Into Portugal and Lisbon

 Tuesday, 17th November, 1981 ... cont

-then on through to Vila Formosa the town on the border.  Pulled over at a waterhole and had lunch.  These people are so friendly, wave as we passed through village after village.  Whilst at lunch the women in black were filling their water cans - carrying it away on their head.  Everywhere in the country women carry baskets of washing, and we even saw one with a gas cylinder on her head.  All the way along we were back in other world - oxen pulled the old rotary hoe and every now and again a modern tractor did its work.  Shepherds tend their sheep and an old man brought his half dozen scrawny cattle to the water troughs with his donkey.

Arrived Guarda to find camping "Ferme" (closed) so decided to head for Coimbra as you aren't allowed to free camp in Portugal.  We stopped at the town of Chelorica da Bura to get some money where the bank officials were so helpful.  They could speak English - every educated Portuguese speak English as it is taught in schools.

John did a good job driving especially as later in the day it began to drizzle.  The countryside on top of Sierra de Estrella was more lush than Spain, and as we came down the mountain signs of a dry summer and autumn were evident.  Passed through Sia and Venda de Galizes to name two villages and arrived in Coimbra about 6:30 p.m. must have been a strain on driver and navigator as the road was like the Dorrigo pass only never-ending.

Showered and into bed.  The difference in temperature is felt already.  No long socks and pops pants in bed tonight.

 

Wednesday, 18th November, 1981       happy birthday Amber

Awoke to the sounds of church bells.  We all slept in as to quote Sean "thank God for tired dads" John has cold so he slept in.  The bells disturbed me during the night and San had a restless night so we appreciated no rush.  The sun is shining and it must be 20°.  Did washing by hand like the women at the mountain and then into Coimbra by electric tram.  $.15 or 10 escudos into town.  The rate is 86 escudos to one dollar so that is good.  Local things aren't cheap -13 1/2 cents for a cup of coffee.  Three cents for a huge roll for bread.  We visited the tourist bureau and decided to visit "Portugal dos Pequenitos”, the miniatures village where all of Portugal's history has been portrayed by small to scale buildings of continental Portugal, Coimbra Portugal and its monuments, Portugal and the overseas territories.  Very well done, the figures as all the rest were done in cement.  

Portugal dos Pequenitos

We are now in Mateus Rosé country.  Libby and Cathy would thrive here on it.  Goodbye Olive and Christopher Columbus land and hello Vasco de Gama - Rosé and Port country.

The people are so friendly, willing to help and understand.  We had lunch in the "dos Pequenitos” spent quite a time there.  Saw a lady with a basket of cakes there - persuaded me to buy one for Sean and she let me photograph her.  We had our coffee in a nice clean cafe then Sean developed migraine so I took him and Rae home whilst San and John went shopping.

Caught up on diary and book.  Very warm!

Thursday, 19th November, 1981                  very warm

Got up, had breakfast with ease and off by 10:30 a.m. towards Leiria.  Decided to head for Lisbon and give Fatima a pass as the roads aren't the best going up there.  The main road to Leiria isn't too bad only cobbly through villages - it is narrow and a bit nerve racking especially when we saw a sign "accident area for the next 7 miles".  The Portuguese spin in and out of their lanes - through Pombal. 

Into Leiria at 11:59 a.m. where John took off for the bank and we went to the tourist office.  Had lunch in streets.  I caused a stir every time I stepped out in my blue towelling tracksuit; one girl grabbed at it and went into hysterics.  All the way down we saw the women in black carrying their baskets on their heads - they have strong straight backs but all have big hips and sway backs.  Women washing at local wash areas, clothes out on ground.  Oxen and donkeys pulling carts.  Even in the city of Leiria the women carried their baskets on their heads - we stopped then headed for Alcobaca the nearest camp area.  Met quite a few Dutchman taking their winter holidays at Coimbra, they were heading for the Southern area.  They are here tonight so guess will see them all the way down.  We booked in at the camp area then headed for the coast to Nazare, a little fishing village on the Atlantic. 

Nazare, Portugal

On the beach, hundreds of coloured small fishing boats wait to take to sea - fishermen repair nets and women wear their national dress.  Spent a pleasant hour wandering along the beachfront.  Sandra and Rae brought sandals as it must be 20°- we are stripped to T-shirts and I brought a hand knitted white cardigan for 1000 escudos about $15 - local wool.

This morning we stopped at the mountain to look at pottery - this area is known for pottery, woollen goods besides Mateus Rosé.

Had nice tea on arrival back at camp.  Ready for bed - met a couple from Scotland who were very helpful.

On to Lisbon tomorrow

Friday, 20th November, 1981                       sunny and warm

Up after a lazy lie in - spent some time talking to a couple from Scotland who come to Portugal every winter.  Off on road to Ria Mayor where John and Sean visited the Cave's Don Teodosis -  we lazed in the sun whilst they were away in the winery.  They received a warm welcome and were shown all over the plant and came out bearing 4 bottles of wine in gifts.  On then towards Lisbon.  On the way we saw a pig leading a lady who had it by the tail.  Though the Portuguese are a poor race, they have a pride about them.  A gardener receives three dollars a week for a six day week.

On the way to “Parqur de Campismo" we passed along a long avenue of shanties. 

Saturday, 21st November, 1981

Here in the camp area there are more English-speaking people than anywhere.  It is a huge area with a games room, TV, tennis, minigolf, washing machine, cafe, supermarket and post office.  The weather is beautiful, so spent today, lazing, washing and sunbaking.  Sean and I had a game of pool.  Met this lady who looks after the washing machine.  We spoke for three quarters of an hour and all I understood, was 5 p.m. is the knock off time.  They employ a huge staff here.  There are gardeners everywhere ladies in ablutions they do your washing for 42 escudos.

