived in Durham about 10 a.m., parked and went for a walk.

A lovely university city, the main streets in the centre of town all go around in mediaeval style and leading to the beautiful St Cuthbert Cathedral.  We spent some time there.  The Venerable Bede is buried there.  The cathedral was begun in about 1081 and completed in four stages in 1490.

The North door with the Sanctuary knocker was put there in the 12th century to give sanctuary to any criminal who sought it.  He was granted the protection of the church and given a choice between the trial and a voluntary exile.  John and Sean like this church.  

We drove a small way out of town after refilling the larder and parked on a lay-by for lunch.  These old men were sitting on a seat in the sun watching traffic pass we got such a big wave.  The old people spend a lot of time sitting in seats in towns and villages watching time go by.  We had quite a victory this a.m. John came in for a coffee in a coffee shop.  He reckons we have visited every coffee shop in the UK and every toilet after it.

Stopped at Middleham Castle - known for the birthplace of Richard III’s son - he also died there age 7 or 11.  

Above: Middleham Castle

 

Middleham Town

The town is a dear little village with all the shops coming off the marketplace. People laze about all friendly.  We drove into Ripon for the night - a nice town once again.  The Mediaeval Market Square, the nucleus of the village. 

We had tea out for the third time at a 16th century pub.  The "Staveley Arms" takes its name from the family of Miles Staveley who was appointed “Keeper to the Kings Gate” by Cardinal Wolsey.

At 9 p.m. we went into town to hear the town watchman blow his 1860 horn.  It has been a ritual for nigh on 1095 years, to let the people know all was well and to guide any stragglers in.  He stands on all four corners of the square under the obelisk and blows when the clock strikes 9 p.m. and then again outside the man's house before midnight.

John stayed in town for another drink and Sandra drove home.  It was dark and - going over speed bumps the car broke down.  It started to rain.  We were only 100 yards from home. Our little mechanic got us mobile again.

It was in Ripon a silly woman put her hands over her little poodle's ears so he couldn't hear the horn - "it was too loud" she said.

Melrose to Ripon

Dunfirmlan to Melrose, Scotland

 Wednesday, 2nd September, 1981                      overcast and cool

Up and off about 9:45 a.m. towards Edinburgh.  We drove to Dunfirmlane hoping to see some ancient castles and Robert the Bruce's burial place.  It used to be the Scot capital for six centuries but we couldn't park so we drove round the roundabout and off to Cuross - a lovely little village on the Firth of Forth - the tide was out again.  

This little town has quite a history.  The legend goes a princess was cast out and came to land here, the natives gave her succour and her son was born.  He became quite a figure in Scotland's history.  Established Dunfirmlane as capital.  Cuross traded only with the Scandinavians with their coal for many years.  The Dutch influence is still great, homes and furniture.  They have preserved the village as it used to be - cobbled streets and stone made homes abutting the road.  Public institutions are helping to preserve besides private individuals. S.R.C.C. have a base in one of the homes.  The shops sell modern where in ancient shops and homes are kept in ancient facade with a modern-day living.

We lunched there then moved on to Edinburgh - across Forth Bridge to city and out again to camping area. 

Forth Bridge, Edinburgh, Scotland

We cleaned up and caught a bus into town - 20p adults; 8p children.  It was about a 20 minutes ride.  We were lucky enough to buy tickets to the Edinburgh Tattoo £4 .00 - couldn't believe our luck!  We walked around town, found a place to eat and as the Tattoo didn't commence till 9 p.m. we strolled around watching the world go by.  Down a side street we found a shop that sold hot potatoes with a choice of any salad or food in it.  John, Sean and Rae loved them.  We stood in the square near the art museum and watched and listened to buskers, artists doing pencil portraits or witnessed some of the youth of today make noise just for the sake of it.

Kids with skinned heads, or hair dyed orange, purple and green or dark plum.  Religious groups trying to deliver their message above all din.  Fascinating but soon had to join the crowd towards the Edinburgh castle.  Well what an experience. We strolled up about 8:10 p.m. joined the line 1 mile long and waited for another 40 minutes.  Then off the line moved.  At one stage we thought we would be crushed to death.  

It took about 10 minutes to be swept up around and along to the stadium built high above the castle.  We finally were in our seats south side Area C Row V.  We sat way up high above everyone.  A magnificent view of all before us.  The tattoo commenced with the pipe band playing music from other Commonwealth nations.  "Waltzing Matilda" brought a great clap from us and all around we had Aussies (sitting next to us from Newcastle) - above us and below.  What a lovely balmy night - didn't need our coats at all.  We had one and half hours of great entertainment.  Tears ran down my face when the pipes played way up on the top of the castle.  We had police bands, pipe bands, regimental bands and Parachute Regt.  The lone piper played "The mist covered the mountains" terrific!

Police dogs showed us their prowess, Canada was the country featured this year - a wonderful display of Canadiana.

On the way out we had to move with the crowd as we had a bus to catch.  We couldn't miss it because it was quite a way to walk.  Eventually we broke out of the sardine tin and caught a bus home - very late and a very tired.

Thursday, 3rd September, 1981

John left early to ring Bob re business.  We stirred our weary bodies towards the 10:30 bus.  I wasn't feeling too happy as this is the third anniversary of Viv’s untimely death and the day before we had had a letter from Tony and Billy telling us Margaret (my sister)  had had a coronary.  I felt so helpless, but the kids are good - keep me busy and on the go - no time for self-pity.  We had a lovely day in town.  Met John - he had spoken to Karen - all is well at home.  Margaret was improving so we headed to the castle to see it by day.  It is a military exercise and therefore in good condition.

We had a lunch up there then walked the Royal mile to "Hollyrood Castle". 