Met Titus and Charlotte Scholl - an American couple - he is a Lutheran minister.  We met through mutual interest in papers and books.

Pat's Memories of Charlotte and Titus

We have been travelling for 5 months on our trip of a lifetime.  We, being Sandra, my daughter, John, my son in law, Sean aged 12 and Rachelle 10 years old. at Lisbon in Portugal - Ou arrival at "Parque de Campiamo" we immediately began our search for English speaking travellers wanting to exchange books and papers - our last being Paris - that is how we met Titus and Charlotte.  He gave us some of his papers and Charlotte - books.  They were just like long-lost friends.

A great help to Sean & Rae next day when Sandra went into Lisbon to wish her Dad a happy birthday by phone - only to find he had just passed away.  Titus and Charlotte helped us all!

We decided to find a quiet camping area and stay awhile to regain our equilibrium, so a teary farewell to T & C - we headed south to the Algarve and settled into "Valverde" in town to shop and  found T & C doing the same.  They were in "Trindade" camp area - but after our praises of "Valverde" they beat us home.  We had many friendly eveings and day with them and our other new-found friends.

One day at lunch with another Aussie couple and Titus and Charlotte - Elaine brought out a jar of vegemite - if you knew what vegemite is to an Aussie, the first part of a baby's diet after mother's milk.  We had many weeks before we finished our 3 kilo jar and were starved for it.  Titus and Charlotte thought we were mad.

"If it's that good", he said "Charlotte & I will taste it!"  Ugh - wry faces and screwed up noses resulted.  We told them you had to be reared on it.

After a spaghetti lunch with T & C we continued on our way.  Rae was crying buckets of tears. Charlotte and Titus had now become part of her family and every good bye was a wrench but every "hello" was their joy.

We arrived in home "camping Flaminio" and imagine our delight to find Titus and Charlotte there - we had missed them in Spain and at Christmans.  As we drove into camp area we spotted the School van we all jumped out, leaving only our driver, to meet them.

They had spent time at Elche, so we weren't far in Spain away from us.  They came in for a drink after tea and we caught up on all their travels - we talked non-stop for 3 hours.  Titus took us all to "Tivoli" next day and we had the funniest afternoon.  Our driver had to ask the way many times ere we arrived at Ville d'Este.

Darkness fell whilst we were visitng Adrianas Villa, so we missed the turn to Camp - we were going the wrong way, so first opportunity Titus swung the van to right side and were caught up in a traffic snarl - about 2 hours later we arrived home - his comical comments kept 2 tired kids and us laughing.  We finished a pleasant day together with a cabbage salad and spaghetti dinner.

Another tearful goodbye to T & C

A couple of months passed before we met again.  On awakening in "Obermenzig" camp in Munich, through the beautiful snowing dawn we saw T & C's van.  The kids went berserk.  Rachelle wrote in my diary in inch high littters

GUESS WHO IS HERE!  TITUS AND CHARLOTTE, YIPPEE

We were sad to hear Titus hadnit been well and they were on their way home.  However, we spent a lovely couple of days with them.  Was glad they showed courage when we went through Dachau Concentration Camp.  The next evening the kids decorated our van with farewells to the Scholls last tea with us - Next morn our last tearful good-by.

Though T & C only touched our lives spasmonically oin that year we all benefitted by know them and have many happy memories.  

Sunday, 22nd November, 1981                     RJ's day                      fine but overcast

Rose about 8:30 a.m. to our first overcast morning for awhile.  Breakfasted, cut lunch and caught bus into town to catch the train to the coast to Cascais from Cais Do Sodne station.  Lovely day - the train runs along beside the seaside all the way to Cascais.  We had a rollercoaster ride into town on the bus.  No speed limit on buses methinks, arrived at station and had little trouble finding our way and tickets though John was short-changed 50 escudos - he quickly adjusted that situation.  Cost 70 escudos return - one dollar in our money.  Cascais is a pleasant beachside resort, lots of fishing boats, women mending and making fishnets and a lot of tourist attractions.  

Cascais, Portugal

We spent a pleasant few hours wandering the seashore, then back on narrow streets and decided to walk through new section along the waterfront to Estoril two stations up.  On the way we found a Super Mercado opened - very busy so we strolled through brought a few provisions, had our first coffee and cream, kids the gelato, then caught the train back to town.  Lisbon is built on the Río Tagus with a golden gate bridge joining two areas.  At the end a huge statue of Christ the King.

Monday, 23rd November, 1981                fine but overcast

Haven't been into town yet. San and John have gone in today to see Dr, so spent the day catching up on books and letter writing.  It rained a little last night.  Met an American whilst washing at the lavabo and he gave me about 10 books - no exchange.  We are always looking for book exchange.  The kids are busy with their own devices.  Sean has his nose in "Midnight Express" can't expect to hear much of him.  Rae and I are sitting in the sun writing and reading - am anxiously awaiting Sandra and John to return as they are going to ring Bob for his birthday and see if Karen’s lump in the bosom is okay.  You can only ring here through the Post Office - found that out after collecting hundreds of five escudos pieces.

Oh God what a black day it turned into.  Bob died in his sleep at 3 a.m.  Australian time.  Just after his 58th birthday.  Poor darling Sandra rang to wish him happy birthday and Jack answered - Jack was as stunned as Sandra because he thought we had been notified.  Norma had to tell Sandra.  They had to go onto the doctor who gave Sandra 2 by 24 hourly injections for hormones, so all should be well next week if this hasn't upset the balance again.  They arrived home about 7 p.m. and had to break the news to us.  Rae acted as expected and Sean took off breaking his heart.  John found him later.  Rae's heartache will be slower to heal as she is so emotional 11 year old.  Was quite late before we settled and ate.

Tuesday, 24th November, 1981

Arose after a restless night, as we are anxious to talk to Tony and Karen.  After two hours we were put through to Norma - the kids hadn't arrived.  Were coming up on morning flight.  I should have realised they wouldn't go up - without San there - too early.  I wish we could have been with them.  Now anxiously awaiting their letters.

We decided to keep ourselves occupied, seeing we will never see Lisbon again, and went on a hairy, scary ride up to the castle - St Georges - in a bus-cable car.  

Madrid, Portugal

Stairs are the other alternative.  Wouldn't have missed the bus ride though - little ones like our airways buses with only hand rails.  The trams here are unique too, being short and squat with old-style windows that go up and down.  We love Lisbon and the people.  We walked down through the Alfama - an area of narrow winding lanes with shops and houses abutting the road - you need a map to get in and out, tiny narrow stairways lead to all interesting miniatures squares.  

Alfama, Madrid, Portugal

The people just smile at us tourists.  San had to have her other injection so I bought the kids home.

Wednesday, 25th November, 1981

Decided to move south - so up, said goodbye to new-found friends.  Rae did shopping, a chicken quarter kilo ham, loaf of bread, five rolls for five escudos plus a kilo of apples.

Headed for Setubal.  Stopped at Azeitas as John wanted to see a winery "Lancers ".  We were all given a small bottle of Rose - then over the highway to the old winery - a lovely old building with tiles on the front.  This is called Azulezos - an old Moorish custom and adopted by Portuguese Spain and Holland.

Continued 10 km out to Setubal where we had to pass fish markets and boats to reach a lovely camping area.  It is right on the Río Sado.  All night we could hear the big boats going up and down.  Setúbal is the third largest port and is quite busy.  Right above the camp, St Philip's castle looks down upon the Bay.  Sandra and John went for a walk along the wharf to find milk and some green veggies and had a hilarious time with the little shopkeepers.  We are used to shopping in super Mercado's.  Had tea and settled early as we were tired.  Then we had a little excitement.  The warden and another man disturbed us chasing a rat around the van with a broom.

 

Coimbra to Setubal, Portugal

Saint Jean De Luz to Portugal

Saturday 7th November, 1981                       cold but sunny

Decided to stay here for the weekend, even though Spain is only 12 km away.  Did some hand washing this a.m.  The sun is shining so could dry - haven't found a laundromat for many miles.  We are in Basque country.  People are darker and speak French with a different accent.  Walked 2 km into town in the sunshine.  Left our gypsy van with the washing basking in the sun.  We are the only ones here - the Dutch van slipped out this morning towards Spain.  A lovely town with a fishing port in one section and the bay in another, narrow old streets run between the two.  Over the railway line a new area with apartments, houses and supermarkets.  Walked around then lunched in the bay.  Basque or Gulf of Gasgoyne.  Then walked home - washed hair, played cards and settled for night.

When Sandra and I were strolling down to meet the boys a horrible man threw a punch at my stomach.  Luckily I stepped back.  I think he was drunk.

St Jean de Luz is a fishing village dating back to the 10th century.  A great historical event took place in 1660 when Louis XIV married the Infanta of Spain Marie Therese.  The church door where they entered was bricked up and has never been opened since.  The church is the most beautiful I have seen, it is both Romanesque and Gothic.  There are no pillars and a three tiered gallery -  for men only - runs around the church - this is a Basque custom.  The monumental altar place is an 18th century work by Marten de Bidache.  We decided to go to the 11 a.m. Mass on Sunday when this lady told us the singing was in Basque.  And it was beautiful.  They had a mass books with one page in French and the other in Basque.

Sunday 8th November , 1981             misty and fine

St Jean de Luz is Basque country and the people are so friendly.  We went to lunch at this beautiful little restaurant in town.  Le Kaiku. It was so friendly.  We had a little time to order and halfway through, this gentleman on the next table spoke to us - he spoke some English and was helpful telling the kids which sweets were best.

Le Kaiku restaurant, Saint Jean de Luz, France

We had a leisurely three hour lunch - came out to sun shine then walked home and took the car for a drive to Biarritz - casino land.  We are off to Spain tomorrow.  Ravel the composer of my favourite Bolero was born at Cibourie 1 kilometre from St Jean de Luz.

Monday 9th November, 1981              foggy then fine

Breakfasted and on the road again  - the 12 km into Spain.  I was apprehensive about Spain expecting Zorro to meet us at the border, then the villains to be all around us, but the Spanish are human.  The same the world over.  The border officials waved us through and on towards San Sebastian where we drove around and around to find a park and American Express -which had closed.  So to a bank for money.

The locals park anywhere and anyhow but John keeps within our traffic rules.  Parked outside a market so whilst our weeks washing was cleaned - the market called Sandra, John and the kids - brought some rice, pork chops for $1.70 for 5 and some greens.  We think the rate is hundred and seven pesetas to our dollar

Had lunch in streets, but closed the blinds as everyone stopped and stared.  Then on to Igueldo camping area - it is quite a distance up the hill overlooking the Golfo de Vizcaya.  It was very misty but lovely view.  We showered, had to find the concierge to light the gas - we had a communication breakdown.  He came about six rubbing his hands together.  We thought he meant it was cold which it was and said "Si" so off he went and later we found he had turned the gas off.  So San and John missed out on a shower.  After tea we walked up to the bar for a drink.  There was a pinball machine so Sean had his first one dollar in many months.