Hollyrood Castle, Edinburgh, Scotland

We were disappointed not to see inside but being very tired headed for the bus and home.

Edinburgh is two cities - the new, with new fine buildings and the old city behind the castle walls.  Shops thrive along cobbled streets.  Princes Street in the new part is said to be one of the prettiest streets and a showpiece in UK.  Certainly an exciting street.

Had some excitement early a.m. after an early night.  We all work to beep beep beep -a burglar alarm went off in car next to ours.  Apparently someone stole jeans and keys out of the tent and tried to break into the car.  The patrol car was there in minutes - comforting and made us aware there are mean people in the world besides so many good.

We did see childhood museum when walking the Royal mile - Canongate - from very early mediaeval years through to 1960.  Toys, food, clothes - very well done!  To see the craftsmanship of the dolls and toys was incredible.

Friday, 4th September, 1981                    cool and windy

Had breakfast and then a ride around unseen parts of the city - then headed for the Royal areas. 

Edinburgh, Scotland

We found a park near Waverley railway station whilst John went to ring Bob.  He had been derailed at Sydney so San had a chat to Karen - felt elated with contact from home.  Margaret still on the mend.  Whilst waiting we witnessed the pipers practising for their walk down Princes Street.  The festival goes for some weeks and every morning at 11 a.m. one of the pipe bands walked down Princes Street.  Everything stops to watch and listen. 

Princes Street is said to be the most beautiful and a showpiece in the UK.  It certainly is a beautiful street.

Princes Street, Edinburgh

Whilst in the city some expats came up and spoke to us - they are here for 12 months on a working holiday. 

On our way then to Dalkeith - Traquair House - a 10th century home that had housed 27 Kings and Queens of the UK.  

Traquair House, Edinburgh - Scotland's oldest inhabited house

Sir Walter Scott wrote “the gates wouldn't be opened till a Stuart sat on the Scottish throne”.  It is now a showplace.  Beautiful gardens, poplars, candle makers displayed their arts and wares.

The border river towns of River Tweed, Yarrow, Jed and Teviot are all pretty villages - all are textile industrial small towns set in valleys and hills.

At last we came to Peebles and then Melrose and as John was not well we pulled up for the evening and went for a stroll round town.  A Cistercian Abbey is the focal point of Melrose. 

Melrose Abbey

I should have said Robert the Bruce's heart is said to be buried here.  Another national trust well kept.  This town is Sir Walter Scott's home town.  Weather still holds - windy but fine.

Dunfirmline to Melrose

Aberdeen to Kirkcaldy

 Monday 31st August, 1981                     cold a.m. fine pm

The first touch of autumn this morning.  All looked for warmer clothes.  After a leisurely breakfast we turned towards Aberdeen.  We took a B road to Carrbridge where we lunched after a tree walk.  The walk took you through the forest - you walked along a ramp and as you entered the forest the ramp rose gradually until you found yourself as high as the tree tops.  Clinging desperately to the long long sides and stepping gingerly on the walk I eventually completed the walk.  I had to!  I couldn't go backwards as there were dogs, children and adults behind.

Before we left Inverness we went to the laundromat where we met so many other travellers.  This time it was full of Americans, one Scot said "here I am in middle of Scotland and can't find one countryman".  Another Australian couple were there going the way we came.  Had our leaking gas jet fixed.  Stopped at Grant-on-Spey, a pretty village where we met an Adelaide girl living here in Scotland.  Marvellous the way people call us up and ask "what part of Australia do you come from?"  We drove into the countryside where the scenery is the nearest to Australian rural.  Scotland has more forest planted than England.

John and Sean visited Grants Distillery at Dufftown whilst Sandra, Rae and I walked just around the corner.  Well 3 miles up the road to the village to buy some necessary items.  One long street with a roundabout at the top with the Guildhall.  This is usually the beginning of the marketplace.  This is fairly commonplace in most small towns and villages.

On to Aberdeen.

About 6 p.m. dined and then went in to view city, a lovely city in its unusual way.  Very straight streets and large concrete uniform buildings, very wide streets are definite-planned third largest city in Scotland it is rich in history too This city is situated where the rivers Dee and Don meet.  A 48 Bell Carillion is rung daily.  St Nicholas Church, Carillion.  It is a city that cares.  Rose gardens divided the streets and line nature strips.  Skateboard parks and bicycle lanes cut hills apart.  The fish market is quite long.  We saw semi trailers with the boxes of fish along the highway.  Here too we see all dogs on leads as in England.  Have not seen one dog running free.  People take them with their children in caravans & cars.

To bed.

Tuesday, 1st September, 1981                       cold and chippy

Breakfast, showered and off towards Dundee.  Went for a drive first to see the North Sea and the port.  Cobblestones line the shore at low tide - very little sand.  Drove to Stonehaven 1 1/2 miles south of Aberdeen.  Stopped at Dunnotar castle, the last castle to be held by the royalists.  It is a spectacular fortress on a rock by the sea.  Much of the castle is 14th century and well preserved.

Dunnotar Castle, Stonehaven, Scotland

The view is breathtaking - very stimulating walk up and down to the castle.  Sir Walter Scott wrote "Old Mortality" about the castle -  the character being a real-life stonemason "Paterson"

Stopped at Arbroath, a small town that was celebrating the pageant of its abbey, where Scotland's "Declaration of Independence" was signed in 1320.  The village of Auchmithie nearby is the scene of Scots "Antiquary" the musselcrag.

John was keen to see St Andrews, the oldest golf course in the world.  It was cold and windy so we drove through the castle and headed for Falkland Castle - a mediaeval town we wanted to see but we missed the turnoff so continued on to Kirkcaldy an industrial large town on the Forth of Firth.  We are staying here over night and then on to Edinburgh. 

Inverness to Kirkcaldy, Scotland