Tuesday, 10th November, 1981                misty and frosty

Awoke to icycles on the ground, flushed cheeks and jumpy bodies - soon the blood raced & we were ready to be on the road again.  It’s like the 6 a.m. winter Wagga mornings.  You have to keep the body moving to keep warm.  Anyway soon we were on our way down the hill to San Sebastian before we froze.  A beautiful scene seawards and to the Vale but the mist covered most of it.  Travelled on a not too bad road to a Valley where we were held up by an accident.  The police were there with their guns over their shoulders - it was funny as each car or truck pulled up they strolled up to see the cause, then just sat and looked.  We were there for about three quarters of an hour and off we went for awhile with all the traffic passing us and each other.  We came to a place in this lovely valley just rising, when we looked out and saw all these trucks winding and groaning up a Road.  So we pulled in and had lunch, no bread but corn and eggs - good too.  Then up we went - a lovely clear road and the scenery was out of this world.  We climbed to 617 m and on to Pamplona were St Ignatius Loyola was born and began the Jesuit order.  We came along the Autopista for 19 km - cost us 70 pesetas.  We only stayed in the town for awhile walked along part of the way the bulls run, had a coffee, and decided to get on the road again as there was no camping area.  We could have stayed outside the town Hall but it was in a cold Square.  We had lots of laughs at the drivers.  Outside the tourism office we saw a car clip another, have a look and then drive off.  They park anywhere. We were hemmed in with a double parked car - so these two fellows just pushed the little car in front of us out of the way and we took off towards Zaragoza.

Through small villages the countryside changes - from green paddocks at the seaside and lush hill side in the valley, we now have burnt dry countryside very evident of the drought Spain is experiencing.  Past dry arid villages where there is not a blade of grass - villages built into sandstone hills very dry and unpleasant.  We knew we couldn't reach a camp tonight, so Sandra asked an ambulance station on the highway if we can stay, so here we are snug beside a lovely Park behind the Red Cross station.

Wednesday, 11th November, 1981           Armistice Day                       Frost and sunny

Have you ever awoken to find yourself in an icebox - well we did this morning.  The usual condensation was iced up all over the windows forming Christmas patterns.  Outside was white with frost - definitely made us frisky, we had a good nights sleep behind the Red Cross station, heard a siren but must have fallen asleep before action.

We were off after the Sun and warmed the engine.  We pushed the car into the sun and Sandra popping out of the van quickly, fell and skinned her chin, hand and knee.  This worker arrived on his motorbike - we never did find out if he was saying we shouldn't be there or the Red Cross would fix any abrasions.  We are now in Spain the land of olives.  We skirted Zaragoza and headed for Madrid about 350 km away decided whilst conditions were good, to try and make it, as there were no camps and we were screaming for running water. We came across a Hyper Mercado so stopped, filled the larder with Spanish foods - some things are very cheap but others as dear as home.  Most foods are cheap.  After this the landscape changed - barren and dry, no greenery.  Homes made from sandstone into sandstone hills real Zorro country.  I think the good Lord ran out of trees when he made this plateau.  From there into Madrid the land was the same - olive trees dead, so much rock in the soil - hard to imagine how they make a living.  Saw men on donkeys along the road side and some villages so high in the hills - donkeys were their only mode of transport.

At one area we saw this lavado - a public wash house.  The women beating their clothes and long pants hung out over rocks.  Here too the women help in the fields - dad on the cart full of ? and mum walking out front of horse's head.  Every now and again a huge pensioner Hostel would appear.  Gardens, petrol all a traveller would need then past them into the dry barren land.  As we chugged towards Madrid two things brightened our viewing.  A large Michelin Man waving stood on a hill every 50 km or so and a big black Bull advertising Osborne Sherry and whisky - so we became quite fond of Mitch and Ossie.  About 8:30 p.m. we pulled into the camping area in Madrid - good work John - tired, dirty and hungry.  First shower then tea then bed.  A few Australians and Americans here.  Sean found and brought a bottle of white wine call Romeral founded in 1881.

Thursday, 12th November, 1981               cold then fine  2°-15°

Awoke at 8:15 a.m. after a good sleep.  Decided I would stay at home whilst the others go into Madrid.  Need to refuel every now and then.  Washed, wrote up diary, found peanut butter, don't know if we can eat it yet - with the poison oil scare.

Some strange and interesting people we meet at camping areas but the van beside us here at Madrid is best.  A monkey act called "Superman attraction" and by the noises coming from van they are finding it hard to emulate Superman. The family arrived home with lots of letters from home, so I settled down to read.  Four from Karen, one each from Bev, Pam Mann, Gwen and Monty.  All good and funny news - washing dry and aired. 

We then went off to catch the metro at Canilljas for town.  Madrid has lovely wide streets - the buildings are lovely but the city is dirty and poor beggars on streets worry me.  There are hundreds of vendors selling anything from badges to Navidad lottery tickets.  And they are funny - someone whistles and they all take off except the ones with a licence we think and that isn't too many.  As soon as the Police move on back they come.  Little boys playing guitars and singing, the usual buskers and just beggars.  One good thing begging selling and smoking are forbidden in the underground so you can travel fairly freely.

We shopped at Plaza Mayor and walk to a restaurant for lunch.  It is cheaper to sit at a bar so we did and had a beautiful meal - chicken and salad.  John had Paella, Sean Spanish omelette and Rae good old Spanish sausages and eggs and chips.  We then went shopping again, San at last bought herself some perfume, for Karen's "opium" but just as dear here as home.

Off then to the Prado Museum - to view Goya, el Greco and Velasquez.  It is quite an experience to stand and view the priceless paintings.  John brought one of Velasquez and a “Murillo" print.  As we were shown the door at 4:45 we decided to head for home.  Tired and dirty as the temperature had risen slowly all day and we were hot and sticky.  Home to cook eggs for kids and salad for us.  Then bed.  John and Sean off to a bar with the boys next door.

Saturday 14th November, 1981                cold sunny fine

Awoke late, just after nine o'clock after a good sleep.  John and Sean going in for mail.  We are staying home to prepare for take off tomorrow.  Boys showing no signs of their late night with Peter, Jim and Morris, the Aussies next to us.  Washed, wrote letters, then this p.m. went for a drive to a jumbo market to refuel and restock.  Finished Sean's blanket so I am starting on one for John's back.  Lots of Aussies here but all are heading up north - holidays over -whilst we are going to choose to go Segovia, Salamanca and Portugal.

On the way into Madrid we bypassed Guadalajara where Sean says "Speedy González" lived and Alcala de Heneres where Sevante of Don Quixote fame was born.

Plaza Mayor - met Spanish-Australian family - son was in Australian Navy and had six weeks leave.  We had a drink with them in a bar.  Mum worked also to save to come home to visit -wasn't keen on Madrid they said.

Sunday 15th  November, 1981                       cold but fine

Slept in till 9:30 a.m.  Awoke to a crisp, brisk morning. The sun was shining.  Had breakfast and prepared to leave for Portugal.  On the way out John wanted Sean to film the Guardia Civil but Sean wouldn't - was frightened they might shoot and I didn't blame him.

Young fellows walking around with rifles on the ready - and a few kilometres on we ran into a demonstration - never seen so many people.  They must care enough to turn out in so many thousands.  When we came to a red light the riot squad were guarding the crowd and traffic and when they refused to clear the road - all cars started to blow their horns and John wanted San to film it - Sean being ejected from the front seat for refusing before - but Sandra wouldn’t either.  So we went on our way with a grumpy driver and two determined projector operators.  Detoured to Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caidos - a beautiful magnificent church built into a side of the mountain with a monstrous cross rising above the mountain.  Franco built it in memory of the fallen in the civil war.  You drive up a steep mountain - cost 300 pesetas to enter the grounds - then after parking, a walk past a restaurant up steps to the church.  It is the biggest in the world 2 feet longer than St Peter's in Rome.  The Spaniards just beat the Italians.  You enter a long hall built straight into the mountain, forming a huge hallway.  Beautifully carved statues, tapestries and the Stations of the Cross line the walls of perfectly formed arches.  We had lunch in the car park after hearing Mass at the altar which stands at the end of the huge hall.  Over the altar rises a huge dome and behind a wooden cross with the crucifixion, quite an experience to hear Mass there.  El Escorial is nearby.

Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caidos

Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caidos

Just as we finished lunch Australians, drove past blowing the horn.  A married couple and their young daughter who were here for two years.

On then to Segovia where the most outstanding feature first spied is the aqueduct built by the Romans. 

Segovia Aquaduct

As we pulled up in the park we were welcomed by a Jim bloke - every town has one.  We left the van in good hands and went for a walk behind the ancient walls, a lovely old church begun in 1525.  It was unusual in that all its altars were behind bars.

Entrance door to church

Outside we were inundated by beggars - it disturbs me - little tiny hands clutching at you for money.  It spoiled my walk.  Women with lace were everywhere but when you said no they left you alone.  We strolled back to the van and decided to head for Avila.

From the highway onto the Autopista one is not encouraged to speed, as before the toll gates for about 100 yards, is a cobbled brick road that shakes the daylight out of front and back seaters. We made a tape to send home for Christmas on the way along the Autopista - or should I say began.  Arrived in Avila about 6:30 p.m.  Sean has a migraine so has slept most of the way.  

Avila, Spain

We free camped in a hotel Park.  We went for a coffee in the restaurant, then blanket bathed. Then ate.  Avila is the highest town in Spain -1127 m above sea level - it is in the province of Castille.  St Theresa of the Carmelite order and St. John of the cross were born and lived here.  It is a very devout area so best to bed so we can stroll tomorrow.  It is a walled city and from here we can see the wall illuminated.  

Monday, 16th November, 1981                               brisk and cold but sunny

Seeing we were camped at " Los Quattro Postes " in Avilla, the highest town in Spain, we weren't as cold as in Zaragoza where we iced up.  Awoke to a brisk cold sunny day after a restless night.  We breakfasted on cereal and yogurt: the last of the toast and butter the night before.  The illuminations were turned off some time after midnight but are just as lovely in the mist with the sun glistening on the wall.

During the night a game of housie began and till all hours of the morning we heard uno quartro etc being called out.  The Spanish begin their evening when we are finishing ours.

Went into Avilla to the tourist office then took off on a walking tour of the town, a lovely place with a wall around the city and old and new buildings blending together.  Went up on wall took some photos could see our overnight camp quite well.

Shopped the market - Rae and I can't stand to smell of all the fish and meat exposed.  We brought bread, visited the cathedral - the Spanish for reasons no doubt obvious, have three altars behind bars, funny way to hear Mass.

Lunched outside town then on the road - bumpy road at that - to Salamanca.  At least 70 km of Highway 93 was bumpy.  Went through San Pedro do Arroya where we saw a telephone man walking along with his headphones connected to the overhead wires.  Further on, out of nowhere, washing hanging on a wire fence and every now and then shepherds attending their sheep. Near Charrererro we passed a car with Mickey Mouse ears and the tail!  Black bulls pranced in paddocks at Panaranda - countryside not unlike Wagga and the weather beautiful.  Arrived at the cobblestone streets of Salamanca.  We drove around but too uncomfortable to enjoy.  A lovely cathedral on the hill.  After a hassle we found the camp, showered and ate.  Beautiful!

Tuesday 17th November,1981           Salamanca camping Reijo           fine and sunny

This camp has been an experience - we showered in a four-star hotel and are sleeping in the caravan park next door.  Of course we haggle over prices and  Sean reckons the number of stars comes from the amount you see after the bill.  It is dear for the services.  We were escorted upstairs by the concierge in a little lift - shown into a private bathroom - it was nice to have room to oneself. So whilst Rae washed, I rinsed our undies in the hand basin.  One by one we all showered.  John took the kids over to watch TV whilst he showered.  A break for them they haven't seen TV since we left the hotel in London.

Decided we had seen enough of Salamanca and the next day headed for the border and Portugal.  Arrived at Cuidad Roderigo about 10:30 a.m. posted our last Spanish mail to Karen and Sandra and Bob Fellowes.  Sean bought some pan (bread) for lunch and off to the border.

Arrived at 12 midday Spanish time and 11 a.m. Portugal time.  The Portuguese officials were in 2 old caravans.  We had to hand in our passports at both the Spanish and Portuguese sides.

Saint Jean de Luz to Ciudad Rodrigo, Spain

Paris, France to Spain

Wednesday 28th of October               find and cold

We’re on the road again.  Up & ready to go-@#%# battery *** a quick walk around the park to find jumper leads, but no one awake to start motor.  After some delay, an English owner of leads came and put us on the road again.  Well nearly went too spa to fill water tank and ran into trouble with workers.  Poor John seems to meet all the obnoxious Frenchman.  Filled up eventually and were on way to Versailles to view the castle.

Versailes, France

Oh what a beauty - a former opulent home of Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI  15^th -  everything is gold leaf - the carvings on walls, doors and furniture are beautifully done and everything but everything is gold leaf - furniture and ceilings also.  The hall of mirrors is just so beautiful with huge chandeliers all the way down the hall and side carvings holding matching lamps.  Very beautiful.  John was not allowed in with his video so he went back to the van.

The kids became bored after hall of mirrors, so Sandra and I went on a conducted tour of Louis's quarters.

Lunch (the kids have it ready) and off we went towards Chartres.  A lovely old and new city. 

Chartres, France

We walked around the old area upstairs, through narrow dark streets up to a grand Cathedral with its two different styles of spires rising high above the city.  We saw some men playing a game like bowls in a little enclosure near the canal.

On then towards the camp.  Rain and darkness overtook us so we walked the  .6 km into a lovely little French village, St Loup. The further South we go the nicer the villages and agriculture is - more intense.  They seem to have more pride in their land.  The people are nicer and we met some friendly villagers.  There is a local pride in this village, good clean roads, lovely gardens and tidy houses, a change from the North.  We had a lovely meal and in bed at 7:30 p.m.

Thursday, 29th October, 1981                  rain

Awoke to a flat tyre and anger.  But the gentleman nearby restored John's faith in the French.  He came out and was so helpful.  Our very first flat so not bad in approximately 4200 miles.

After a delay - Sandra brought bread from visiting baker - we were on our way.  I think we were an enigma in the village but they were so nice - we will free park more if we could find such villages. As it was raining we only made one stop to fill up both larder and petrol tank.  We were nearly finished at the supermarket when we were chased down the aisle - the girl singing out Casse to the checkout girls and out - they were closing to lunch!  Even the garage closed so we stayed under there and had a lunch out of the rain.

We brought French bran - Sandra reckons it stronger as her bowel burbles.  I am afraid we will run out of bran and toilet paper so keep filling up on both.  On then through Blois, through Chateau de Bogarde, a lovely village.  Over the little Loire onto Contres where we saw our first French front gardens - the further South we go the neater the villages and better agriculture - corn and sugar beet are stored differently again to the north - in long wire containers.

Over the River Loire and into Noyes, then Chateauroux to the Piscine camping area

Very clean and oh for a hot shower.

Friday, 30th October, 1981                       raining

After a lovely lovely hot shower, we slept like logs and awoke refreshed even if it is still raining.  Decided to head for Limoges 125 km away - lovely countryside, wish it would stop raining - the villages looked so nice.  The scenery is lovely but we couldn't stop so headed on to Limoges. Naturally we arrived at siesta time, so found a park outside the tourist bureau and lunched - supplying all those who pass with amusement.  Still raining, so we visited Pastaud pottery - porcelain factory where all their articles are hand-painted - an art passed down for generations.  Loved the Limoges porcelain but too expensive.  Went for a walk through town - a lovely old shop Nouvelle's galleries.  John brought a French hat - with his Wellington's brought that night, he has been christened Farmer Jones. Off then to camp where we were entertained by some Romney Gypsies.  Sean was sitting in the front cabin when he yelled "look" this little old chooky had her head in like a chook - every time we opened the door she was there.  In the showers they were peeping through the holes without saying a word.  We were glad to say goodbye to there.

The kids and I went for a walk and found a Euro Marche - huge market. We had fun just walking and looking.  John brought his Wellingtons there for 19 francs three dollars 20 back to tea and bed - still raining.

Saturday, 31st October 1981                    raining

Up early and off to Limoges centre to do the laundry.  Had breakfast in the street again whilst people went to work - brightened their day.  Sean went off and found some crab meat for brekkie.  The French like croissants and jam for breakfasts so don't go in for savoury toast spreads.  We found Son de Ble (bran) at the Euro Marche-stocked up!

Then into the mountains towards Perigueux through Chalus-Jean de Bole, all lovely villages -passed some Chateau's in the hills on the way to Perigueux a very old village situated in the hills - this is foie gras country.  Chook farms - the highway with the big notice boards advertising "Foie Gras Champions".  We had lunch in Perigueux whilst we waited for shops to open.  Off then up the mountains to Les Eyzies an area where there are lots of prehistorical caves.  The countryside is beautiful and when you arrive at Les Eyzies it is unbelievable.  The ancient rock hangs over the roads and huge caves open their great caverns to the passing traffic.  It is truffle country here.  

Les Eyzies, France

The kids went through the museum in town whilst we walked the streets - above the main street a huge prehistoric man has been carved on a natural ledge that hovers above the street.  

Prehistoric Man, Les Eyzies, France

The camping area was closed so we were directed to a "camping de la ferme".  We climbed up this mountain to a lovely farm - decided to stay until the old lady told us the Gaz had run out and no hot water.  Well to see John and Sandra trying to get money back was hysterical - I had nearly cooked tea whilst the charade was being performed outside.  Result - money back and off down mountain to find St Cyprien camping area where a fellow Australian had told us he was heading - through bush down the valley and came to St Cyprien and a lovely little village.  A lovely camping area and hot hot water

We are entertaining Tricia and Phil to night.  We'll stay here for the weekend.

Sunday, 1st November 1981                     Sun- thank the Lord

Well we had a nice evening with the people from Canberra.  They are on the way again - have nine weeks.  We are spending today cleaning, airing, drying and generally feeling good with old sol overhead.  We'll go for a long walk to St Cyprien village later for an exercise.  Phil bought in a rare bottle of Philippe Rothschild red to take home.  No touch - the boys had to be content with French beer.  Slept in this morning, after John gave us a French brekkie in bed -coffee and croissants.  We rose alive and full of life and began to air, wash, clean the van and all inside.  The rows here are divided by six-foot hedges - all mattresses, sleeping bags, blankets were strung out for every little bit of Sunshine available.  We look like gypsies.  It's the first sunshine they have had here for three weeks and the first sunny day in France.

After lunch we played cards, wrote letters and at 4 p.m. walked the 1 1/2 kilometres into St Cyprien for stimulation and that's what we got.  I bought some ice creams and the old chooky took me for 10 francs.  They talk so fast and grab at your money.  I gave her 2 x 10 francs and the way she went on, I thought she didn't have change, so she took the centimes & continued jabbering so I gave her the five francs expecting my 10 francs back but no.  Well it's laughable now but I was indignant.  John came in to rescue me and she took his five francs then brought 2 x 10 francs out of the till so I whipped one back, John grabbed his and we took off.

The ice cream was nice anyway.  Walked home in the lovely sunlight.  Showered, played cards after tea and bed.

Had a long conversation with the only other occupant of the caravan park - an Englishman retired schoolteachers - he and his wife love travelling.  Come from Uttoxeter.

Monday, 2nd November, 1981                         fine and misty

Awoke to a beautiful day, misty in the valley but as it lifted it revealed a beautiful day. 

We were off fairly early and stopped at the caves " Grotte de fonte de Gareme" which were discovered in 1902 revealing prehistoric caves with carvings from 26,000 years ago.  

Prehistoric carvings

Whilst John, Sean and Rae went on a tour (which incidentally was given in French) Sandra and I met an Australian girl travelling with two Kiwis.  We basked in the sunlight.  They were disappointed in the tour, so we had morning tea and off towards Cahors.  

Had lunch at Carsac, after finding a shop open for baguettes - being all Saints Day it is a holiday.  Then on to Sarlat.  The countryside is beautiful in this region - the prettiest in France up-to-date.  We travelled on till we found this camping area at Caussades.  It is closed so we are outside the gates - it is very warm still.  Travelled all day in shorts and T-shirt.

Tasted foie gras tonight - none of us like it - love the truffles but too dear.  John paid eight francs, about $1.60 for 100gms.

John and Sean went into town after tea and found a Renault van with a bloke inside making and selling cheese pizzas - was really tasty - we were all in bed, so sat up and ate it.

Tuesday, 3rd November, 1981               misty sunny p.m.

Just as we were leaving our camp at Cassaudes, a gendarme arrived - very nice, but "on your way chum" impression.  We drove on through mist to Auch, stopped at a little village of Mauvezin and had lunch. The sun began to lift early p.m.  Arrived about 2 p.m. and went for a walk around this lovely old town of Auch, which is the heart of the Garonne Valley.  It has a lovely old cathedral - St Mary's was begun in the 15th century and completed with the 17th century classical facade.  This is where D'Artagnan of the Three Musketeers was born.  A statue of D’artagnan stands halfway up a long flight of stone steps.  In the old part there are streets so mediaeval and hotels are built over cave-like structures from another day.  This is Armagnac country.  John pulled up for some petrol and as the entry of petrol into tank must be slow to prevent overflow - he told the man " lento lento" - I think he confused the fellow as we were told to take off in French.

The choir of St Mary's Cathedral is unusual in that it is all carved wood - very nice.  We found the camp area - an island just out of town and a funny thing happened.  Mist was coming in so I went to shower first, was halfway through when the funny little pipe smoking "custodian" came in to clean the toilets and shower "ooh ooh Madame" he called "I won't be a moment" came my reply - I saw the mop going back and forward under my door which I couldn't shut -well next moment he opens the door and with the most lecherous grin "ooh Mademoiselle" he said, closed the door and opened it again the old devil - the pipe never left his teeth.  I can't say I have had my bottom pinched by a Frenchman but I have had a big leer.  We played cards after - a good laugh and slept well.

Wednesday, 4th November,1981                   Foggy a.m. lovely p.m.

Happy birthday Karen

We got up early and through thick fog prepared to be at poste to ring Karen by 9 a.m. Said goodbye to our pipe smoking lecherous pop eye and drove the short way into Centreville to rue Gambetta.  We had a little trouble at first making connection, but the lady was so helpful she put us through.  Of course we all had traumas after talking to Karen and Kevin for three minutes, so near and yet so far.  We brought a sultana gâteau (sweet large croissant) then went back to the van to celebrate Karen's birthday with a cup of coffee.  Sandra went off to buy beautiful plate she saw the day before, then we were on our way towards Lourdes.  Bye Auch.  Hello Pyrenees country

We had to use a deviation road to Tarbes and as we came around the hills windy road we could see the Pyrenees with snow-capped tops in the distance, through the light fog.  Was beautiful.  By the time we were in to Tarbes the fog had completely lifted and it was a lovely warm day.  Earlier, in sections we left the fog behind and it promised to be a splendid afternoon.

We arrived in Lourdes about 3 p.m. I just couldn't believe I was actually here.  The scene you have known all about since childhood has actually eventuated.  We parked and had lunch whilst we waited for the tourist bureau to open then drove down to the church.

It is beautifu l -so well done - we had a 15 minute film in English on the life of Bernadette then strolled down to the grotto where we discovered we needed a bottle for water.  Sandra went back whilst Rae and I brought and lit a candle for all of our relatives and friends.  Filled the bottle from the well then wandered down to baths.  The grotto is lovely - statue of a Lady of Lourdes with the spring below.  They have mass there during the day, but we were too early.  We climbed the stairs to the crypt a beautiful chapel the first opened for worshippers in 1866 in Bernadette's presence.  Its main corridor was cut out of the rock by her father and 25 men.  Really humbles you.  A few moments meditation and on our way to basilica of the Immaculate Conception.  This was built in response to Our Lady's request that the chapel be built here.  The windows retrace the history of Lourdes.  On the right, engraved in marble, is the pastoral document of Monsignor Laurent's Bishop of Tarbes authorising the miracle.

Lourdes, France (the Catholic Weekly)

On ground level is the rosary basilica, built in the form of a Greek cross - its chancel surrounded by 15 chapels consecrated to the 15 mysteries of the rosary.

We walked along the lovely drives lined with flower beds and down to the underground basilica of St Pius 10th where masses for the sick are held - it is enormous, capable of holding 30,000 pilgrims.  Along the hills is the way of the Cross.

We were tired by then so we went to find their camp area.  The four-star one we found was 50 francs and no real hot water, so we took off and found another one which was opened but apparently we were their first visitors for awhile and we caused a flurry of activity - hot water, clean toilets etc.  They were a nice young couple but we had to have our showers by 8 p.m. as they were afraid of frozen pipes in a.m.

Played cards and exhausted nestled into bed.

Thursday, 5th November, 1981

Awoke to a clear, crystal cold day - decided to attend Mass at 10:30 a.m. in the crypt, so we hustled along and arrived only five minutes late - even though the priest spoke French you could feel the compassion in him.  God, it would make you cry to see people coming in their wheelchairs, youngsters, incapacitated people in remission from cancer and all come with hope.  It was a lovely moving mass.  A Nun came down amongst us with communion and here we all shook hands in peace, unusual in Europe masses.  At least those we have been to.  After mass John, Sean and Rae went off to find the nearest funicular but it didn't go until 1:30 p.m.

Meanwhile Sandra and I had a lively walk into town, had a cup of coffee leisurely and wrote some cards.  We did see them pass by once, then walk to post and sent our mail off.  Just about to sit in the sun in peace and they found us - so we lunched and now here I sit in sunlight - Sandra busy in van whilst the three-game ones are 1000 m above us at Pic Du Jer, 

Pic du Jer, France

one of the mountains surrounding Lourdes.  John wanted to get some film on video but the mist is closing in.  The Pyrenees are now surrounded in a blue haze.  I watched the cable tram take them right up the mountain.  Sandra and I have a lovely time in the sunlight writing and reading.  We could hear in the distance the bells of Lourdes ringing out Ave Maria.  The crew came down a bit disappointed.  The mist had settled and you could barely make out the snow topped mountains of the Pyrenees.

We set off for Pau - 35 km away to find a camping area - the first one was revolting so we took off 16 km away towards the coast.  It was terrific - clean and as much hot water as you liked.  Camp Terrier had a bath, swimming pool.  We showered, ate then drove a couple of kilometres back to the Euro Marche - our favourite outing is walking through these huge shops just looking.  We usually have a funny experience.  Sean found a 1979 Paul Rites Bouilly? for 20 francs (it was on the list Phil had given him) so as they were going through - the checkout girl queried the price (she went on as if it had been charged) over went another girl to the wine Lane "yes it is right".

So John sent Sean back to get one more - reasoning that it must have been cheap.  Just a Sean picked one up saying "good wine this" the two attendants arrived and took the last bottle so they must think it was wrongly marked.

The toys are very cheap also in comparison to home

Friday, 6th November, 1981                  overcast and cold

Left Pau this morning for the coast.  We were amused in Pau - there must be a racetrack, as part of the highway has grandstands facing it.  Sandra said she hoped there wasn’t a race on then as we chugged along.

Stopped at Puyoo for morning tea, then picnic in the brush near the beach.  Yes you've guessed it - whilst we wait for tourist bureau to open.  Found the office at the beach where, even though it was cold and overcast, people were surfboard riding.  This was in Bayonne.  Its shoreline has very little sand - must have high seas as there are man-made bays and tonnes of rock along the foreshore making it difficult to reach the sea.

Headed then for St Jean de Luz where we knew a caravan park would be open - along the beautiful far shores of Biarritz where famous people have summer homes.  Rock man-made mariners house luxurious seafaring vehicles and gracious homes line the hills above.  On then to St Jean de Luz a lovely village 8 km away.  We found the camp - restocked the larder and settled in our gypsy style - washing airing etc camping Iratzia.

 

Paris to Saint Jean de Luz, France